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I have a 351W in a 1991 Ford E-150 Conversion Van...
This is what it does... Starts fine, runs cold like being choked, then as it warms up, it starts hesitating until the hesitations get worse then the check engine light comes on, where I promptly turn off and restart the engine which clears up the engine light. Then, the whole process starts all over again...
It idles horribly and goes from a stall to about 2,000rpm.
It has a new coil, distributor, computer and o2 sensor...
Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I should look for?
We have a 1987 E-150 that does the same damn thing but its got the 300 I 6 in it and the motor was just rebuilt by me and still does the same crap. I think it may have something to do with the idle control or the fuel pressure regulator cus I have replaced the norms also. I unplug a vacuum hose off of the intake manifold and it runs fine as can be, once I hook the hose back up it idles up and down till it dies and does this a stop lights also. So I left the damn vacuum hose off cus it hasn't run that good since we bought it, You wouldn't even notice it was off it runs so good, like it should lol, Funny ha, I think soo, But I would like to know whats making it do this .
first get the codes read. your haynes manual will tel you how or go by a parts store they should do it for free. your tps, aic valve, egr, lots of possibilites.
Well, you see, I live in this po-dunk town that really doesn't have anyone with the proper equipment.... Except the Ford dealer and maybe this guy I know who works for Panoz...
I purchased an Actron code reader from an auto parts store and when I plugged it up, it fried the computer... So, I'm hesitant to use it again...
I know it's not the O2 Sensor, or the idle control... When I had a problem with this about 10 years ago, it was still under warranty and the dealer replaced three sensors... One was the O2... What were the other three? Any ideas? Apparently replacing these three are real common...
Not the plugs, computer, wiring, timing (10degrees BTDC with the thingie unplugged) cap, rotor, distributor, fuel pumps, fuel filters...
Sorry, I'm at a loss...
Thanks for the suggestion though... Oh, and Dave? I got your email but I'm too new in the forums here to email you back... Yes, it's nice to see another one of us around...
Last edited by R.Reinhardt; Jul 6, 2004 at 08:26 PM.
that damn sensor has caused more headaches because its easily missed and when people pull codes they replace what the code read. not knowing that the code reader is just telling you that your problem is causing other things to act up. just because it says bad egr probably is something else all together. this is why its so spendy to trouble shoot efi motors.
dont get so carried away there . see your already getting the efi parts bug. its ok to start with the most common things. tune up stuff, fuel system stuff like filter, but once you replace that map sensor you should be good for awhile. and any future codes might be related to something else. keep up in here and you will learn alot. there are other sites that cover just broncos as well. might check them out for more info.
Oh, I'm not getting carried away... I've already ruled out all other parts... The MAP sensor is most likely the culprit considering it's the only thing that hasn't been replaced...
Haynes doesn't cover MAP sensor replacement, but does cover the checking of the EGR valve and other components... The EGR checks out just fine and considering it was replaced about 13,000 miles ago, it should be.
Thanks for the tips! (Now, where's that sensor located again???) hehe...
I am going through something similar in my 92' Bronco but it isn't as bad as you describe... mine idles rough and has trouble with initial acceleration, runs sluggish uphill too. I checked the vacuum pressure on the intake manifold and it reads 14 in.hg. and think I have a vacuum leak... does this mean that my MAP sensor is good as it doesn't stall?
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