Brian if you take it apart and clean it with Break Kleen, both parts, then re-assemble it will probably stop leaking be sure to TQ the nuts.

 

I will do that

BTW thanks you Eric my name is fixed!!

 

I have some good cleaner degreaser that I use prior to painting that gets stuff squeaky clean and doesn't leave anything behind. Many - but not all - of the brake cleaners will work just as well, but some of them have products inside to help quiet the brakes down and keep them from squealing - watch out for those.

You want the mating surfaces to be clean and free of any oily residue for the maximum mating grip.

As Tim says, torque the nuts, but don't over torque them - that makes it worse.

And finally, some posters have even applied some hair spay to help keep the two parts stuck together

clamp

 

I took the downtube out of the truck the last time mine blew off . While I had the tube out of the truck I used 600 grit sand paper to lightly sand the area were the blue tube and clamp go . I of course cleaned everything very very well before reinstalling them . There has not been a problem since . I figured the light sanding would help the clamped blue tube grip better .

 

Dear Mr. Lamkin,

Please excuse me while I kinda do a cross post here, for the simple fact that I feel many will benefit from the following.......

Oil Leaks Under the Hood

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To all those frustrated 6.0 PSD owners with oil leaks under the hood. Let me first say that I am not pleased with buying a vehicle from Detroit that loses so much value when you drive it off the lot, only to get into the warranty battle line at the dealerships. I have chose to buy a Ford as the least of the other evils, or at least until BMW makes something comparable. I own a 2004 F-250 6.0 PSD, and now have 21,000 miles on it. It has been in the shop 6 times for the SAME PROBLEM as well as others, for at least 27 days since June 2004. Please understand MY frustration, especially when you get stranded on Christmas Day, with your family, and a large trailer behind your truck, far away from home! I can only hope that these issues will help others get those leaks fixed on their trucks.

1. Yup, there is oil in the hot side turbo output towards the intercooler, occasionally causing the silicone rubber Blue Boost Tube 45 degree connector to blow off (6 TIMES FOR ME). This is a design flaw, and "you know where" will freeze over before Ford Engineers ever rectify this situation. Personally, I am looking at other aftermarket manufacturers that make similar interconnecting plumbing utilizing other materials. Heck, maybe a 3" RADIATOR HOSE is the answer. Ford says to replace with their part number 5C3Z-6C646-AA(with single alternator), and 4C3Z-6C646-CA(with dual alternators). Use P/N 5C3Z-6C646-BA to replace cold side pipe assembly. Broadcast Message 1329, TSB 04-20-9. (Did I mention how dog gone HOT the plumbing was during the repairs???)

2. Yup, your boost tube connection may be blowing off as in #1 above, but did you know that the "suspected oil" may be coming from another source??? Well, this is why it took my dealer so long to figure it out. The boost tube, as well as the turbo and other parts, were all covered in oil, and this made it virtually impossible to locate the leaks source with the dye test, and one of the reasons the boost tube kept blowing off. Situation was that the oil was actually being blown aftward from the front of the motor. DUH!!! Well, this turned out to be a leaky O-Ring on the Throttle Body. I can not find the TSB, but the dealer said that it was a known problem, and the part 3C3Z-9P457-AA Gasket was on Emergency Back Order(whatever). They indicated that when they went to get the part, they found out at that time that this is frequent problem. Just had to wait a week for the parts...Sorry, wish I had a Broadcast Message or TSB information on this one to share........

3. Okay, last oil leak(HOPEFULLY)! Oil appearing on BOTH SIDES of the motor, right around the glow plugs. Not every glow plug showed the presence of oil, but enough of them that it called for replacing BOTH Glow Plug Wiring Assemblies (left and right) P/N's 4C2Z-12A690-BA and 4C2Z-12A690-AB(not respectively). A possibly related Broadcast Message is 3285. No TSB found.

