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Got a set of clips/pins from JBG but not sure the best way to attach them to the door panel. Epoxy will provide the means to hold ...but am I suppose to notch the panel so the clip slides in?? What have you done with yours.??
Last edited by 79F150400M; Dec 10, 2025 at 07:04 PM.
Well, after digging mine out of storage today, mostly out of curiosity, finding that they are in better shape than I recalled, I decided that if they get used, will not be with clips or snap in plastic holders. For years I dreaded having need to pull one off, but today I mapped where the 8 fasteners were, saw is OK ... and if they get reused by me I'll drill through the hole where the clip was from the back to front and pop a 1/4-20 threaded pop rivet like nut in the door recessed receiver hole and use a nice screw from the face side. Either Philips or socket head, SS most likely. Then I can just remove the window crank, remove door pull cups, remove door handle, zip 8 screws out with a driver drill, and then panel is free.
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 10, 2025 at 07:40 PM.
Well, after digging mine out of storage today, mostly out of curiosity, finding that they are better shape than I recalled, I decided that if they get used, will not be with clips or snap in plastic holders. For years I dreaded need to pull one off, but today I mapped where the 8 fasteners were, and if they get reused by me I'll drill through the hole where the clip was and pop a 1/4-20 threaded pop rivet like nut in the door receiver hole and use a nice screw from the face side. Either Philips or socket head, SS most likely. Then I can just remove the window crank, remove door pull cups, remove door handle, zip 8 screws out with a driver drill, and the panel is off.
Ya know...that's not a bad idea. I'm going to look into that method. I like it. Thanks Tbear
Screws would not need be real tight once the panel is seated, could use rubber hose for short spacers, they'd provide enough tension the screws would stay put, plus hold the screws in the door while being installed. Could get nylon spacers from Lowes that fit the screw and cut them, then when putting the panels add a little tape to the screw just to hold the spacers in place on the screw threads as you get them started. Those 8 holes are already in the door metal, in recesses. Just drill them to size needed for those nut-serts. I use a grade 8 bolt and a couple nuts to set those nut-serts.
Not exact, but pretty close as if I did it, I'd drill from the back side .... but here's about where the holes will wind up.
Maybe helps?
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 10, 2025 at 09:53 PM.
Screws would not need be real tight once the panel is seated, could use rubber hose for short spacers, they'd provide enough tension the screws would stay put, plus hold the screws in the door while being installed. Could get nylon spacers from Lowes that fit the screw and cut them, then when putting the panels add a little tape to the screw just to hold the spacers in place on the screw threads as you get them started. Those 8 holes are already in the door metal, in recesses. Just drill them to size needed for those nut-serts. I use a grade 8 bolt and a couple nuts to set those nut-serts.
Just for a second there...you sounded like an aircraft mechanic. Haha. Ask me how I'd know that. ( Retired from Boeing after 32yrs)
I'd also think that the screws wouldn't back out.
Last edited by 79F150400M; Dec 10, 2025 at 09:59 PM.
I sure hope I do not have to take my door panels off enough, that I need to install them with screws. But that is a awesome idea using a nut sert. If you do not mind seeing the screw head. But I guess some low profile stainless steel pan head screws would work ok.
When I use those push pins, all my door panels are already cracked/have a gap for them to slip into. Or I make the crack a little bit bigger with a Dremel. If you use the plastic push pins or the OEM metal wire clips, here is the best door panel removal tool ever. https://www.harborfreight.com/panel-...ers-63699.html
I sure hope I do not have to take my door panels off enough, that I need to install them with screws.
It'll be so fast and easy, you'll look for excuses to pull them.
I did find two cracks, one in each panel, and in the same spots, but I bet that double bubble epoxy would fix them from behind.
As to the screw choice, Philips or socket head low profile, could even slightly counter sink the top most visible ones, build up the back side so the screw doesn't go through.
A lot of cold weather till Spring, and I'll be wanting to "do stuff". I'm not dissatisfied with my current door panels, but I am mildly curious as to how these would look on my doors. I don't have to have a Texas Flag on them, but it pleases me to include it, though there are options. Who knows, I might like them better then than what I have now. My interior is factory candy apple red, and these panels are the originals, and I thought the colors were pretty close, no clash.
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 12, 2025 at 10:01 AM.
You can over lay that area with some thing sheet metal (white part) reinforcement. And secure accordingly, JB weld.
See the 2 notches? That helps the panel clear the 2 bolts of the door handle L bracket. And attach the panel closer to the inner door skin. The arm rest covers that area anyway.
Remove the arm rest, dremetl knotch and then put arm rest back on.
The sheet metal trick helps reinforce the the tab below the finger cup and that area takes all the force of a hard door closer/slammer. Below the end of thb was broke. I was experimenting with a busted to hell panel and making a set of metal reinforcement piece for a FTE member.
Yes I should or made the metal wrap around the L/H part also, like the right side.
... reinforce the tab below the finger cup and that area takes all the force of a hard door closer/slammer
My doors were once just "pull and a click" shutters. The seals were flat from years and years parked shut, and between them and the rust in the door bottoms, was not a lot of air pressure built up when shutting. Now with new seals and new doors, it is a big difference if just one window is rolled down about 5", then they shut with just a firm pull, but if all glass is shut, it's a much firmer pull required. I'm not sure it does my speakers any good, but I have new ones on the shelf waiting. I try to remember to open the driver side kick panel vent too. With my wood based DIY door panels, I have stout well anchored door pulls. I know well why my '07 has those rubber pressure releasing flaps in the cabs back wall.
Nothing to do with door pulling, but also my DIM wood based panels have solid wood arm rests under the textured black vinyl, harder on elbows than the OEM arm rests.
Fair chance I try them out.
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 12, 2025 at 10:05 AM.
My doors were once just "pull and a click" shutters. The seals were flat from years and years parked shut, and between them and the rust in the door bottoms, was not a lot of air pressure built up when shutting. Now with new seals and new doors, it is a big difference if just one window is rolled down about 5", then they shut with just a firm pull, but if all glass is shut, it's a much firmer pull required. I'm not sure it does my speakers any good, but I have new ones on the shelf waiting. I try to remember to open the driver side kick panel vent too. With my wood based DIY door panels, I have stout well anchored door pulls. I know well why my '07 has those rubber pressure releasing flaps in the cabs back wall.