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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:17 AM
  #16  
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Red, have you checked your timing?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:23 AM
  #17  
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I have not checked the timing... since its not adjustable by hand I never bothered to check it but I guess it can be a clue as to what the PCM is doing... I will check it tommorow and let you know... thanks for the tip.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 01:38 AM
  #18  
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
It is adjustable... In the line between the ignition module and the computer, (look 2 to 3 inches way from the wires coming out of the module) there is a little plug, unplug it, hook up a timing light, and it should be ~10btdc.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 05:35 AM
  #19  
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Red, are you also getting a check engine light?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 09:41 AM
  #20  
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From: Bend,OR
Originally Posted by R.Reinhardt
Well, I broke down and took it to the dealer.... Just to let you know... It was a faulty MAP sensor... $165 later...

Thanks for your help guys!!

Did you ask them were the map sensor was at. 165 , if you knew where that damn thing was at it would only have cost you $65 tops.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 09:51 AM
  #21  
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nope... no check engine light... no codes either but it seems to get worse when the A/C is on and the engine is really hot after running awhile...

I didn't know the timing was adjustable... the Chilton repair manual says it is not adjustable as it is computer controlled..."with the TFI-IV system no ignition timing adjustment is possible and none should be attempted" - Chilton Routine Maintenance

It does not appear to have an ignition module either, unless it is inside the distributor somehow but the "piggyback" style module is not there. There are just wires coming out of the distributor and there is a connection about 4 inches away.... but no module... its not at all how the Chilton book says it should be under the Electrical section.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:01 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
Did you ask them were the map sensor was at. 165 , if you knew where that damn thing was at it would only have cost you $65 tops.
Yeah, they showed me the old sensor and where it was located.. On this vehicle, it's just to the right of the left hood hinge. Stares you in the face because it's just jutting out of the compartment. But, for my money, they did check out the entire system and found that the EGR was even good... So, the money was worth it... Next time though, I'll change out the stuff myself. Sounds to me like I'll become one of those EFI parts junkies and collect all the little bits to replace first the next time this happens... I already have a spare 02 sensor.

Red, it's strange that your ignition isn't adjustable. If you have a distributor poking out of an engine, you'd think that it would be... If you're running hot when sitting, the first thing I would check is your cooling system... Like this van did before I changed out the radiator, water pump and thermostat (figured I'd do it when the radiator was off)... The radiator may look good, but you never know what's calcifing under the cap...

My Lincoln (Souped up 345HP Intek V-8) has an un-adjustable distribution system where there are two boxes located above the front camshaft that control the whole kit and caboodle...

Puzzling...
 

Last edited by R.Reinhardt; Jul 8, 2004 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:03 AM
  #23  
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From: Bend,OR
Red , what year is your bronco again. i believe your spout connector is located on the driverside firewall. because the newer broncos used a remote tfi module because of heat issues. if you can take a pic in that general area i might be able to point it out for you.

late
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:22 AM
  #24  
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I found it... it is mounted on the driverside fender under the hood spring... it has a heatsink and looks like it is made from aluminum.

My truck is a 92' Bronco with 192k miles...

The radiator is new, just replaced it last month and the heater core is also new, I don't think that there is anything wrong with the cooling system, temperature is within normal range at gauge. Took care of the electrolysis problem (hopefully) that ate my two year old radiator and heater core. (poor engine ground)

so now that I found the Ignition Module, how do I test it or do I just replace it and see what happens?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 06:34 PM
  #25  
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I really don't have a clue on how to test the module... You know there was a recall on that thing back in 2000. You may want to check with the dealer to see if your's had been changed...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 07:05 PM
  #26  
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well I already replaced it anyways, when I was I inspecting it I noticed that it had salvage yard paint, I think it had previously replaced by the original owner, guess he thought it would be cheaper that way.... I only paid $40.00 for it, made in the U.S.A by BWD... can't imagine how much he actually saved doing it that way, but oh well

still idles rough, so it wasnt that.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 08:41 AM
  #27  
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Just a Thank You!! I recently purchased a 1993 E-150 with a 351W, two days after I bought it we headed to Montana. It wasn't 100 miles before Chugga Chug Chug. I did the rotor,cap, wires, plugs, and yes the O2 sensor. Still having the same problem. The newest code said the EGR. I stumbled across your forum and the lights came on!! I am on my way today to purchase the MAP sensor. I will keep you posted on the results, but wanted to say Thank You for the great advise and help.
 
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