I did some home work to figure out what would best fill the this hole. ideally I only need two however Max Tow only offers a three gauge pillar panel. As you say the IDash has eight screens that we can scroll through to readily obtain the information. The only place the IDash falls a little short is in fluid pressures. so naturally the oil pressure is obvious the others are the high oil pressure and the coolant pressure. I opted for the coolant pressure because if my eye scans are regular I should pick up an early warning if there is a substantial leak or blown hose, hopefully Catch that before the engine gets to over heated.
in addition I investigated the Pedal Monster, but decided that would not be much of a benefit since all my driving is towing and highway miles. With the heavier loads I think a gradual pull to get momentum if better, its easier on the drive line.
Parts are ordered so the knock list will be:
1) oil flush
2) Install SPE oil cooler
3) Install SPE oil pan
4) Install all three thermostats ( new motorcraft ) OE temp settings
5) Install IDash,Oil pressure, coolant pressure gauges
6) Replace hot and cold charge pipes. trash the mishimoto pipes and use SPE or S&B pipes
7) Install S&B upper coolant pipe, Trash the mishimoto
8) Install S&B 70 gallon fuel tank

Hopefully get this done before trip to Idaho in February then

1) Install new SPE OE+ intake manifold
2) Install new SPE VGT 1 turbo
3) Install new Bullet proof EGR cooler
4) Install new EGR valve
5) Install new FASS EGR filter ( They have not come out with the 2016 6.7 yet but should very soon)
That should get me down the road for a few more years.
only thing left is water pump

 

OK
received the Banks iDash Pro ,, going through the tutorials and learning how to use it. The iDash Pro will perform a static regen.
This tool is crazy awsome

 

How many miles?

More later...

 

220K
from what I am reading its the carbon build up that is hard on the new diesels, specially through the EGR system. The concept is to clean up the EGR system and get the FASS filter on it, I think I should get another 200K at least out of it.

 

Hmmm... never considered Coolant system pressure. Interesting, I will have to check that out.

Whatcha mean by oil flush? Which product did you buy?

Why are you going to trash the Mishimoto CAC pipes and their silicone coolant hose?

I have to flush my primary cooling this year... I am replacing my original oil cooler with a Bullet Proof oil cooler and SPE silicone oil cooler hoses. I bought other coolant system products from SPE but will also buy their silicone top side hose kit for the primary and secondary tanks as well as their lower silicone coolant hose with built in drain for easier coolant drains... when I get my tax return back this year.

I hear you on the intake. I now have PPE's Zilla intake in my sites for my truck but that's on my "long" list. Because if I do the intake, I'd probably do a 360 degree thrust bearing rebuild kit... either I have someone do it and would need to find a turbo rebuild place, or dig into the research and info to do it myself... then there's also stuff to look at like the turbo supply coolant line, the heater inlet coolant line that is known to leak as well as the factory turbo oil line (replace). But this is down the road for me. My truck is my hobby...

I also want to do a Titan 50 gallon fuel tank but that would include the Air Dog install that I bought and never installed... I will see if I do that this year or not because I have to finish my bed project... I cut out my driver side bed inner wheelhouse to get at the rust, despite the truck getting oiled at Carwell Products each year but she is cleaner than most around here, and get the foam out that Ford puts between the bed wheel wheels and the inner wheelhouses. On the passenger side, I only cut out enough to get access to the foam. I have a thread on it in the 6.7 Powerstroke section but did reference here as well in this section, but more detail in the 6.7 section where I spend the majority of my time.

As to the Fass 11 to 16 EGR filter, I would not hold your breath. I've been waiting on that myself.

 

 

I fit up the gauges today. installed on A post, not sure how that is going to work so close to my face at night, I guess we will see. have to connect sensors and power to the gauges this weekend.
About the oil flush, you dump a bottle of that into the oil fill and idle the engine for 10 to 15 then drain immediately. it is supposed to thin the oil out and clean build up spots in the system. and be able to drain more out due to being a little thinner.
I will be installing the 70 gallon tank next week. it's sitting in the back yard right now.
I am trashing the Mishimoto charge pipes because the cold side is leaking at the push on connection at the throttle body. and it is pushing oil all along the driver side of my engine. I think it must be a crap O ring. So I am loosing boost and getting oil all over. I have taken it apart a couple time to reset the connector but it still leaks. Also the Sensor is indexed directly at the top of the pipe and faces up toward the hood. So every time you work on the engine and have to get to the back area, the sensor and sensor wire takes a beating and the wire is getting thrashed to the point I can see the copper strand slightly on one of them. SPE puts the Sensor port on the push on connector so you can index it off to the side and it looks like they have a beefier push on connector. They have two cold pipe systems, I went with the Aluminum pipe, but the silicone hose looks pretty good as well. I guess it is a good thing the cold pipe leaked because that is how aI figured the turbo is failing. I checked the CCV and it is not the source of so much oil so I figure the seals are going on the Turbo.

The SPE upper RAD hose is in transit, I am ditching the Mishimoto there as well. I like the fact that SPE eliminates the push on connectors at the thermostat and Mishimoto does not. Plus I am not really fond of Mishimoto right now. So far the only thing I am keeping of theirs is the two radiators, Transmission pan and lower RAD hose.

