Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement
#91
Thanks for the fast response !
So assuming there is no tool I may have to time the sensor by checking the voltage out at 26 degrees ATDC?
I believe it moves to 12 volts when operating.
I just need to figure out which wire is which. Chilton shows three wires.
I presume one is incoming power. My chilton seems to suggest that one of the output signals goes to the rev counter and the other to the ECM.
Interesting that the rev counter still works.
So assuming there is no tool I may have to time the sensor by checking the voltage out at 26 degrees ATDC?
I believe it moves to 12 volts when operating.
I just need to figure out which wire is which. Chilton shows three wires.
I presume one is incoming power. My chilton seems to suggest that one of the output signals goes to the rev counter and the other to the ECM.
Interesting that the rev counter still works.
#92
#93
Thanks again.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I am assuming the old unit is toast so I won't see a signal out of the old DB/O pin.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I am assuming the old unit is toast so I won't see a signal out of the old DB/O pin.
#94
Originally Posted by mickdw
Thanks again.
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
I could mark the outside on the CPS and the block as you suggested.
Is the shaft and gear marked in any way so I can check to see if the internal "vane" of the new unit is rotated to the same spot as the old?
#95
#96
Just found the Dorman Camshaft Synchronizer with the Sensor and alignment tool for a 96 3.0L V6 at Rock Auto for about $37. Even with shipping that seems a lot less money than some others have had to pay in this thread. I highly recommend checking them out before getting ripped off by a dealer.
#97
#101
Are all of the Camshaft Position Sensors three wire?
Are the plugs the same for both types of sensor used on the 4.0L?
One has a right angle connector (on my 95 Ranger) connects vertically. The others have a connector that plugs in horizontally.
Reason for asking my truck has the right angle type and it looks like the horizontal version is more available, less $$$ and easy to adjust with the tool.
Are the plugs the same for both types of sensor used on the 4.0L?
One has a right angle connector (on my 95 Ranger) connects vertically. The others have a connector that plugs in horizontally.
Reason for asking my truck has the right angle type and it looks like the horizontal version is more available, less $$$ and easy to adjust with the tool.
#102
I think I may have answered my own question.
The 94, 95 are different to the post 96 , however there are a couple of vendors who sell the connector for the 96 and later camshaft position sensor for less than $30.
Any reason why the 96 camshaft position sensor won't fit the 95 if I switch the plug to the newer type? Mechanically they do look the same.
It looks like Ford might have redesigned the part because of a problem and made it easier to fix.
The 94, 95 are different to the post 96 , however there are a couple of vendors who sell the connector for the 96 and later camshaft position sensor for less than $30.
Any reason why the 96 camshaft position sensor won't fit the 95 if I switch the plug to the newer type? Mechanically they do look the same.
It looks like Ford might have redesigned the part because of a problem and made it easier to fix.
#103
Hello there,
I've lurked for quite some time and I have been reading searched threads about the CMP.
I kind of have a unique situation, lol...I have a 98' Ranger that had a dead 3.0 motor...Sooo, I went out and purchased a barely used 99' 3.0 and swapped them out.
Now, here's where I run into a problem with the CMP...The donor engine had a broken and damaged CMP sensor and syncro...I went through the engine completely replacing gaskets everywhere, etc, etc.
Long story short I was crusing along and it was time to swap the sensor and syncro...Soo, without thinking I just removed the bolt and pulled her out...It was not at TDC and I did end up moving the cam before reinstalling it...From what I have been told locally this is bad bad bad...Some friends told me I will have to completely tear down the engine down to get the fuel timing to sync again...Is there any way around this? I just purchased the syncro install tool from the snap on guy...However, again I was told this wouldn't do me any good as the cam has been moved.
Any help and/or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
PHRoG
I've lurked for quite some time and I have been reading searched threads about the CMP.
I kind of have a unique situation, lol...I have a 98' Ranger that had a dead 3.0 motor...Sooo, I went out and purchased a barely used 99' 3.0 and swapped them out.
Now, here's where I run into a problem with the CMP...The donor engine had a broken and damaged CMP sensor and syncro...I went through the engine completely replacing gaskets everywhere, etc, etc.
Long story short I was crusing along and it was time to swap the sensor and syncro...Soo, without thinking I just removed the bolt and pulled her out...It was not at TDC and I did end up moving the cam before reinstalling it...From what I have been told locally this is bad bad bad...Some friends told me I will have to completely tear down the engine down to get the fuel timing to sync again...Is there any way around this? I just purchased the syncro install tool from the snap on guy...However, again I was told this wouldn't do me any good as the cam has been moved.
Any help and/or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
PHRoG
Last edited by PHRoG; 09-12-2007 at 07:48 PM.
#104
I just started having problems with my '97 Taurus' Positioning sensor. After finally finding the sensor, I found that a piece of the top was torn off. and there is nothing, no magnet, on the inside top of sensor and the top of the sychro assembly was torn up. Any ideas what could have caused this and could it have messed anything else up underneath the assembly, from pieces of the sensor dropping down the assembly?