Dealer did indicate that CRUSHED, CHAFFED, SHORTED, or OTHERWISE DAMAGED WIRES can and will cause problem #3, as well as Injector Wiring Harness problems. These trucks have a ton of electronics and sensors, which means lots of wiring to be routed. It is when other devices or hardware are installed adjacent to these wires that they come into contact and may get damaged. It is VERY EASY to damage the MASSIVE amount of wire running through these trucks, and a rookie tech can cause a lot of it (just a warning - no experience here, yet...).

All in all, my dealer initally played dumb, then explained a lot more to me, only after I did my homework on the web. I also found a WHOLE BUNCH of other problems waiting to go wrong with this truck. At least I can carry the printout of these potential problems and their resolutions, my extended warranty, and my tools for the next time I get stranded due to some poorly designed aspect of the truck I DO love!!!

May I suggest that people do a little homework, so that when these things DO happen, you are better prepared to wrestle with your dealership, or simply effect the repair.

Remember to carry good pair of HEAT RATED GLOVES until FORD makes a better Boost Tube interconnection!!!!!!! That CAC fitting is BRUTAL!

 

Lummox, welcome to FTE. You should find good info here.

Your problem has been encountered before and I believe there is a replacement set of CAC hoses out from Ford.

Here is the service bulletin summary:

Intercooler Hose Blow-Off:
If one of the hot side intercooler hoses blow off it will cause the truck to exhibit a low power/low boost condition. To service, replace the hot side intercooler pipe/hose assembly. Clean the hose mating surfaces to ensure the hoses will stay in place. Seat the hoeses completely onto their mounting surfaces before tightening the clamps to 9 ft/lbs. Test drive the truck while monitoring the boost pressures, which should be 22-25 PSI. An overboost condition will cause the hose to blow off.
Single alternator trucks: 5C3Z-6C646-AA
Dual alternator trucks: 4C3Z-6C646-CA.
Broadcast Message 1099, SSM 17288.
On 2004 trucks that exhibit the cold side hose/pipe blowing off at the intake manifold, this may be due to the clamp being under torqued or damaged. Clean the outside of the intake manifold inlet and the inside of the hose or pipe. On trucks built from 12-15-03 to 4-1-04 replace the cold side pipe assembly with P/N 5C3Z-6C646-BA. On trucks built after 4-1-04 inspect the clamp, and if it is damaged, replace it with P/N 1C3Z-6K786-BA. Seat the hose/pipe onto the intake manifold and torque the clamp (6 ft/lbs 12-15-03 to 4-1-04; 9 ft/lbs after 4-1-04). Broadcast Message 1329, TSB 04-20-9.

On wire chafing:

Wire Chafing Issues:
A variety of driveability issues can arise from chafing/shorting wiring, such as crank/no-start, stall, running rough, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. The most common location for this is the valve cover/cover bolts near the FICM or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose. The harness should be rerouted and any chafe points insulated with rubber vacuum caps. Other chafe problems can occur where the sensor harnesses route around the valve covers, thermostat housing, idler pulleys, glow plug relay bracket, and near the accelerator pedal assembly (adjustable pedals), and also near the PCM by the battery and near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment. On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines. Broadcast Messages 1407 and 3077.

Your crankcase ventilation routes its output into the intake between the air filter and the turbo. Look in the ...Tech Folder.... above and read on rerouting the CCV tube.

 

Dear SBV45,

What you have given me is the same thing I posted earlier. I do appreciate the new CCV tube reroute info in the Tech Folder, just saw that yesterday. I have learned a lot roaming ALL OVER this site. Very informative.

Wire chafing - my TSB simply gave authorization to replace the Glow Plug Wiring Harnesses. I still don't understand why the Glow Plugs were leaking as a result of damaged wire? Unless grounding a wire caused continuous service, which ends up pushing more oil out? One would think seals were the culprit here, not wiring??? Must be a kit (seals and harnesses).

