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Another Intake Question

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Old May 24, 2026 | 08:02 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jtsarby
Heads alone won't be enough especially gt40. Gt40p would be better but you will run into header issues. I. picked up gt40 upper and lower intake. I can confirm they do NOT clear the valve covers. Not close. I will clean them up and resetl them. The seller through in the throttle body and ECU. I guess I will look for a stock lower and have it ported.
Don’t want to do the spacer?
 
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Old May 24, 2026 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
Its worth it if you want more power.
I would think GT40 heads won’t get you anything more than the E7’s with the stock flat tappet cam.

Originally Posted by Jtsarby
Heads alone won't be enough especially gt40. Gt40p would be better but you will run into header issues. I. picked up gt40 upper and lower intake. I can confirm they do NOT clear the valve covers. Not close. I will clean them up and resetl them. The seller through in the throttle body and ECU. I guess I will look for a stock lower and have it ported.
I agree. The GT40 intake should work with pedestal mount rocker arms. I assume your AFR 165 heads are stud mount?
 
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Old May 24, 2026 | 09:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
I would think GT40 heads won’t get you anything more than the E7’s with the stock flat tappet cam.



I agree. The GT40 intake should work with pedestal mount rocker arms. I assume your AFR 165 heads are stud mount?
No they are pedestal mount. I have the ford racing valve covers. I even tried my stock valve covers and it would not work. I am trying to decide whether to use a spacer or get a stock lower and have it ported. Porting is not for me. It look so easy but I cannot control the bit evidently.
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 02:46 PM
  #19  
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It will take a 1” spacer and is still tight. Here is a photo of the damaged lower. I found another lower for $50.
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 04:43 PM
  #20  
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You can fill that in with jb weld and move forward with your project. Its an intake manifold; it sees no pressure and not much heat.
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 05:26 PM
  #21  
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With that gouge, I would think you are putting too much pressure on the cutting. There are much more people with experience that can give their advice.
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 06:11 PM
  #22  
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It looks like you are using a ball burr from the trough that you cut. Ideally, find an aluminum cut pineapple of football burr for smoother cutting. Keep the burr moving from corner to corner with moderate pressure. If you find that you are digging in too much, slow down the grinder and lighten up the pressure until you get a better feel for it.

So, how did you lay out your lines that you are grinding to and how large are you going? Are you aware that the AFR 165 intake ports are offset from the stock position?
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 06:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rwfid
It looks like you are using a ball burr from the trough that you cut. Ideally, find an aluminum cut pineapple of football burr for smoother cutting. Keep the burr moving from corner to corner with moderate pressure. If you find that you are digging in too much, slow down the grinder and lighten up the pressure until you get a better feel for it.

So, how did you lay out your lines that you are grinding to and how large are you going? Are you aware that the AFR 165 intake ports are offset from the stock position?
. Yes. I used the gasket and traced the outline.
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 07:59 PM
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I would recommend making an accurate template of your heads and using that to layout for your intake manifold. How accurate you need to be will depend on how large you plan on making the manifold port exits. Which gasket are you using?
 
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Old May 25, 2026 | 08:21 PM
  #25  
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Fel pro m-9439-a50. I laid the gasket on the head to check alignment and then place the intake on the heads. I traced/marked the gasket while it was dry fit. I pulled the gasket off and set it on the intake lining up the marks and traced the ports.
 
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