died, bad fuel?
Seems like I've had an injector do that before, years ago. The first issue I ever had, the one that brought me to FTE. And, IIRC, it didn't throw a code either. And, it lost power as well, sputtering to a stop under load. Then, the replacement injector burned out, and the one after that. Finally figured out that it was a fuel pressure issue.
But that wouldn't explain the pump only running 5 seconds, would it? Explains the other symptoms - the rough idle, running poorly, losing power, but not the 5-second pump. I know I sound dumb, but i power the relay through the inertia switch, what will I see? The pump will start running, or it won't start running? Will it continue to run until I cut the power? If it doesn't run, does it mean the relay is bad? If the pump runs does it mean the relay is good? If so, where would I go next to figure out why the pump cuts out?
I've forgotten so much since I quit driving these trucks.
If no fuel is reaching the pump, it should still run. If the pump outlet were blocked, the pump's internal pressure relief valve would open at 100 psi, but the pump would still run.
Fuel pressure would be a better way to understand what is going on. And you would need fuel in the secondary canister to test if the injector is leaking combustion gas.
Other than that, I have no help here.
I got help to haul my trailer to the dump, then to my storage lot. Then pulled my truck to the lot where I can work on it. After Jack reminded me, I'm pretty convinced that I have a bad injector(s). Not sure why the pump quits making noise after a few seconds of key-on, but I don't think that's my primary problem, if it's a problem at all. Like I said, when I hooked up the alternate fuel bucket, I see major circulation for about 20 seconds when I turn the key on. I assume that's because the pump is running.
Otherwise, the symptoms are exactly like an injector pumping compression into the fuel rail. Questions, mostly because my brain fog has forgotten most of what I knew (which was never much) about these trucks in the 2+ years since I've been driving and working on themL
What's the easy way to tell which injectors are not working? I don't have my OBDII adapter, and it's not throwing codes.
Is this an 0-ring failure, or do I need to replace the injector(s).
I wonder what could have caused the failure, if not fuel pressure? Specfiically, this truck has no turbo boost. After it got stolen and the thieves screwed up the y-pipe, I've never gotten the replacement sealed up. Just me being lazy and old because I never use the truck except for short trips to Home Depot and light loads. Always made it there and back just fine. However, the 4 trips to the dump pulling the trailer were heavier loads, Nothing close to the truck's capacity (with turbo), but heavier than the HD trips. And, this last one was heavier than the others. Was I just straining it too much, enough to blow the injector? I never had it over 2500RPM, probably not much over 2000. I just drove slow, no freeways.
With the secondary filter out but fuel in the canister, after about 20-30 seconds of jumping the starter from the passenger inner fender cable, you should see bubbles if an injector is compromised. I don't remember which hole in the bottom tells the side, but some have disconnected one fuel line going to the heads at the secondary canister, put a glove on the line taped tight, and watched for the glove to "balloon", telling which head has the bad injector.
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