Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks for the fast response !
So assuming there is no tool I may have to time the sensor by checking the voltage out at 26 degrees ATDC?
I believe it moves to 12 volts when operating.
I just need to figure out which wire is which. Chilton shows three wires.
I presume one is incoming power. My chilton seems to suggest that one of the output signals goes to the rev counter and the other to the ECM.
Interesting that the rev counter still works.
So assuming there is no tool I may have to time the sensor by checking the voltage out at 26 degrees ATDC?
I believe it moves to 12 volts when operating.
I just need to figure out which wire is which. Chilton shows three wires.
I presume one is incoming power. My chilton seems to suggest that one of the output signals goes to the rev counter and the other to the ECM.
Interesting that the rev counter still works.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
I would think that you could mark the area around the old unit and then intall the new unit using those marks.
According to the '95 manual, the BK/W wire is ground, the Red wire is 12V power, and the DB/O is the signal wire back to the PCM (pin #85).
According to the '95 manual, the BK/W wire is ground, the Red wire is 12V power, and the DB/O is the signal wire back to the PCM (pin #85).
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks again.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I am assuming the old unit is toast so I won't see a signal out of the old DB/O pin.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I am assuming the old unit is toast so I won't see a signal out of the old DB/O pin.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by mickdw
Thanks again.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
anyhope
I just bought a 1997 ranger 3.0 w/o the CMP installed. I thought it wouldn't be a big deal since I have installed distributers but all the books and replys on here make it look like I might have a problem. Also the engine IS NOT at TDC. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Just found the Dorman Camshaft Synchronizer with the Sensor and alignment tool for a 96 3.0L V6 at Rock Auto for about $37. Even with shipping that seems a lot less money than some others have had to pay in this thread. I highly recommend checking them out before getting ripped off by a dealer.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
OK what is the deal about where the connector is positioned.If you have the alignment tool it should not have to be at 60 degres or 75 degres.As long as the vane is in line with the base the connector could be anywhere.Correct me if I am wrong.
New User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hello everyone. I have a 95 Ranger with a 3.0 liter engine and the C vane is completely gone. How should this C vane be positioned with the scnchronizer at tdc. Any suggestions.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Are the plugs the same for both types of sensor used on the 4.0L?
One has a right angle connector (on my 95 Ranger) connects vertically. The others have a connector that plugs in horizontally.
Reason for asking my truck has the right angle type and it looks like the horizontal version is more available, less $$$ and easy to adjust with the tool.
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I think I may have answered my own question.
The 94, 95 are different to the post 96 , however there are a couple of vendors who sell the connector for the 96 and later camshaft position sensor for less than $30.
Any reason why the 96 camshaft position sensor won't fit the 95 if I switch the plug to the newer type? Mechanically they do look the same.
It looks like Ford might have redesigned the part because of a problem and made it easier to fix.
The 94, 95 are different to the post 96 , however there are a couple of vendors who sell the connector for the 96 and later camshaft position sensor for less than $30.
Any reason why the 96 camshaft position sensor won't fit the 95 if I switch the plug to the newer type? Mechanically they do look the same.
It looks like Ford might have redesigned the part because of a problem and made it easier to fix.
4wd Low
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Hello there,
I've lurked for quite some time and I have been reading searched threads about the CMP.
I kind of have a unique situation, lol...I have a 98' Ranger that had a dead 3.0 motor...Sooo, I went out and purchased a barely used 99' 3.0 and swapped them out.
Now, here's where I run into a problem with the CMP...The donor engine had a broken and damaged CMP sensor and syncro...I went through the engine completely replacing gaskets everywhere, etc, etc.
Long story short I was crusing along and it was time to swap the sensor and syncro...Soo, without thinking I just removed the bolt and pulled her out...It was not at TDC and I did end up moving the cam before reinstalling it...From what I have been told locally this is bad bad bad...Some friends told me I will have to completely tear down the engine down to get the fuel timing to sync again...Is there any way around this? I just purchased the syncro install tool from the snap on guy...However, again I was told this wouldn't do me any good as the cam has been moved.
Any help and/or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
PHRoG
I've lurked for quite some time and I have been reading searched threads about the CMP.
I kind of have a unique situation, lol...I have a 98' Ranger that had a dead 3.0 motor...Sooo, I went out and purchased a barely used 99' 3.0 and swapped them out.
Now, here's where I run into a problem with the CMP...The donor engine had a broken and damaged CMP sensor and syncro...I went through the engine completely replacing gaskets everywhere, etc, etc.
Long story short I was crusing along and it was time to swap the sensor and syncro...Soo, without thinking I just removed the bolt and pulled her out...It was not at TDC and I did end up moving the cam before reinstalling it...From what I have been told locally this is bad bad bad...Some friends told me I will have to completely tear down the engine down to get the fuel timing to sync again...Is there any way around this? I just purchased the syncro install tool from the snap on guy...However, again I was told this wouldn't do me any good as the cam has been moved.
Any help and/or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
PHRoG
Last edited by PHRoG; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:48 PM.
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I just started having problems with my '97 Taurus' Positioning sensor. After finally finding the sensor, I found that a piece of the top was torn off. and there is nothing, no magnet, on the inside top of sensor and the top of the sychro assembly was torn up. Any ideas what could have caused this and could it have messed anything else up underneath the assembly, from pieces of the sensor dropping down the assembly?