I have the SPE oil cooler on the work bench, it is going in next week as well. I also bought the silicone hose kit, however I did not really like the hose clamps they sent, They where better than most and I am sure they would do fine but I went to WEST Marine and picked up some 316 SS hose clamps that are way better.
As far as the TURBO goes, I have not yet Purchased the SPE, I am still doing my homework. Turns out Ford changed the way they lubricated the Turbo in the middle of 2016. Earlier in the year (mine 03-16) the turbos are oiled through an exterior tube that comes off the base of the pedestal. Later in 16 they oiled the turbo through an interior oil galley within the pedestal. So I am currently in discussion with SPE about their VGT 1 turbo and pedestal to find out what they are doing with it. Garret looks like a strong possibility and might have things ironed out a little better.

So when I put the turbo in I will do the SPE heater inlet kit as well.
The bulletproof EGR cooler is in transit and will install that when I do the Turbo.
I can snap some pic for as the process goes along if you want.

 

An oil flushing additive... got cha. I believe I once used this from Lube Gard. Now that I am thinking about it, when I switch to 5w40 from the 10w30 I have run for the life of the truck, and since I use Lube Gard products in my transmission, I'm now thinking I will buy a bottle and do a flush on the last 10w30 oil change.

Speaking of oil, I've been running 10w30 grade and have 3 oil changes left in the basement. I do have one change worth of 5w40 and will start buying Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w40 which can be bought for $25/gallon on sale at NAPA. I have seen good UOAs over in the 6.7 section. I have always believed in the use of synthetic oil, use it in my son's 15 Fusion 2.0 EB, so it's time to use it in my truck and have a 40 weight protection since my truck is stock and does not have the 9th injector in the DPF like the 23 models do.

I disagree with the CCV not being a source of oil, because it is. It combines with the EGR and you get the collection of exhaust and oil inside the factory intake. I saw it when I installed my S&S DPK. Cleaned it best I could before installing the intake back on.

I first put in a Mishimoto catch can system, well... my buddy's worker at his collision shop did it as he is a smaller dude and it was winter time, which I found out was not the best at keeping out the oily blow by out of my intake... plus the fact that their filtering media "sponge" falls apart as they recommend to clean it. And you can not get the sponge by itself and IMO, a better and more durable solution would be a cleanable stainless steel mesh like SPE has for their CCV box. So I utilized their "warranty," by paying IIRC $50 and get a new can with the sponge in the filter holder. It happened twice to me, even with care and being gentle with washing.

I now use an Improved Racing CCR can with Mishimoto;s adapters under the CCV box and the hoses but has to lengthen them to place the catch can over by the driver's side fender, that actually has engineering behind it as it based on their CCS oil catch can, but is designed for forced induction like our 6.7s. The can is way bigger, went with the 0.5 liter can, and has a stainless steel mesh inside that is circular and much bigger than just the little sponge filter of the Mishi can. Have not had it apart yet to clean. Here's the link to my thread. Any questions, shoot away...

Understand on the Mishimoto CAC pipes after my experience with the oil catch can... I would most definitley keep those radiators as it increases your coolant capacity and offers more cooling then the stock rads... that's from the owner of the infamous 922k mile 17 6.7 Powerstroke of Youtube fame.

have not done a deep dive on the turbos yet but will happen when I am closer to putting in an aftermarket intake... eyeing the PPE zilla intake but I do run a S&B intake so there's that since the PPE is based to run off the stock air box... plus want to upgrade my down pipe, up pipes and any sensors like the EBP sensor, since I would be there anyway and anything else I can since the truck will be much closer to 200k miles then it is now...

I'd appreciate you posting pics of your progress...

 

SPE oil cooler in, had to obtain the new O ring seals from Ford as SPE does not have them yet but are working on it. Installed SPE oil pan, went ok, make sure to use a plastic trim tool when opening the old oil pan, it was on there pretty good and was tough to get cracked open. Glad I used the plastic trim tools I had because the SPE pan seals with an O ring and any metal putty knifes or chisels would have scared the aluminum upper pan. Just got it started the worked a thin long scraping blade in to cut the existing sealant until I had enough leverage to pull it all the way off.
Installed the MAX Tow oil pressure sensor, used the 1/4 tee you suggested however there was not enough room because of the cross member. I added a 1/4 x 1/8 st ell with an 1/8" coupling and turned the sensor downward so it will be accessible with the original sensor turned out board.
Pics to follow,
installing 70 gallon fuel tank today

 

 

 

Appreciate the advice and pics.

I have a Filtration Solutions FS2500 bypass filter installed and it's teed off the oil pressure switch. Moving to an Dieselcraft OC25 centrifugal bypass filter with a custom install behind the grill in front because I di not know WTF happened to Filtration Solutions but they ripped me off for two soin on filters... I checked and I was not the only one. If I would have gone with the Insane Diesel bypass filtration kit as I looked into it as well, I'd be good to go.

 

the insane Deisel is the same concept as the Amsoil ?? a micro filter

 

Yes same concept, a oil bypass filter, but IMO and not knocking the Amsoil bypass, that filter cartridge in the ID housing, from what I have seen, is a big filter which appears to have more media than the Amsoil spin on. But I'm just spit balling here...

This is what I will be installing:

https://dieselcraft.com/engine-oil-cleaning/

The Cummins guys have a lot more room under the hood than us 6.7 Powerstroke guys do... so out in front behind my grill. Need to fab a mount for it but will get help from a guy who I became friends with at a local metal shop. I am going to start a thread in the 6.7 section when I start the install this year.

On my phone now and can't get the spoiler off... stand by for edit on laptop.