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Hello All,
I have been absent from the forum for many months but now I have some questions about converting my 54 windows to power units. I looked at some issues of other guys having problems but I can't find anything as to what they used for the power kits.
I see on the internet that there are some kits available but I am not sure what will actually fit in my truck. Both of my manual regulators are always very hard to operate and I am always having to take them apart and readjust them to get them to work right.
So.... What are you guys that have made the jump to power windows using? Can these kits be bolted directly to the bolt holes of the manual regulators or is there more drilling involved? Do they run smoother than the manual units in the fuzzy channels?
Do they hold up well to the weight of the glass or does the motor tend to burn out easily? Thanks in advance for any and all information.
Bob
I converted my 1951 Ford f1 to power windows and it’s been a disaster, they just don’t seal along the bottom. My doors fill up with water and I really don’t know what else I can do to try to get a seal . I had to cut out the quarter light support to fit them so it’s at the point of no return for me. Hope this helps.
Being the cheapskate that I am I used the stock 55 window regulator and cut off the crank gear and made a bracket to hold a 1970s era Ford power window motor, the gears are the same. Clocking of the window motor has to be just right
I don't think any of our truck door windows will seal to keep the water out of the door like our modern day trucks and cars do..
If you have not done it, you should drill a series of drain holes in the bottom of the doors, kill all the rust and paint
the door interior. The water should simply drain right through. If you paint the interior of the doors it should not rust and you will be happy.
Does anyone know of a product to apply to the window fuzzy channels to make the glass run easier? The regulators are pretty loose when the glass is not attached but there seems to be a lot of drag on the glass. Both edge channels appear to be straight and parallel.
Do you have original glass or new glass? If new, are we sure they're the same size as OEM? We've seen many times, especially glass from vendor kits, aren't cut the same as original and are slightly larger, just enough to not fit right in the holes, or rub in the tracks and difficult to roll up and down. I'd recommend double checking on your sizing before doing any drastic lubrication. Tempered glass is harder to fix, but if it's laminated safety glass and it's too large, the fix is to sand the edges until they fit.
I will check the thickness of both windows in the AM. I know one is pretty new and that one is the hardest to run up and down. I am not sure about the othe one. In the mean time, can anyone tell me the thickness of the glass on original units?
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