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Have you noticed any coolant leaking from the truck like some of the others using this tuner?
Macvtt is the only 1704 user that has seen a coolant leak.
Some earlier stock calibrations had this problem stock.
By any stretch, I'm going to keep up with him on it and find out his stock cal information and take a good look at his stock file vs others. This is an issue that WILL be resolved. I'm willing to bet it's one of the stock flashes that had issues. (You would not believe how many stock files has serious problems) There are a couple ways to address this.
Macvtt.....(and only you, please), PM me with your contact info and I will call you 1st thing Monday morning.
If you are unable to PM, let me know and I will contact you.
Please keep this focused on the Superchips Microtuner.
Ken mentions here that this thread is centered around the Superchips Microtuner.
To elaborate on this, we are talking about the Superchips, Inc part #1704 specifically. Look on the back and make sure the sticker says "1704".
Superchips Custom Tuning (SCT) also has tuning for the 6.0L diesel.
I am NOT sure if it is in a tuner at this time, though.
Superchips Inc. and SCT are two separate companies.
They do have a relationship and share technology/information with each other and this works out very well for both.
This is just an FYI for those that were were unlear on this matter. =o)
Correct. I know all about them (been in touch several times). Currently, I believe you have to send them your 6.0L PCM for them to flash it. I guess my point was this issue isn't isolated to SCMT 1704's and the coolant issue should not be used to point to a SCMT problem. Its happened in a few rare cases with other companies as well, including the companies that make the external fueling boxes. Generally, they didn't see it until their products were out in the field in large numbers because it just isn't common. I know someone who's done PSI tests in the cylinders of vehicles where this happens.
From: Sparks Nevada Where men are men and the sheep are nervous!
How Long???
Originally Posted by Uncle Buck
Nowhere in all the info on the new tuner that I have read does it say how long it takes to change from one power setting to another. Just want to know. I have one on order. Please Mr. postman. Bring me a tune.er that is. Buck
How long does it take to change from one level to another? Please.
Thanks Tim. looks like Vic has his email turned off, which I can understand.
Here is an update: Last night I hosed off all the coolant on the truck so it would be dry this morning. Started it this morning and let it idlefor a while........no coolant.
I took it for a short spin and nailed it two times 1st 2nd 3rd gear then stopped. Sure enough there was coolant that had leaked or sprayed down on the front of the front axle, right on the drivers side pumpkin. I looked all around and still could not see where it was coming from. Then I cleaned it off again and took another ride, but this time I drove like a regular person and just cruised around. Came back and there was nothing on the axle or anywhere I could see. I looked all around and it seems to be coming from the drivers side front area, but only seems to do it after hard running.. I will keep you posted.
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There have been a number of leaks over the past 6 months with the 6.0. All associated with bad clamps and lower radiator hoses, a gasket here and there. All show up with higher RPM situations. Have you tried going back stock and running the same test.
If a coolant system has a problem it will not matter, what you are running for aftermarket parts it still has a mechanical problem. Point is, it might not be the tuner, any time you stand on any motor (tuner installed or not) you add pressure to a coolant system, just from……the water flying through the system from the higher RPM.
Hence the "go back stock" and repeat the test. Start to eliminate the items you can.
Thanks Tim. looks like Vic has his email turned off, which I can understand.
Here is an update: Last night I hosed off all the coolant on the truck so it would be dry this morning. Started it this morning and let it idlefor a while........no coolant.
I took it for a short spin and nailed it two times 1st 2nd 3rd gear then stopped. Sure enough there was coolant that had leaked or sprayed down on the front of the front axle, right on the drivers side pumpkin. I looked all around and still could not see where it was coming from. Then I cleaned it off again and took another ride, but this time I drove like a regular person and just cruised around. Came back and there was nothing on the axle or anywhere I could see. I looked all around and it seems to be coming from the drivers side front area, but only seems to do it after hard running.. I will keep you posted.
I had coolant all over teh truck when i got it...ford didnt tighten the overflow tank cap but no leaks now, not even with the tuner. Vic, you guys did an absolutely WONDERFUL job with the programmer
There have been a number of leaks over the past 6 months with the 6.0. All associated with bad clamps and lower radiator hoses, a gasket here and there. All show up with higher RPM situations. Have you tried going back stock and running the same test.
If a coolant system has a problem it will not matter, what you are running for aftermarket parts it still has a mechanical problem. Point is, it might not be the tuner, any time you stand on any motor (tuner installed or not) you add pressure to a coolant system, just from……the water flying through the system from the higher RPM.
Hence the "go back stock" and repeat the test. Start to eliminate the items you can.
This is likely not a blown head gasket. I've blown those before with an excessive nitrous/fuel ratio and the leak doesn't go away.
It is a simple matter to leak test the system. Well, generally a simple matter. The easiest is to modify a radiator cap so you can attach a bicycle tire pump and pressurize the system. Easy with the older cars when the radiator cap was actually on the radiator. Another option is to get a hose splice kit, modify the splice by drilling a hole and installing a rubber tire valve stem, and put the modified splice in line with a hose. Then attach the pump and pressurize. Using a manual bicycle tire pump makes it much easier to control the pressure you pump in. Do not exceed the max pressure the system can hold. Usually it is easy to find the leaks using this method. In one severe case, an old BMW, no external leaks were visible so I tried to start the car to let it warm up a bit. It turned out to have a leaking head gasket and the pressure from the cooling system bled into one of the engine cylinders and made it impossible for the starter to crank the engine over. After the pressure was released the engine would crank again.