^ what he said on both the ALUM radiator, I run an ALUM /Plastic in my truck from thing Rock Auto, and the heat pulling a hill as my van, 76 E350 460 / C6 pulling a 2 car trailer, the temp would go up some but never to the point I was worried it would spit coolant out. Once you leveled out or start down the other side the temp went right back to normal using factory gauges.
As long as you have a coolant recovery tank if it spits out a little it should pull it back in when it cools down.
BTW work any motor a little harder and the temp will go up that is normal.

As for letting the heat out when you come to a stop why not open the hood? It is small unlike our pickup trucks large ones.
If you add a scoop you may want to check air flow over the area you plan to mount the hood.
A poor mans wind tunnel is to tape ribbons to the area, hood, and take it for a drive and see if they all head to the windshield or back to the front / grille.
The other thing is any heat that comes out before the vents at the bottom of the windshield will be pulled into the HVAC system and you will get that heat coming inside the truck.
My 02 Durango has a rubber seal between the cowl and hood that keeps falling off and the heat from the engine bay gets pulled right into the HVAC system so I have to run the AC most of the time or it gets too hot inside the SUV.
Thought I would bring it up before you go cutting holes in the hood.

Also if you put scoop out at the front edge of the hood air may take that path as it is easier than going through the radiators.
As lot of cars & trucks with AC use a seal across the radiator support to hood to force air through the radiators and not over the top of them.
Think of air as water it will take the easiest path and it may not be the path you want it to.
Food for thought.
Dave ----

ps a lot of the "ram air" hood scoops on the factory cars did not "ram air" as they were not in the air flow path but under it as it bounced off the front edge of the hood.
They say the "Cowl induction" was the best as it was a high PSSI area and could force air into the carb on the engine bay.
That is where NASCAR pulled air from.
And yes I have 1 of them "ram air" hood cars and why I know this after looking into it for my drag car. All of them is to pull in cool air not ram air.

 

Found the thread about the oil pan leak:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pan-leak.html


Permatex 84334 Fuel tank sealer for the win!:

https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...xy-putty-1-oz/

 

Update time.

Thank you for the Permatex 84334 Fuel tank sealer follow up. I’m gonna try an aluminum radiator but keep the stock fan / shroud set up. Yes popping the hood to let the heat out when parking on a hot day is very effective in preventing fuel vaporization and rich re-starts… but it’s both annoying and alarming when you realize you forgot to secure the hood before entering the freeway and it’s been on the safety catch for the last 10 miles! Some kind of passive engine bay vent /cut hole in hood solution is out in the future. Otherwise got a real clean simple and cheap “C” style alternator mount, and keeping the stock AC and power steering brackets which are all painted up and ready for installation.

Still on the fence about the AC condenser. Is it better to try and clean the one I have for the conversion to the new refrigerant (R134?) or is it better to get a new one? Appreciate any advice here. Ironically I just posted in another tread about how crappy new parts are… maybe that’s my answer right there! lol.

Meanwhile, it’s almost time to install the water pump. I’ve got a new Gates pump, powder coated backing plate, Felpro gasket set, new grade 8 bolts, permatex right stuff sealer for the timing cover / backing plate / water pump sandwich, and ARP thread sealer for the bolts that go through into water. I plan to trial fit the water pump and trim the intake / water pump bypass nipples just enough so that the hose between the two can be replaced in the field without disassembly.

Any other advice, tips or tricks for 460 water pump installation success?



Here’s the alternator bracket. Since one of the alternator bolts attaches to the water pump, while the motor is still on the stand I’ll need to trial fit the alternator bracket, alternator, pulleys and alternator belt at the same time as the water pump to make sure everything lines up. Need to check if it’s a wet bolt since It appears the alternator bracket bolt in question may be long enough. Not real wild about the three different sized allen head bolts. I’d be tempted to replace them with regular hex heads but the allen head bolts fit into a countersink in the bracket for centering. 12 point bolts might fit the countersink, but I can’t find any to try.

