You talking that bracket and want a 2nd one to put on the other side to mount a 2ndd cooler too right?
I would think junk yard as I dont think Ford would even have it any more because of the age of the truck.

But I would call it the grille center support bracket from upper radiator support to the lower support.
From the junk yard you can even grab the hardware, screws & clip nuts.
Dave ----

 

Just go to the hardware store and buy some of this to make what you need. You could make another vertical piece and then two cross pieces to make a mount for it. Paint them black and you won't see it through the grille.

 

Update: On the road again.

First, Dave, thank you for your trans oil cooler mounting advice! Works great. Only next time I’d mount it about 1/2 inch higher for better access to the lower hose clamp. I didn’t notice during the mock up, but as it sits now, I’d have to pull the bumper off to get to the clamp.

Otherwise, got through the initial 1/2 hour cam break in at 2 - 2.5k rpm with only a couple issues. First I forgot to plug the choke into a 12v source so it was pretty rich for the 1st 10 minutes until I figured that out. And second, the fuel pump shut off so I had to hot wire the pump to complete the run in.

I believe the fuel pump quit because of a bad connection with the oil pressure cut off switch. I cleaned the thick old factory grease out of the connection and it’s working now, but I’d like to find a replacement oil pressure cut off switch for the parts bin. However, both NAPA and O’Rilley’s tell me my ‘86 460 doesn’t have an oil pressure cut off switch so I’m not having much luck finding a replacement. Maybe it’s called something else? In the photos you can see the switch lives just under the oil pressure sender. If anyone knows what it’s called or has an old part number I can cross reference please share

Meanwhile, just putting miles on it and fine tuning the new carb. Need to tighten up the accelerator pump to see if I can eliminate a small stumble on the initial throttle tip in, and adjust the choke some more. Seems a lot more cold blooded with the aluminum intake. I also plan to re-install the AC soon so will probably have a few questions about that.

 

When I converted my ‘84 351W to an electric fuel pump, I used a NAPA OP6616. Would that work?:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html





It has 1/8” pipe threads and two 1/4” spade terminals.

Have you tried searching parts for an earlier or later model year? Maybe your chassis is a late 86 so it might show for 87. Or your chassis might actually be earlier but the motorhome wasn’t completed and titled until 86. I ran into that on a Class C years ago.

 

Can you bring the picture of the connector to NAPA... I'm sure the catalog has a pigtail for that. LMC Truck might be a place to check too. Maybe you just asked the wrong counter person... Or see if you can install a female terminal on the switch and make your own new connections.

I asked google,
https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+...t=gws-wiz-serp

Another option, see if this company has terminals,

 

I wounder if a oil light sender would work?
I guess that might work backwards
Dave ----

 

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ele...p-control.html

I see a switch there on page 102. Been looking around the web, searching for one, looks like a basic oil pressure switch....

https://frsport.com/products/airtex-...gM2Oq7F-o1WWp9

 

That is what I was thinking but the switch I believe opens with pressure and closes with ho pressure to turn the light on but could be wrong?
Dave ----

 

or the light stays on until the engine is running.

doesn’t the oil light stay on a few seconds after starting. Going to have a sleep on this.

unless it’s described in the EVTM.

he has a oil pressure sending unit, for the gauge.

 

You are looking for an oil pressure switch that only supplies power when the engine is running? This is what I used for an engine hour meter.

 

Thank you all so much for the oil pressure switch ideas. I don’t know why the old stock plug and switch have three pins, but there are only two wires going to it. so it should be simple enough to cut off the old plug and crimp on spade connectors if i want to run a new two terminal switch.

Meanwhile, new problem. I’m running out of gas trying to pull past 3k rpms. Feels like it’s running out of gas just as the secondaries open. The secondary float level is good and the linkage isn’t binding so I’ve come to suspect the 32 GPH rated external electric Facet 40106 cube style fuel pump that I’m running isn’t keeping up with the 750 cfm carb and 460 motor. It seemed small for the job when I installed it about 4 years ago, but it was good enough. until now.




I’ve been running the old stock fuel return, but thinking now I’ll need to step up to a higher capacity fuel pump and proper fuel pressure regulator. Open to any suggestions you might have.

 

I wonder if that 3 prong switch has a common / NO / NC for each prong? And you only need to use the COM / NO? part of it?

If you can try and close off the return and run your test again as it may be returning too much fuel.
BTW is this return a 3 nipple filter or the hot fuel return?
If the filter type the return has to be at the top.
I dont know the HFBP type.
Dave ----

 

Thank you. I’ve got the old stock hot “fuel vapor separator valve” fuel return unit on there now. here’s a pic. As i recall they came in different orifice sizes. It’s been a long time ago, but I bought the one you see in the pic direct from Ford. It has a blue dot which means small return orifice.

 

Update, I replaced the little Facet cube fuel pump with a Quick Fuel 30-105QFT. I think that will take care of any fuel starvation issues. Next up get the AC running again. I think I’ll start a new thread for that.

 

That pump should be good.
You using a relay to supply power to it?
Them vane pumps take a lot of power to run them.
I have run Holley blue pumps with a regulator for racing with a relay and never had a problem.
Dave ----