Intercooler Hose Blow-Off - well, my dealer will soon be taking a new Boost Tube Blue Duct off of my truck, and replacing it with a Banks component of superior quality (the rubber, not the fact that it's Banks), only after "scuffing it in" at the clamp points with sandpaper, and utilize the Banks clamps to secure the whole affair. My truck just came out of the dealership fleet service with a NEW blue tube installed, and the clamps are completely torqued down to where the springs are fully compressed. If it comes off again, the Banks stuff goes on, by the dealer, without voiding the warranty, end of story. My dealer is anxious to keep me out of his shop I'm sure, and I hate getting stranded!!! There are folks on other threads within this forum that claim "scuffing it in" at the clamp points, cleaning vigorously, and utilizing a gasket sealer seems to work for them with their 35lbs of boost. This may be my last resort, unless Ford is listening and ready to perform an Engineering Change Request.

Thanx for reading........

 

Well I do not think they will do an engineering change but I do think, your statement is sound advice...knowledge of the problems….so “when these things DO happen, you are better prepared to wrestle with your dealership, or simply effect the repair."

 

I just gave my soapbox to someone else. I'll sit down now...........

Respectfully.............

 

I have a 03. I have the alum tubes with the blue hoses.

My tube kept blowing off on the passenger side of the intercooler too.

I cleaned it, and it would blow several days later too. I noticed that when I tightened it extremely hard, the clamp would squeeze the blue rubber right off the tubes. Stupid smooth design and that stupid oil being routed back threw the intake makes things really bad. And I always was careful to get that little groove lined up with the rib on the blue rubber.

I ended up roughing up the alum tube (sandpaper), cutting more grooves in the tube with my dremel, then used that blue gasket maker. That finally stopped it. It's been maybe 25,000 miles since.

I talked to a Ford service guy. He told me they had lots of problems with people tubes blowing off, so then Ford went to a different design for 04 with black plastic. But these started blowing too, and when those blew, they would often hit the hood, denting it and knocking off paint. So they had to fix the hoods now with the plastic tube problem.

I agree with fixing this problem yourself.

What do the 05 tubes look like? Any problems with them, I hope not.

My tube blowing, really ticks me off, unless we're not talking about my truck and it's a hot girl doing it to me instead.

 

My compressor output hose (blue) came off and was shredded looking. Dealer replaced it with another blue one. Also replaced the metal tube, they say, it looked the same as the other to me. Before I took it in I cleaned it with brake clean and re assembled what was left and it worked.

Thanks guys.

 

Mine turbo hose has been on for 9 months now and 20,000 miles. The scuffing/cleaning/gasket sealer works!

 

Just had the intercooler hose blow off pulling up a Sunset Point here in AZ. Since i had this happen before, the loud boom didn't bother me. Once i got pulled over at a rest stop, i looked under the hood to find that the clamp had broke. Fortunatly there was a Ford dealer with in 20 miles. I limped there and had the fastest service call perfromed at a dealer ever. In and out in less than 30 minutes. The tech did inform me that he has seen a few of the clamps break like that. I hope it doesnt happen again.

Chris

 

Chris, you may find like I did that the hose gets really slick with oil and when boost gets up around 30+ pounds, it may blow off. If it does, just carry a 7/16" rachet wrench with you along with some brake parts cleaner, some sand paper and some sticky glue like copper kote. Once I cleaned the hose, roughed it up, and applied the Copper Cote, I had no more problems.

 

My 3/04 build F350 did the same thing yesterday. Going uphill pulling my 9K 5th in TH mode with my young kids in the car. I thought it was a tire blowout at first, but the loss of power and clouds of black exhaust told me. The clamp was no where to be seen. I limped to the dealer and the service advisor said he wanted to put in an "add-on" computer to monitor what was going on if it happened again. He thought it might be a boost issue. I'm sure it was under that load. I told him next time we can, but just to fix it this time. I'll have to apply the fixes in this thread when I get it back. I love this site. Everything you need to know about the 6.0L is here.