 

Use anti-seize on all threads and the long Alt bolt

 

On the AC condenser, if you did not have a compressor failure in the old system, the old condenser should be fine to use. You do need to clean the whole system out if you are going to use PAG oil in your conversion. If you are going to use ester oil in the conversion, it is compatible with the old mineral oil the r12 used, and if there is some mineral oil still in the system it will do no harm. You need to get the mineral oil out if you are going to use PAG oil.

I would not worry about different orifices or anything like that. I would make sure and pull it and clean out the screen in the orifice. You might have to adjust the pressure switch some after the conversion, but that is usually it.

 

A said if the compressor did not blow up keep what you have as the ones you get now are not a direct bolt in, you have to make spacers for the bottom to hole it out from the support.
I had to replace mine because it had a crushed tube.

They do make a AC system flush that works pretty good as I had to flush mine because of too much oil added.
Dave ----

 

Yes, anti-seize, thank you. I should retake the photo with a can of anti-seize and a torque wrench..

However, question about the wet bolts (that go into the water jackets) —> is it okay to mix anti-seize and ARP thread sealer together, or do you need to choose one or the other?

 

Thank you for the AC comments. Since the A/C was working before I took it apart to pull the motor I’ll go ahead and run the old condenser and evaporator. The AC kit I have includes the compressor, expansion valve, dryer, PAG 46 oil, and a bunch of o-rings. I found a new suction line separately, but I still think I still need valve adapters for the R134a fittings plus the cleaning solution for the conversion to R134 and PAG oil.

Since it has an expansion valve I’m not sure the system has an oraface tube or screens to clean.. but the suction line does have a little square box with a window in it. Maybe I need to examine that more closely.

I kept expecting the AC to leak oil when took it apart but I didn’t see it. Maybe the old oil is in the bottom of the condenser and I’ll find it when I go to clean it? or maybe it mostly leaked out of the system over the years. There was some oily build up around the compressor, but amazingly it was still blowing cold after all those years.

 

You will find most of the oil in the compressor if you turn it over and dump it out. You might have to turn it a little bit to get it all out. I would save all your old components. Do not be surprised if your new stuff fails quickly, it seems to be a common theme with new or rebuilt parts lately.

I doubt you will have a orifice tube if you have a expansion valve. Or do you have dual A/C coils? With a expansion valve on one and a orifice tube on the other? Is this the RV and does it have dual coils?

 

I can't remember what I did. maybe one of the experts can answer... But, I don't think you can mix the stuff together.

 

Correct. Only use thread sealer for the bolts that go into coolant passages.

 

I thought our truck only had orifice tubes at least mine does.
Unless maybe an RV set up but I think even my 02 Durango with dual systems has 2 orifice tubes, 1 front & the other rear.

Replace the dryer because it is opened and old and check / clean / replace the orifice tube and you should be good
I have been chasing a leak I just cant find so I just keep recharging and checking for the leak(s).
Dave ----

 

I would think so but I haven’t worked on anything older than my ‘87 in a long time.

If replacing all the o-rings and the visible parts don’t have an oily dirt sticking to them the next step is the evaporator which is impossible to see leaking. I assume you have put dye in the system?

 

My system is a 81 so it is pretty early on but I think the 70's system used the expansion valve with the prob that went to the coil.

My system has all new parts even all the hoses but 1 as I could not find a replacement.
O-Rings have been changed to the green ones. I have added dye and checked with a black light even the evop drain in case the new one was leaking as it should run out with the condensate.
I bought a cheap sniffer but have not used it yet but will after I recharge the system when it gets warmer.
I have even given thought to farming this out and let a shop deal with it and if it does not hold they get to fix it again free!
Dave ----

 

Most of the systems I have messed with (not many) that had dual cooling, they used the expansion valve and let the compressor run all the time it was in A/C mode. I believe this is so you can have independent cooling frnt and rear. If you use a fixed orifice that cuts the compressor on and off for cooling, it looks to me like the front and rear system would get in a argument as to if the compressor should run or not. I haven't mess with dual systems too much, and the control system for those is a little bit over my head.