351W Chugga Chug Chug
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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I have not checked the timing... since its not adjustable by hand I never bothered to check it but I guess it can be a clue as to what the PCM is doing... I will check it tommorow and let you know... thanks for the tip.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
It is adjustable... In the line between the ignition module and the computer, (look 2 to 3 inches way from the wires coming out of the module) there is a little plug, unplug it, hook up a timing light, and it should be ~10btdc.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
Originally Posted by R.Reinhardt
Well, I broke down and took it to the dealer.... Just to let you know... It was a faulty MAP sensor... $165 later... 
Thanks for your help guys!!
Thanks for your help guys!!
Did you ask them were the map sensor was at. 165 , if you knew where that damn thing was at it would only have cost you $65 tops.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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nope... no check engine light... no codes either but it seems to get worse when the A/C is on and the engine is really hot after running awhile...
I didn't know the timing was adjustable... the Chilton repair manual says it is not adjustable as it is computer controlled..."with the TFI-IV system no ignition timing adjustment is possible and none should be attempted" - Chilton Routine Maintenance
It does not appear to have an ignition module either, unless it is inside the distributor somehow but the "piggyback" style module is not there. There are just wires coming out of the distributor and there is a connection about 4 inches away.... but no module... its not at all how the Chilton book says it should be under the Electrical section.
I didn't know the timing was adjustable... the Chilton repair manual says it is not adjustable as it is computer controlled..."with the TFI-IV system no ignition timing adjustment is possible and none should be attempted" - Chilton Routine Maintenance
It does not appear to have an ignition module either, unless it is inside the distributor somehow but the "piggyback" style module is not there. There are just wires coming out of the distributor and there is a connection about 4 inches away.... but no module... its not at all how the Chilton book says it should be under the Electrical section.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
Did you ask them were the map sensor was at. 165 , if you knew where that damn thing was at it would only have cost you $65 tops.
Red, it's strange that your ignition isn't adjustable. If you have a distributor poking out of an engine, you'd think that it would be... If you're running hot when sitting, the first thing I would check is your cooling system... Like this van did before I changed out the radiator, water pump and thermostat (figured I'd do it when the radiator was off)... The radiator may look good, but you never know what's calcifing under the cap...
My Lincoln (Souped up 345HP Intek V-8) has an un-adjustable distribution system where there are two boxes located above the front camshaft that control the whole kit and caboodle...
Puzzling...
Last edited by R.Reinhardt; Jul 8, 2004 at 10:05 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
Red , what year is your bronco again. i believe your spout connector is located on the driverside firewall. because the newer broncos used a remote tfi module because of heat issues. if you can take a pic in that general area i might be able to point it out for you.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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I found it... it is mounted on the driverside fender under the hood spring... it has a heatsink and looks like it is made from aluminum.
My truck is a 92' Bronco with 192k miles...
The radiator is new, just replaced it last month and the heater core is also new, I don't think that there is anything wrong with the cooling system, temperature is within normal range at gauge. Took care of the electrolysis problem (hopefully) that ate my two year old radiator and heater core. (poor engine ground)
so now that I found the Ignition Module, how do I test it or do I just replace it and see what happens?
My truck is a 92' Bronco with 192k miles...
The radiator is new, just replaced it last month and the heater core is also new, I don't think that there is anything wrong with the cooling system, temperature is within normal range at gauge. Took care of the electrolysis problem (hopefully) that ate my two year old radiator and heater core. (poor engine ground)
so now that I found the Ignition Module, how do I test it or do I just replace it and see what happens?
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well I already replaced it anyways, when I was I inspecting it I noticed that it had salvage yard paint, I think it had previously replaced by the original owner, guess he thought it would be cheaper that way.... I only paid $40.00 for it, made in the U.S.A by BWD... can't imagine how much he actually saved doing it that way, but oh well
still idles rough, so it wasnt that.
still idles rough, so it wasnt that.
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Just a Thank You!! I recently purchased a 1993 E-150 with a 351W, two days after I bought it we headed to Montana. It wasn't 100 miles before Chugga Chug Chug. I did the rotor,cap, wires, plugs, and yes the O2 sensor. Still having the same problem. The newest code said the EGR. I stumbled across your forum and the lights came on!! I am on my way today to purchase the MAP sensor. I will keep you posted on the results, but wanted to say Thank You for the great advise and help.
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