I have a '98 Ford Expedition 4wd with check engine light code P1309. My mechanic replaced the cam sensor and reset the computer, but the code came back. Both mechanic and I agree, the engine is running strong and we don't hear any noises. Mechanic suggested taking it to the dealer.

Any ideas?
Thanks.

 

yeah have it scanned and find out what the code or code's are. those palm readers are useless for one they don't give enough info to do the repairs. 2 you can't stream the data to see what is happening. 3 if you don't have the cam sensor synch. right it'll set the same code. what i'd do is have it scanned again and take it from there. skip the dealer. its a waste of time and your money. the only time i take my ranger to the ford dealer is for a recall notice thats it. i do all my repairs myself. does your mechanic offer a warranty on his work? he should. take it back and reset the cam sensor. and take the neg off the battery to reset the ecm. or you may have another problem that the reader didn't pickup the first time. i have seen that happen before too.

 

My mechanic used one of the hand held scanners to read out the code. What other kind is there and what more information does it give? From this string it appears that the sensor part is easy to replace, no aligment necessary, it's when the shaft has to be replaced that makes it trickier.
Since replacing the sensor didn't fix the problem, my mechanic didn't charge me for the part or the labor, he put the old part back in.
Does ecm refer to the computer? Does removing power reset the codes?
The truck runs great, just can't get rid of the pesky CEL, so we can smog and register it.
In looking through old emails I found a reference for this truck when my friend (who owns the truck) took it to a ford dealer and they said it needs a new PC Module (power control) which costs $475, so with labor would be $1000 - yikes. (the email was from 2009, so likely more $)
Do you think it could be this PC module or could it be the computer needs to be replaced? I don't hear any of the engine noises or have other engine problems like other posters in this thread.

Thanks, -Paul

 

i have an actron scanner that you can stream data while you drive it or in the shop idling. and look at whats going on. my ranger has a 4.0 in it and the cam sensor went and it ran the same smoke the tires performance it always had. but i took the sensor apart and it was destroyed. and yes the ecm is the computer, the brain of the engine management system. so i replaced the sensor and reset the ecm by disconnecting the neg battery terminal for about 15 minutes and put everything back together and the cel stayed off. what i did was ran the #1 piston to tdc and then tore it apart. not moving the engine. installed the sensor with the synch tool and put it back together. and yes they do have to be synchronized both styles do. you can't just stick it in there and expect it to work. it'll work but its not in time is what i'm getting at. its like a computer controlled distributor. my ranger is a 96 vintage and it takes the 2 peice sensor. and removing the power will erase the codes. but if its not set up right it'll trigger the same codes. i don't think its the ecm failing because it still runs. right, usually a faulty ecm will trigger a code and not start and run. is that rig an automatic? and does it shift funny like say it only goes to second gear and thats it? than the ecm is in limp home mode.
i'll try to help ya as much as i can paul. but its hard to do when i'm not there to look at the rig. i'll give as much info as i can.

 

I just wanted to say, thanks to the guy who asked about the camshaft position sensor, and many thanks to the gentlemen who answered him, I followed your advice and the idiot light went off after I had made a 40-dollar mistake. My mistake was I did not take the old magnet out of the shaft, when I put the new sensor in it slipped in ok and I tightened down the two screws then plugged it back In. Then I heard a little pop
Took off the sensor and to my surprise I found the top of the sensor was missing, well needless to say I put the old one back in and went to the store and bought another one. This time I used a magnet and cleaned out the junk left behind, and now I guess I became the idiot light, 40 more dollars and second time around its fixed. I hope the next person can learn from my mistake. Once again thank you for the information, I still saved a ton of money
Dave

 

your welcome and that would be me. i like to share info. trying to help is all.
cool man you fixed it yay you! i'm glad to be some help. that makes my day!

 

I took the timing chain cover off of my f150 to change the timing chain but I never took the camshaft sensor or synchronizer off the cover now when I put it back together do I have to take the señor and synchronizer out to realign it or can I just put the cover back on ant it be goo can anybody answer that

 

its better if you reset the sensor, after the cover goes back on.

 

1999 Ranger 3.0L Won't start. It has fuel pressure and spark. Noid test on injector harness has pulse. Checked fuses already. Which relay to check? Perhaps reset ECM? Disconnect neg battery for 10 minutes?

 

My 99 Ranger 3.0 started running real rough. I had my code reader with me and I get P0340 and P1309. My engine is knocking real bad now. What have I done?

 

what are the code definitions?

 

P0340- Camshaft Position Sensor-A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction.
P1309- Manufacturer Control Ignition System or Misfire.
I have no Oil Pressure so I am going to replace the entire CPS assembly.

 

i forgot fords were gear driven.

 

I have a feeling that won't be enough. The CPS assembly drives the oil pump. When it fails, the oil flow stops but the engine can continue running. There's a good chance your engine bearings are toast.

 

It is confirmed my bearings are toast. I ordered a long block from National Parts and now begin the task of moving all the stuff (Oil Pan, Flywheel, Timing chain cover, Water Pump, Lower & Upper Intake manifolds, Valve Covers, CPS assembly, Alternator, AC compressor, Power steering pump)from the old block to the new one.