On the sender some come with sealer on them so use nothing

On the stat I drill a 1/8" hole in the flat part of the stat and put it at the top if on the front of a head or bock.

Plugs if going into cast heads I go dry but in ALUM I used a little silver paste.
Dave ----

 

Yea, that young kid with the purple hair, he would know

 

The temp sender I used on my 6.9l had the coating on it. No Teflon tape needed. No leaks.

 

I may have posted it here before. Back about 2004 my son worked at Advance Auto Parts after high school that summer. He came home one day and said, "Dad, do you believe some of those guys say this is there dream job". So some of them purple haired young gentleman may have know... When I had my Alt tested by the young guy at a local Advance, and it was bad, he looked it up and told me Napa down the street a mile had one.

So they're not all bad.

 

Thanks all for the good advice! Update: solid progress over the weekend. Main things left for the initial start up include, Torque plugs, cap and wires, set timing, sort out the vacuum lines, rad hoses, fill rad, add 5 quarts of fluid to the empty transmission, get and install a new throttle cable, and figure out how to mount and install the new transmission cooler. Then, assuming it runs, finish up the A/C, install cruise control, and rig up a relay to supply 12v to the automatic choke.

But the best part is I’m leaving town for 2 weeks next week so work and packing are going to take priority this week. So the first start may very well have to wait until after I get back. Last thing I want to do at this point is rush it.

 

Great progress. Do you have enough oil and filters to do two or three oil and filter changes if you want to make sure you flush the inside of the engine, after it runs ?

Sorry it's been a while, did you replace any internal engine parts ?

 

Yes, it’s a full rebuild. I have “Driven” break in oil and the plan is to run the break in oil for the first 400 miles, then run high zinc oil after that.

 

Is that the current recommendations for a rebuilt engine ?

Not to start a long discussion, but After the 20 minutes cam break-in, I was taught to let it idle and verify timing was correct, shut it down, change oil and filter. Then after 50-100 miles change oil and filter, after 500 miles, change oil and filter.
But that was back in 1975, I also did that same in 2012, when I put a new short block in a car in the driveway.

Just want to give you a good change for the best outcome.

Edit,
I searched Driven and searched break in oil. Looks like you made the right choice. But me being me, I wonder if there is still benefit from that first oil change after cam break in... That drain also removes the "assemble lube" .

 

I have also left the break in oil in and driven ...... well raced it as that was in my drag motor.
Heck when I sold the car it still have the break in oil still in it LOL
I dont think I had 5 miles on the oil at 1/4 mile at a time.

Assemble lube I cant see as a big deal leaving in what can it hurt?
As far as I know it is made to stick and not drip off like oil.
I think it is like STP or Motor Medic, really thick stuff.

If that worried just change the filter, add 1 qt of high zinc oil and motor on.
Dave ----

 

It wouldn’t hurt anything to change it more often. I bought a new 2020 Fusion with the service plan. I wanted the oil changed after a couple hundred miles and the dealership wouldn’t do it until the first oil change which was at 7,500 miles so I did it myself. I did not want that assembly lube and whatever metal was there from break-in to be in the engine that long. Having said that I did all the preventative maintenance I could including changing the oil every 3,000-4,000 miles after having the 2.9L engine rebuilt in the Bronco II and the cam still went flat around the 60K mile mark.

 

You had to say it, hope that doesn't jinks him... LOL Hopefully those bad cams are behind us now. Had a friends 1970 Chevy Nova 350 have a flat cam lob back about 1974.

 

Well, the rebuild was three years ago so

 

The new stuff that uses full Syn. oil is different than our trucks.
Wife had the same thing, we will not change the oil as it is not close to being due on her 2013 Subaru.

Newest thing I drive is a 2007 Crown Vic and it still uses the old dino oil and gets changed every 3000 miles now that I have the car. But before me the oil was changed once a year as it only avg 1200 mile in a year and why it only have 30,000 on it.
I bought it a year ago Feb with 21,500 miles and the first month I put more miles on it than it had in 1 year. And where did I take it but to Brooklyn NY with all the potholes and back to NC the first trip, NJ and SC for 2nd the 3rd trips.
Dave ----

 

Following mfgrs guidance on break in oil is probably just fine. There's an oil filter and it's job is to remove any harmful bits that may be present. If it doesn't make it to the filter it's stuck in the pan. 500 miles is typical. But who knows what they do at the plant. They probably run some break in oil there and then drop that and refill for your first recommended change. If you are building motors yourself then you can change it as you like. If the engine oil looks good and clean on the stick and has viscosity and protective additives you're good.

 

What better place to start a long discussion?

It’s pretty much down to carb linkage and mounting the trans cooler. And for the record, I don’t care what all the books say, a 23” throttle cable doesn’t fit a ‘86 E350 with 460. The bend is too tight. You need a 31” cable which is harder to find. And don’t waste money on the Ford downshift kit that Holley sells, the new 4160 won’t work with the stock C6 downshift linkage anyway. Save your money for a cable style downshift retrofit kit.

Fortunately I can live without the downshift hooked up and the 31” throttle cable is on order. However i need advice on mounting the trans cooler. I’ve seen solutions where you stick zip ties though the fins of the condenser but not sure if that’s really such a good idea?

In the photo you can see a black vertical brace for the grille and the stock transmission cooler was mounted to it. Since the holes to install a second one on the driver side are there, I’d like to find another one so I can mount the cooler on brackets between them, but I don’t know what to call it for a successful search.

Appreciate any advice on the subject you can share.

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