I have heard that you can make an adjustable idle control switch that wires into the throtle position sensor. Does anybody have the parts list and the intructions for doing this?

 

CHECK ford-trucks.COM A lot of the guys there have made their own idle controllers and have parts lists and instructions.

 

Get a 5k ohm linear potentiomer with integrated switch form MOUSER part # 31VM305 for $1.72 Also get 5 3M connectors part # 517-560 for 12 cents each.

Get one each of the following 1/4 watt (1/2 watt will do) resistors from either Mouser or radio shack: 2.7k, 3.3k, 3.9k, and 4.7k ohm. You will only use one of these, but you will have to pick the one you like best.

Take your "go" pedal out of the truck. It takes one or two screws and it unplugs.

Get some 16 or 18 gauge stranded wire to hook everything up.

Using the 3M tap connectors, parallel the switch on the pot to the red wire with yellow stripe and the red wire with green stripe. It doesn't matter which terminal on the switch goes to which wire. It's only a switch. By the way, this is called the TVS, throttle validation switch.

Now, using the 3M connectors again, tap into the grey wire with the white stripe and hook it to the center connector of the potentiomer.

With another 3M connector, hook the brown wire with a white stripe to one end of a resistor. Hook the other end of the resistor to the left side of the potentiomer, looking from the shaft side. This is called the TPS Throttle Position Sensor.

By the way, all of these connections are done ABOVE the "go" pedal connector, not on the pedal. I guess you could, but then you can never remove the pedal again.

Put the pedal back in. That's it.

Copied and pasted this from an earlier thread that I used to build my controller. You do not have to remove the pedal assembly. You can unplug the connector to gain enough slack to connect the splices. Also, the brown wire w/ white stripe is on the left side of the pot when the terminals are facing up. Got my parts from Radio Shack. The switch has to purchased separately and is easily attached to the potentiometer. Sorry, I can't give you the part #'s, I don't have the packages anymore.

 

thanks that is just what i needed. Did it work well for you?

 

Works fine. I do have to turn the **** almost a half-turn to get an increase in speed. Could just be the sensitivity of the potentiometer. I used the 3.9k resistor. I am able to increase speed from idle to just over 2000 rpms. I have only been using it lately on cold mornings to help warm up the engine.

 

Anyone have photos or a diagram/drawing of this high idle switch? Are there any other reliable aftermarket switches that are fairly simple to install? Anything I make will probably short something out. Thanks.

 

Concept Technology makes an ofter market controller model number CTI205 I think it retails for around $170

 

Yes they do, but if you build the one in mueckster's post you will be building one almost identical to the CTI idle controller for a total of about $15. That is including shipping if you order the switch from Mouser.

It's really not complicated at all. Once you get under there and see the wiring it'll make perfect sense.

here are some pictures of one guy's installation, and here are some more.

Here is the text of the original post.

 

that is correct. I am going to build one in the next couple of days

 

Oops, the third link didn't work right. Type in $10 AIC, or dixie diesel in the search engine and it'll pop right up.

 

I bought all the parts needed to make this AIC, however, I can't quite figure out the wires I have to tap in to.

I have a 97 F250 PSD, and on the left side of the accelerator pedal there is a plug with two wires (orange or red with a white stripe, and solid brown).

Towards the top there is another plug with three wires (black w/ white stripe, yellow w/white stripe, and brown w/ white stripe). At least that's what they look like under the dark shadows of my dash.

These colors don't seem to match up with the colors given in the directions above. I got really confused when I saw someone's photos of work in progress and the plug he tapped in to had like 5 or 6 wires coming out of it! Probably a different year vehicle, but anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for any help.

 

Disregard my last question regarding the coloring of the wires. When you manage to strip off the electrical tape they're wrapped in, their true colors spring to life.
I wired this up and noted that going to the pot without the resistor, it throttles up / down great. With the resistor (and I tried several different ones), it kind of "lags" getting up to high idle, and sometimes I have to fool with it a little to make it work.
My question is, do I NEED this resistor, or can I go directly to the pot without damaginfg anything? Thanks.