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Intercooler hose clamp

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Old Jun 25, 2004 | 09:24 PM
  #31  
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thanks Cowboy Brett. I found another post on here about the surging. seems could be a few things,,, it was actually doing it tonight while the truck was idleing in park,, sounded like it was going to stall and then came back,, did it about 4 times in a 5-10 min period and prior to it happening I had been in another location ideling for about 20 min and no problem,,
 
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 08:02 AM
  #32  
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Matt - there is a fix out for that... but it will require a reflash....

This particular symptom is why some have won their dsb's before the fix was in---- surging at idle is a definite safety issue.... imagine sitting at a red light and it surges such that it moves you out into the intersection !!!!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 09:18 AM
  #33  
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thanks , I was hoping to aviod the flash as the truck runs great otherwise and gets good MPG,,the last time I was talking to my SW he said some trucks have been taking well to the new flash and other have problems still but its definitly a safety issue as it did lunge me forward the other day but luckly no one was in front of me, Last night I left it ideling while running into a store and it was even doing it sitting there is park but was sounding like it was about to stall and then come back.,. did it about 3-4 time with in 10 minutes, I shut it off and restarted, drove home about a mile and let it idle again but did not do it. I've had the truck since march 5 and have over 9k miles on it and this just started last week. I was hoping it was more of the Wire Chafeing issue or the EGR valve as some other's stated. I'm going to talk to me SW and diesel tech to get there thoughts and bring all the info I've gotten from here with me,, thanks
 
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 07:20 AM
  #34  
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We'll its been over a week since I removed the intercooler to manifold tube and cleaned it. So far no more leaks where it connects to the intercooler but has been pulling back at the manifold, I am going to try some high temp silicone on the elbow and see if that helps, I noticed that (569104) posted that his dads 04 has aluminum tubing on both sides and his has the plastic like mine to the manifold. Does anyone know is there a replacement aluminum tube for this as mine only has the aluminum on the turbo to the intercooler and plastic from the intercooler to the manifold, If there is a replacement then I will not waste my time taking it off again and just let the dealer replace it,, thanks
 
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 08:05 AM
  #35  
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Has anyone had to remove the air filter box to get to the lower end connection of the intercooler tube as it leaves the intercooler on the driver side?

I can barely get my arm down there, much less have any working room to remove the lower end connection. Or am I approaching this thing from the wrong direction?

Regards.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:08 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by catherder
Has anyone had to remove the air filter box to get to the lower end connection of the intercooler tube as it leaves the intercooler on the driver side?

I can barely get my arm down there, much less have any working room to remove the lower end connection. Or am I approaching this thing from the wrong direction?

Regards.

I was able to remove the tube on mine without touching the Airbox. I did move the rubber vent tube out of the way though and then I used a long extension to loosen the clamp and then reached my arm down in front of the battery to pull it apart. I was tight getting in there and takeing it out but it can be done. I have had no more leaks since I cleaned mine,,
 
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:21 AM
  #37  
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From: Reidsville, NC
matt1751,

Thanks for the quick reply. I will give it a try. Fortunately, the clamp screw is pointed upward and is accessible from the top. Small wonders!

Regards.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 11:57 PM
  #38  
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Our Line Techs have learned to tighten the clamps with a torque wrench to the inch pound spec. stated. Many blew back off and after using a torque wrench they said it was a lot tighter than they were doing with a ratchet.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Oldfordtech
Our Line Techs have learned to tighten the clamps with a torque wrench to the inch pound spec. stated. Many blew back off and after using a torque wrench they said it was a lot tighter than they were doing with a ratchet.
What is the proper TQ on these
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 02:54 AM
  #40  
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by Tim Lamkin
What is the proper TQ on these
Tim,

From the FMC service manual:

Metal CAC Duct 9 lb-ft
Plastic CAC Duct 71 lb-in

Hope this helps
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 07:11 AM
  #41  
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It does...thanks
... anyone have the new part numbers for the "fixed" part.
Cannot find anyone that knows of it, still selling the blue hose
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 04:25 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by swunderle
hey guys so the blue hose connections having oil on them is normal? I use my truck for a daily driver and tow a small boat. both of the blue tubes appear to have oil seeping from the inside out. no oil consumption at all..
It is normal per the PSD Bible. A very small amount of oil can look like a lot. This comes from cylinder reversion waves (ever wonder how your gas car air cleaner got so greasy?) and the small amount of oil leaking from the turbo shaft which is normal.

Ford has a new hose from the turbo to the first pipe that helps a lot and like Tim said, clean with brake parts cleaner and I roughed up the very slick hose surface with emory cloth and applied K&W Copper Coat adhesive, let it dry and then put it back together and tightened until I got a slight bulge on both sides of the hose. I retightened again a day later and no more problem for 6,000 miles. My Predator makes 35 pounds of boost!

I am curious about the black plastic tubes I see in the photos. Mine is a 06-03 build date and my tubes are shiny aluminized steel.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 05:36 PM
  #43  
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From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by Choctaw Bob
It is normal per the PSD Bible. A very small amount of oil can look like a lot. This comes from cylinder reversion waves (ever wonder how your gas car air cleaner got so greasy?) and the small amount of oil leaking from the turbo shaft which is normal.

Ford has a new hose from the turbo to the first pipe that helps a lot and like Tim said, clean with brake parts cleaner and I roughed up the very slick hose surface with emory cloth and applied K&W Copper Coat adhesive, let it dry and then put it back together and tightened until I got a slight bulge on both sides of the hose. I retightened again a day later and no more problem for 6,000 miles. My Predator makes 35 pounds of boost!

I am curious about the black plastic tubes I see in the photos. Mine is a 06-03 build date and my tubes are shiny aluminized steel.
The black plastic tubes are an 04 thing...
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 06:29 PM
  #44  
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I blew the turbo to tube hose four times on this last trip.
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. did I mention it was real hot
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. did I tell you how hot it was
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. foot note it was un real how hot it was
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. words do not decribe how hot it was
By the time I got to OR the thing was 3 inches long...but still mde it.
Then all I could find is the blue ones....made it home with no problems with a new one.
What was weird the 04's on the lot in Canby...had the blue ones...ug...

I need a good one
 
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 06:53 PM
  #45  
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Choctaw Bob
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From: Dallas
Originally Posted by Tim Lamkin
I blew the turbo to tube hose four times on this last trip.
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. did I mention it was real hot
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. did I tell you how hot it was
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. foot note it was un real how hot it was
Stopped cut it stuffed it and drove it. words do not decribe how hot it was
By the time I got to OR the thing was 3 inches long...but still mde it.
Then all I could find is the blue ones....made it home with no problems with a new one.
What was weird the 04's on the lot in Canby...had the blue ones...ug...

I need a good one
My new one is blue also. It has a rib on the inside to match the groove on the pipe on one end and a groove to match the rib on the turbo outlet on the other. It has a VERY slick surface, so I roughed it up with emory cloth then cleaned it with brake cleaner. I added the adhesive to make it tacky and put it on. I've had no more trouble.

I bought some rubber gloves at Walmart and a set of rachet wrenches which helped but when I got back home I bought some Mechanix gloves which stay in the truck all the time. You are right, it is VERY HOT and the radiator shroud is very hard on the knees.
 

Last edited by Choctaw Bob; Jul 28, 2004 at 06:55 PM.
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