Hi Mike

I think I'm OK, I've driven around already several drive cycles, about 25-30 miles of highway and city, and a check under the hood each time has revealed no more sqeaking /sctatching sound. I think I lucked out by catching the broken-off magnet before it had a chance to do any damage. And I don't believe (at this time, anyway) that the squeaking/sctatching noise I heard was associated with anything else, such as a bad synchronizer gear.

But of course, I will be keeping an eye (ear?) on it.

Thanks for the feedback

 

Rockledge:

Almost all of the cam sensors I have seen that have gone bad the hall effect vane has been bent - either from broken parts or one where the bushing got sick. I think that you caught the problem in time. Paying attention to noises pays off.

Russ

 

Hey Russ,

I think more than anything I was fortunate enough to have a OBD-II code reader on hand (worth it's weight in gold), and by reading the P0340 code right away I was immediatly able to hone in on the problem. Recalling this thread and other accounts that I've read helped, as well. I am almost certain that had I continued to drive the car, there would have been damage done to the synchronizer/shaft. Even my trip to the carwash was probably pushing it (although I didn't hear anything until after I got back). And you're right, as soon as I heard what I thought was a noise coming from the area where the cam sensor is located, I shut that baby down for closer inspection, which in all likelyhood saved the vane and hence the synchronizer/shaft.

Knowledge is indeed Power.

 

Rockledge: Amen to that - our collective knowledge is invaluable. Sure happy that we are all willing to share and learn from and with each other.

Russ

 

Ford offered to replace my camshaft senor and canshaft sensor assembly for only $680. I bought the camshaft sensor and the sensor assembly from ford, the alignment tool from my local snap-on distributor (called local parts shops until I found one that would give me the name for a snap-on distributor). He took the sensor out of a tool set and sold it to me piece-meal...once i found TDC for #1 cylinder (per my Haynes manual) the camshaft positioner slipped right into position (per this thread) and I was up: 680 - 132 (sensor assembly) + 27 (alignment tool) + 18 (sensor) = $503 that I didn't need to pay ford for their horrible design.

Anyone want to buy an alignment tool....only used once (grin)<GRIN>

<NOT ford a>(not a ford) viktum

p.s. thanks to all on this thread and all of their posts...i would not have even known to attempt this without your time and consideration - you are the BEST!

 

Welcome aboard, and thanks for the feedback.

 

Thanks to all you folks who have posted, esp. with the pictures. It was a great help for me to replace my Camshaft Sensor on my 1998 Windstar (3.0 L).

As I popped the sensor out, the internal guts fell out too. I can't believe the van even would run? Anyways, now my check engine light remains on, but the engine is running very smooth, so I have to assume that the light may go off after a period of time ?

Thanks again for all the help !

- Mike

 

Welcome Mike!

You can disconnect the cable from the negative battery post for about 20 minutes, which will erase the code(s) stored in memory and get rid of the CEL.

 

I was just curious, What is the circleshape (under the sensor plug in slot) on the shaft there for?

 

Not sure what you mean...?

 

First of all, you guys are great and this forum rocks! Thank you for a ton of knowledge that I've acquired on the subject.

My 99 Taurus 3.0 has started squeaking a couple of days ago. It's an on/off sound that after some googling I am now attributing to the synchro/sensor problem discussed here.
In my case, both the sensor and the "C" of the shaft look fine. I haven't had time to drive with the sensor disconnected and off, will do that soon, - this should tell me if the problem is with the shaft.
As usual, FoMoCo has surprised me with their a$$works of auto design: there is a conspiracy of the throttle body and linkage, coolant hose, ignition wires, wiring harness encapsulated in plastic shield and who knows what else that eliminates reasonable access to the synchro assembly. So, one would have to pay for several hours of labor in order for a tech to get to the sensor that can be swapped in less than 2 minutes.... :-/

 

Welcome to FTE, karamba! Glad to hear this thread was helpful.

I agree with you on the hassle replacing the CMP sensor on the Taurus 3.0L, 99% of the job is just getting to it.

 

I had initially come here to learn more about the camshaft syncronizer problem and ended up joining :-)

I am not much of a tool user and I think I might have a screwdriver somewhere, so I decided to let my mechanic do the change out of the CSS and sensor. This thing had been making the squeaking noise for about 2 years, I kid you not. I had always just assumed that it was the idle pulley as that is what I had been told. I figured I would get it changed at one point and I could live with the squeaking when the weather was wet or humid.

Well, I took it in to have some regular work done on it and was told that my belt tensioner was going bad and that IT was the cause of my squeaking, so I had them take care of that. Of course, the squeaking kept right on going so I took it to my real mechanic who was able to diagnose the real problem. He told me that his shop replaces about 5 a month. After seeing the pictures in this thread of all the ones that were broken, I was pleasantly surprised to see mine in such good condition...until you twisted the shaft then it squeaked like crazy.

Total cost was $320.

Caddo Critter
2000 Ranger XLT
3.0 V6 Vulcan

 

Hi, I'm new to the site. I came to this to look up info on my wife's 01 F550 4X4, having a camshaft sensor problem. I also have a 96 Ranger 3.0L that I had to replace the camshaft synchronizer on a while back. I found it online for $97.79 including shipping. Just do a web search for "motorcraft DA2094". The web site that comes up will list it as part for a 95 windstar, it's the same part. I would give you the exact address but I don't believe these types of forums allow that. If you hate getting ripped off by the dealer's parts department like I do this will help.

 

What causes a synchronizer to fail?