no you didn't do any thing wrong! you may a peice of intake gasket caught in a valve too!

 

another CPS replaced here, on a 1995 3.0L 150,000 miles.

the "c vane" on top of the shaft was bent, and i was able to crudely bend it back to somewhat of a round shape.. nowhere near perfect i really expected it would have torn up the new sensor on the first crank of the motor... But actually, it seems to be working fine! only 300miles on it so far, but running as smooth as it ever does (a little rough is the norm i've decided), certainly doesn't seem to have a fuel timing issue at all and the CEL has stayed off!! That was my main goal, get that darn light to go off. I used a pair of pliers and just kinda "gave it a whirl".. and maybe just got lucky but is worth a shot before you replace it IMO. Another poster did this more wisely by using a socket just the right size to judge how to shape it... good idea...

sensor was $27.. took 20 minutes total. Used a long extension and unplugged a couple vaccum lines and an electrical connection to allow easier access.

 

when i did mine in my ranger the cam sensor was destroyed. due to the fact that the housing was wobbled out causing the shaft to move around taking the sensor out.
so i wound up replacing the whole thing. the 4.0l plenums are different from the 3.0l.
and you can't see the sensor from the top.

 

I know this thread has been extensively discussed and has a lot of information. However, I can't seem to find the camshaft position sensor on my 2000 Ranger 3.0L 6 cyl with the V engine. There are close-up pictures of the sensor on the car and a parts diagram in this thread, but I can't seem to identify the area on my engine based on those pictures.

I read I should be able to inspect the sensor without taking anything apart. Do any of you guys happen to have any more pictures showing the general location of the sensor in relation to other engine parts?

Thanks,

 

there in the back of the block down next to the oil pressure switch!! its the same as a car!!

 

I found it, and I appreciate your help. The parts diagram I was looking at gave me the impression the sensor was on the front of the engine. As soon as I took a look at the back of the engine, I saw the sensor right away.

 

cool,cool, and your welcome! no there not! like most ford engines there in the front... these are in the back of the block!!! my buddies 29 is in the same spot... the 2.9l,3.0l,4.ol are all in the same spot..

 

How do I get to it I can get one screw out but the other one is blocked by one of the lines going into the water pump can it be removed from the water pump?

 

Mine started squeaking and I don't have the money to fix it right now. Is it ok to drive it until I get the money?

 

it COULD be harmful, yes, depending on what's causing the squeak (magnet or shaft, etc), but it could also go a long time without any damage BUT YOU NEED TO CHECK IT AND CLEAN up if you haven't yet. At least take the sensor off and see if the magnet is still intact b/c if its broken or loose and that is causing the squeak you need to clean brush, use a vaccuum, etc the shavings and magnet material out of or off of the top of the assembly. This won't cost you a penny! And it may prevent the serious damage that's possible when it rockets around in there bending the vane, those metal shavings etc from getting in the bearing/gears and ruining your synchronizer assembly, camshaft itself, etc etc.

Its really a guessing game or shooting match of whether or not it will make a bigger problem if its squeaking. Mine didn't squeak, the sensor was just bad... and it won't hurt anything to run it without working as long as it runs OK for you so i didn't fix mine for a looonnng time, maybe a few years fwiw, but the shaft was fine so no harm done.

 

hiii, i have a 99 mercury mountanieer, a month ago i had change the camshaft of that car and the light check engine on panel came on, could that light be that camshaft have installed in a wrong way?

 

whats the code? anytime you have a hard failure it'll set a code.
and they make 2 different versions of that sensor.

 

i have the box that the part came inside, the code on that is,
DA-2097
F7TZ-12A362-AC
synchronizer

 

the ECM code thats turning check engine light on.. have your rig scanned
the code in the ECM should start with a po340 is cam sensor malfunction. for example!

 

Another 3.0 saved! Mine was starting to squeak and I thought it was the belt...but putting my head near the engine it was coming from the back! Read this forum and viola! Installed very simply...no hassle. Took longer to do an oil change. By the way, most everyone on other forums agree...ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT sync...the Dormans are junk...they have failed in less than 10,000 miles. If you bought one, you might want to pull it out and check the gear and shaft wobble.