89 F250

I have to replace the fuel pump on rear tank. Any tips on gas tank removal? I think it is still half-full. (17 gallons capacity).

The only thing that doesn't work is the sending unit, so the gauge always reads empty, but it pumps fuel. But the sending unit comes integrated into the pump, so the whole assembly needs to be replaced.

 

Siphon the tank completely, its much easier to remove an empty tank than a full tank.
Or drive around some more

Once its empty, or nearly empty, you put on the parking brake, then stack 2x4 scraps in a log-cabin style until its about an inch or slow below the tank. This prevents it from dropping on your head.

Spray all the strap bolts with penetrating oil, then take 'em off. If its really rotted under there the bolts will likely snap, be prepared to replace them. Once the tank is off the frame, resting on the 2x4's, you can then slide out some of the 2x4's and work the tank out from underneath the truck, do your R&R, then reinstall. Once you get the back straps hooked in, you can lift the front of the tank using a floor jack with a few 2x4 scraps resting on the metal pod of the jack, as not to dent, crease, or make sparks. Jack to the right height, put the bolts back in.

I replaced the fuel pump in my back tank about a month and a half ago, took about 4 hours total, using the above method. Had to really yank on the breaker bar, but all is well. Just wish it was warmer when I did it. I had to replace my back pump because it was dead, and the front tank pump was getting flakey. Turned out to be a loose connector, which is better than a dying pump. I was just afraid of getting stuck on the side of the road with 66 gallons of unusable gas <Grin>

 

Oh, I meant to mention the pump/sender flange on the top of the tank rotates to come out. Use a hammer against a block of wood to turn it, as it will absolutely be stuck. Do not, absolutely do not, work on gas tanks with metal hitting metal, ever. Hit a block of wood, and use the edge of the wood to rotate the flange.

Sparks bad. And wear goggles, I'm sure like all trucks yours has some rust flakes underneath on various things (like your bolts, of course), so thwacking or yanking them out will toss lots of dirt, rust and other fine particles in your eyes.

 

Yea, cuz metal is stronger than eye. If you dont wear protection, I know a guy who can lend you an eye patch till yours comes in. Dont worry, its only crusty on the inside.

 

You could always take the bed off and then you don't have to worry about dropping the tank.


Longneck

 

How does one take the bed off? Also, how does one ensure the bolts are tight that hold the bed and cab to the frame (1988 F150 4 x 2)--ie. how many bolts are there, and where are they located? I have a rattle/clunk when I go over bumps that I am sure comes from the bed not being tightly attached to the frame, but don't know how to fix that.
Thanks.

 

There are only 4(?) bolts holding the bed to the frame. The hard part is remembering to remove all the taillight wiring, fuel tank necks and all the other little things attatched to the bed.

Longneck

 

The 4 bolts in the straps holding the tank (or rather stone shield) are easy to see. The FSM says they are the last thing to remove.

However, it is not obvious to me how to remove the filler neck - do I just undo the clamps? Both of them are just one at the top? I cannot even see the other one at the bottom.

And, where are all the electrical wires? I am afraid once I drop the tank, something is going to snap if not disconnected.

I am reading the FSM. It mentions "fuel line hairpin clips" - where is that? On top of the tank?

Then there is "vapor valve", where is that?