It would seem logical....though changing oil in my 6.0 leaves me struggling to divide the last gallon in half! If they sell 1 gallon bottles, we would have to buy two for our car if we couldn't find a single quart bottle. Sound marketing trickery! If the SUV oil will run OK in gas engines, I can run it in my Mustang Convert. How many kinds of oil do I have in the garage? Mower, edger, weed eater, chainsaw, Generator, Honda, Mustang, PSD. Maybe the SUV will run in all except the 2-strokes!

 

ryan you are saying mobile 1 synthetec .I think ill try it . I have benn running rotella t for the last 10, 000 miles, Maybe will see a differance.

 

If I get a 55-gal drum do I need to put up some type of Environmental/HAZMAT signs, etc?

 

Since it's a synthetic, it probably isn't a hydrocarbon, thus not combustable. You probably would raise an eyebrow somewhere if you were flushing the used oil down a toilet!

 

I just bought my first diesel and approching the first oil change. I'm trying to decide what is best for the engine. I do not plan any extended oil changes. Rotella has no foaming agents. I've always used synthetics and engine wear has been exceptional. Any reccomendations out there with facts?

 

Well, as soon as I can find the Mobil 1 Delvac or Truck and SUV I am going to put that in at the first oil change along with an oil bypass filter.

 

The full synthetic that Amsoil sells for diesel engines is NOT API certified. Ford requires in order to maintain warranty that you use the proper API certified oil, not an oil that meets the requirements but lacks certification.

I don't know where you got your information, but it is not accurate. Rotella T is one of the leading oils in the industry for diesels and has anti-foaming agents. You wouldn't see it sitting in so many diesel shops if it didn't have anti-foaming agents.

I also do not believe that Pennzoil bottles Motorcraft oils.

 

I use Mobil Delvac 1 5W40. The engine is much quieter, better mileage, not as prone to leak, superior lubrication and wear.

 

I need a bypass filter. Which is the best one that uses real filters and not toilet paper, kotex,paper towels and such?

 

Check out oil guard's. They use a weave filter element. http://oilguard.com/side_menu/bypass...ter_design.php

 

According to the Ford engineer I spoke with, Motorcraft is bottled by Conoco (owned by Phillips).

 

Not true. The API rating that Rotella is certified under includes anti-foaming agents in the additive package.

 

Thanks Army! That is exactly what I'm looking for.

 

I'm not a fan of Rotella(I just don't like the sound of the name) but Rotella is a proven diesel oil, probably the best seller of all. I haven't heard any complaints. Shell also makes a Synthetic Rotella T which was my second choice if I couldn't find Mobil D-1.

 

I guess Amsoil is lying when they print it on both the 3000 Series Synthetic and the Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine oil bottles.
And they state it on their website.
I wonder if the API is after them?

As always, oil discussions start wars. Do your own research and the decision will be yours. Lots of good oils out there, and, NO they are not all made from the same "base stocks". This is why the Big MFG's spend MILLIONS of $ on research looking for the right additive packages and refining to their own standards.
Chevron Delo 400 is refined to a point where they could legally call it call it "Synthetic" but they don't.
Real synthetics are obviously "synthesized" polymers and not directly from crude.
Do your own research, pick one of the top oils whether crude based or synthetic, with CH-4 or better yet, CI-4 and you will be fine. Some people have had issues with lighter weight oils and romping.
If you do go for the long oil change, use synthetics.
Crude based oils seem to have problems in the 6.0's with shearing that may reduce viscosity and they may not last as long as a synthetic.

So what do I run? My 2000 X 7.3 had 72000 on it with the 3000 Series Amsoil before the Sunbird turned in front of it.
Never had an oil leak or issues with it.
My '04 X is now on a steady diet of Amsoil HDD&Marine 15w40 at 10000 miles. Previously it was on Chevron Delo 400 (Same thing my neighbor uses in all of his gravel trucks).
And my mileage has gone up 1mpg since the change.
Could be break-in, could be oil.. Who knows...
Oil changes will still be no longer than 5000mi.
It seems like the 6.0's are murder on oil and long term data is not as plentiful as the 7.3s yet.
Yeah, synthetics cost more, but it will be nice to know that I did everything I could to make the engine last 'till 300kmiles!
Hopefully I won't have any more run-ins with cars turning in front of me......
Synthetics are relatively cheap insurance for engine life especially when most of us paid $40-50k for our rides.
Now, if we could just get diesel prices down in California...... $2.45/gal this weekend!!!!!
In Oregon last Tuesday, I paid $2.02!!

L8R

Blake