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I just want to confirm I have this right. I have changed to a dual master cylinder with a brake booster and a brass proportioning valve with a "modern" single pin plastic brake light fitting on top. Do I replace it with an "original" one with 2 pins to work with my brake lights?
All new factory wiring 1955 F250 6v + ground.
New valve for front disc brake conversion and dual master cylinder with power booster.
IIRC (an i may be wrong entirely)
the single pin switch you post that is mounted on the distribution block is not a brake light switch for the read lights, but an 'alarm' for a dash switch to indicate an imbalance between front and rear brake circuits.
I'd have to look under the 56, as I do not believe my block even has that provision and if it does, did not hook it up.
I know I am using the two pin switch for the stop lights, as i recall wiring it.
I do not believe the single pin can be used for stop lights.
ghall is 100% correct here. The switch on your distribution block is for the brake imbalance warning light. In case of a leak or malfunction, if wired in like a modern car, that switch would trigger a warning light on the dash. The block has a mechanism inside that trips when a pressure imbalance occurs. It cannot function as a brake light switch. The diagram below is typical and may not be exact to your particular block, but that's how it works.
If you want to use the pressure light switch, you'll need to plumb it into the hydraulic lines somewhere. Better option may be to use a mechanical switch operated off the brake pedal arm.
Next question - what are people using for a setup? Electric switch or inline pressure valve and how have you wired or plumbed it? If an electric switch where did you fixed mount the switch for the pedal? I assume the pressure switch can go inline on any brake line after the proportioning valve?
One of the more commonly used switches is this one that Chevrolet used in the 40's and still readily available. It mounts as shown below on the outside of the toe board. (hopefully a little cleaner. )
Stock style pressure switches are fine and never let me down. They are dead simple, can be plumbed in just about anywhere convenient. I believe that those who report issues/disappointment have issues outside of the switch itself (such as bad wiring), or incorrect installation (not using proper deep socket with minimal torque).
Great. After seeing that I found these options. I wish I understood how the articulated arm one mounts. It looks like I should just order the one you recommended and hopefully that works.
Stock style pressure switches are fine and never let me down. They are dead simple, can be plumbed in just about anywhere convenient. I believe that those who report issues/disappointment have issues outside of the switch itself (such as bad wiring), or incorrect installation (not using proper deep socket with minimal torque).
A oem pressure switch can easily last 50 years, the craptacular chinese ones available now not so much, they are very failure prone and are prone to leaking and the leak destroys the switch.
I had the same problem with the brake pressure switch for the cruise control on my 03 F250, multiple failures until bought a motorcraft one
thanks for the PM
it has been over 10 years since i converted the 56, and I'd just have to peek under it to see how i plumbed it in.
it may have been a brass block with appropriate ports, it "may" have been part of that kit.
I see today on a deep giggle search CCP offers now a proportioning valve with a brake light switch...
here is a link to those instructions... with images of this device https://classicperform.com/media/tech-ins/APV-DB.pdf
I 'know' the kit i used had a distribution block and not a proportioning valve and I did not add one.
I 'know' I added a 2# front and a 10# rear valve in-line even though supposedly the kit was set for this...
I just had more free pedal than I wanted and on the second pump less travel...
I've learned about it after driving it these years and just expect some pedal travel before activation ...
but even then, i think i have a bit too much rear bias (from experiences)
Did you buy the summit brand or a different brand. The summit one is $7.99 and plastic, even though that picture shows metal it's not, and the Ron Francis is $30 and metal. No point in spending money I don't need to.
The Standard SLS40 is the one I linked to in my post above for $23. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21531082
You can get it local, no need to order and pay shipping. It's not a pressure switch, it's mechanical. Set up correctly, when you step on the brake pedal, the switch closes and the brake lights come on. Easy peasy.
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