After rewiring my truck i lost my brake lights again. I jumpered the wires at the switch and the lights work. I hooked up my meter to the switch to test continuity, nothing. I had purchased a new switch last year, so I put that in, no change. I thought, maybe there’s no fluid getting to the switch so I bled it by loosening the switch and pumping the brakes, yep fluid came out.

is there a way you can test the switch off the truck, compressed air maybe?

What are folks using for brake light switches? obviously this repro is faulty. Is there another choice?

As always, thx in advance for the help.

 

Pressure switches have long been a hit or miss thing. Some guys have good luck, others report constant issues and nightmares. If it were me, I'd convert to an electric switch and put a plug in your brake fitting hole. The Standard SLS 40 switch linked here mounts on the outside of the toe board behind the brake pedal arm. When you push on the brake pedal, the arm moves down away from the lever to close the switch and actuate the brake lights. Place it high against the brake arm for fastest light actuation and fastest stopping warning to cars behind. Your existing wiring just gets extended to the new switch. No new engineering is necessary.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...qXNDGuQiv9ymm_

 

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SLS27 or Echlin SL134. Never had a problem with one. If those don't strike your fancy, here are others:

ACDelco 12323538, U855
AMC 201466, A1271, J201466, J3145198, J4488306, JA001271
Advan-tech 3D5
Airtex 1S5366, 1S5367
BWD S194
Beck/Arnley 201-0304
CARQUEST Premium By WELLS 53-54491
Cartek 8676
Chrysler 1603328, 1622014, 201466, 3145198, 3191294, 4488306, A1271, J201466, J3145198, J4488306, JA001271
Duralast F4805
Ford 0A-13480, B8A-13480-A, B8E-13480-A, B9SF-13480-A, C1AF-13480-A, C1AZ-13480-A, D3KF-13480-AA, D3TB-13480-A1A, FFA-13480-A
General Motors 12323538, 1328118, 1972519, 1997725, 303056, 4766
Jeep 201466, A1271, J201466, J3145198, J4488306, JA001271
Kem EG1043
MasterPro 2-8676
Mighty Distributing System 3-850
Motorcraft SW24
NAPA Mileage Plus SL134SB
Renault 201466, A1271, J201466, J3145198, J4488306, JA001271
ROSTRA 62-0035
T Series SLS27T
WELLS 1S5367



I am of the opinion that many of the gripes of their reliability stem from improper installation where too much gorilla power was used along with an adjustable wrench (causing deformation of the unit) instead of a a more gentle consistent approach with a deep 6 point socket. There is no need to go all Hulk Hogan on it or anything. If you are afraid of it leaking, use some Gasoila soft set - but many units come with a sealant already on them. Or there is the "I put new brake fluid in it when I redid it not all that long ago.... 15 years ago..." - Of course the system fluid isn't going to be clean anymore! If your brake fluid is compromised preventing switch function, might as well get that taken care of instead of masking the issue by following the suggestions of the inevitable crowd of physical pedal switch advocates that will pile on. Why do it different when it can be done right?

 

Thanks for the info

 

I think I’ll use this approach, I’ve had 4 pressure switches in my truck and consistent brake light issue. Thx

 

Do you have a picture of the SLS40 mounted?

 

If one insists, @jniolon has a writeup here on how to go to a physical switch with pictures:

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/wi...ightswitch.htm

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21531082

Personally, I'd mount it with the wiring down to be a cleaner install and keep moisture and debris from sitting in the bowl, but that's just me.

 

This is a good decision! I just commented on another post on this. Easy install, simple open/close circuit switch and if it breaks 10 mins to swap it out. No brake bleeding etc. I don't see a reason to use a pressure switch in these trucks but I may not understand everything. There are just more failure points.

Not do imply the jnolon switch install isn't a great solution, but I just mounted mine on the firewall under the brake pedal lever. It's a lot simpler. When I step on the brake the lever moves out and triggers the switch, brake pedal up it compresses the lever and lights off. It's a 3 screw installation. If you are worried about exposure to the elements put some dielectric grease on the terminals.

The other thread. Post #6 shows the firewall mounting set up albeit on a Chevy.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21822122