I don't know why slightly decreasing the valve lash should cause smoking. Yes intake bolts if too long could also contact pushrods. I haven't been able to remove pushrods without first removing the rocker shaft assembly. To do that is pretty simple, and most of the time involved is in resetting the valve lash. First back off all the rocker adjusters until pushrod is free and allow it to lie back against head. DON'T LET IT FALL INTO VALLEY. When all of the pushrods are freed remove bolts and two nuts from rocker stands. Reassemble in reverse, making sure that a lock washer is under each bolt/nut, and that a flat washer is under each lock washer that would directly contact the aluminum rocker stand. Do not overtighten. Form an idea of the torque required to remove bolts, and apply same torque upon insertion.
You can remove all the pushrods, but put them back in the same holes, using feel for their relocation into the lifters. This all should allow you to see or feel if bolts are projecting into pushrod space, check all push rods of that side for straightness, and examine valve ends of rockers for excess wear. However, with only 50,000 miles on the engine rocker wear at that point would be unusual.
The shaking of the engine and truck must be related to timing. If it were a major problem in engine assembly it seems to me that it would all have come apart by now.
After all of this it may be best to begin seeking out a good mechanic as 312 suggested earlier.

 

46y,i checked the head bolt and the intake bolt.the head bolt is 1/2 inch,and the intake is 2''.neither showed evidence of rubbing a push rod.that`s when i did something very stupid.i wanted to check my points gap to see if they might be the cause of the engine rocking back and forth.they were gapped at .019.that`s a little wide,from what i`ve read so i attempted to regap to .016(my first such attempt).when i turned it over i heard a large bang,and the engine would`nt start.that`s when i realized i had left the wrench on the crank''DOHH''.now when i turn the crank,the rotor doesn`t turn and it makes a grindind-clicking noise.the rotor does turn when you turn the engine over.thanks for your help.i will learn all about this truck,but i`m afraid it`s gonna be the hard way.i normally don`t make such stupid mistakes,but i was trying to hurry so i could help my wife get our three boys bathed and in the bed.anyway thanks again.from what i`ve read i think it`s the shearpin on the bottom of the distributor.does that sound right to you?how hard is that to repair?

 

Well I am not sure it is a shear pin. I thought it was just a pin. Easy fix if that is it, but you had better hope if it is the problem it does not drop off into the pan or valley when you withdraw the distributor. Once pulling the distributor you will have to go from scratch on the timing. Find someone who has been through it before to work with you.
Recheck the balancer bolt and make sure it hasn't been loosened. With your starter engaged and the end of the crank was pinned down, you may have damaged the starter drive or the ring gear. Do you have a shop manual or the book by Eichman?
If you don't you should order probably both.
Somewhere around you there is probably a club or group or guys with similar truck/car interests. They would be a great resource. Attend shows and events to make contacts.

 

After further thought I am sure it is not you distributor, but most likely either the starter, ring gear, or both. Also check for damage caused by the wrench in the area of water pump, fan and fan spacer.

 

46y,what is the ring gear?i turned the crank after it happened so i don`t think that`s it.the starter still turns the engine,and the distributor,but i don`t think it`s firing.the rotor turns when i use the starter,but it doesn`t when i turn it on the crank.it only makes that god awful noise when i turn it on the crank.it sounds like it`s coming from the bottom of the distributor.i don`t have the repair manuals you mentioned,but i do plan on getting them in the near future.i`ve been to several shows in the area,but haven`t found anyone who knows about y-blocks.i`m also new to this state,and don`t know to many people yet.for now i`ll have to rely on my friends here at fte.i really appreciate your help.

 

The ring gear fits around the flywheel, and is engaged by the starter motor.

 

thanks46,i`ll check that tonight after work.will i have to drop the transmission?

 

Remove the inspection pan from the bottom of the bell housing.

 

thanks 46y,i`ll give that a try..........wayne

 

46y,thank god,i got her running again.i pulled the bellhousing cover,and watched things while turning the engine over.the problem is a clutch mechanism that is straight in from the starter sprocket,its two wheels,on the same shaft,that engage when the starter sprocket engages.when the starter sprocket disengages this wheel disengages and spins the other direction.the problem is that it`s not kicking all the way out and the teeth are clicking together and making the noise i described earlier.is this the ring gear?how do i fix it?i had to use my remote starter to turn the engine and set the points,because the dist. still won`t turn on the crank,it only clicks.is this something that i need to fix imediately?i`m gonna put a petronix ignition on as soon as i can afford it.i`ll check those pushrods this weekend,as soon as i get up the nerve.i`m just a little gunshy right now.if i continue breaking things and having to fix them,i`ll eventually know what i`m doing.thanks for putting up with me,theres no way i could get through this without you.i`ll have to send you a fruit basket or something when this is all over with..........wayne

 

You may have lost me on this. First it sounds like the bendix drive on your starter has been messed up. That is the distal starter mechanism which allows your starter to engage and disengage to and from the ring gear. You can pull the starter and take it in to a starter/alternator repair shop to be checked out. How can you have started the engine without the starter? How can the engine run if the distributor isn't turning when the crank is turned?
When you were under the truck looking at the flywheel/ring gear, you should have been looking closely through at least one full revolution to see if there were any missing teeth, or damaged teeth.
What do you mean the "dist. still won't turn on the crank"?
I am going to let the reference to fruit basket pass.
As for the pushrods don't mess with them. It was just a shot in the dark anyway.
There still is the possibility that even though the engine showed little wear, and standard size pistons and rings were used, that number 4 cylinder had more wear than the others and it shows up in a little noise. Get a mechanic to make an evaluation. It may be time to stop chasing the ghost.

 

i`m still not sure that i know what the ring gear is.the flywheel looks great no missing or damaged teeth there or on the starter sprocket.when i turn the crank with my wrench,the motor turns over but the rotor isn`t moving and it makes the clicking noise(sounds like when you overwind a pocketwatch).the starter works fine.the rotor turns when i bump the starter.i had to use that method to set my points instead of wrenching on the crank like i normally do when turning the motor.the gears that i`m talking about are on the very end of the starter shaft out past the sprocket,they have tiny teeth on one flat face(like the flat face of a coin).when you bump the starter and the shaft engages these two gears go together ,the teeth catch and they turn together.when the shaft pulls back,these gears spin in different directions until the starter stops spinning.i hope your following me,i`m not sure that i understand what i`m talking about now.those two small gears aren`t fully engaging when you turn the engine on the crank.the teeth are clicking over one another .do you know what i`m talking about now?

 

This is a test. Have sent 2 posts that have not made it.

 

This is a test, have sent 3 posts that have not made it thru.

 

The mechanisim you are referring to on the end of the starter is like I said the Bendix unit.
The ring gear is like I said the 143 or so toothed gear around the flywheel. If the crank turns and the distributor doesn't the motor cannot run. The distributor turns 1/2 as fast as the crankshaft. I am out. Best of luck.