4r100 conundrum
its never been perfect, we are talking about an old 4 speed but i liked how firm and consistently it always shifted, it reminded me of my rebuilt and upgraded c6 but even more "sure shifting".
Saturday i hit wot at 65mph where it usually downshifts to 2nd at about 4700 very quickly and the truck pulls hard to 4950 and shifts to third about 74 mph, this time it hit 5k, rev limited like 4 times then sorta eased about 50% in then slammed the last bit all at once.
(Normal)
4->2
2300->4700 (linearly but very firm)
(new and improved)
4->2
2300->rev limit for about 1.5 seconds-> some resistance->violent slam into 2nd at about 4800rpm
This also has come with a very awkward shift from park/neut-> with a real slow engagement to about 75% then the last 25% of 1st slamming in when i touch the throttle.
P/N-> 1st -> .75% -> light accel -> slam 100% into 1st
Upon normal accel it rows through the gears almost like normal, well within my tolerance and what this goofy a$$ computer has always done.
so, under light load with no powered down shifts needed, its normal, it also down shifts from O.D and manually into 2nd like normal.
N->
normal soft accel (normal)
normal soft decel (normal)
4th -> 3rd via O.D (normal)
3rd-> 2nd via column (normal)
2nd -> 1st (not possibly due to *****ty 10th gen shifter)
i should note, i have an sctx4 ive not done a custom tune with just just the built in adjustments to massage it into driving better via the following settings
1-2 shift pressure increased slightly
2-3 shift pressure increased slightly
3-4 shift pressure increased a lot (due to a 10°f heat rise with each extremely, stupidly, horrendously, slow factory O.D shift)
All shift points adjusted to shift to about 4900 +/- a bit so it never hits the decreased rev limit until now.
Rev limit 5000
I tow 4500lbs often and watch my trans temps carfully, its normally in the 170° F range and i ease off it it gets above that. On 2 occations it has hit 280° F. Once, i was intoxicated in a feild, second, i was towing 5k lbs up hill, and already 20 minutes late to a dead line I'd already pushed back. Both times i checked the fluids and no symptoms were observable.
I dont thing this trans is work completely out after 200k, it doesnt slip, shudder, skip, smell or look burned, so i think its the valve body.
As stated before i have had my c6 in my 78 rebuilt but but that was a 2 mechanic, 2000 dollar many, many month long ordeal so i dont want to do that anymore. I know i can install a valve body and stuff easily so i want to buy one, all the recommended parts/upgrades and do that as a first attempt.
This is where i would love to have some advice, honestly anything would help so thank you much!!
Once you have the codes we can diagnose the problem. Without the codes, start buying parts until you get lucky or run out of money.
Im not great at computers but ill figure out what software to purchase when it comes in i guess. It should be here tomorrow thanks to the jungle site having one in stock.
thanks for that, i thought the O.D light would flash if it knew it had a problem.
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if youll please take a few minutes to watch this and tell me what you think youll be saving me days/weeks of headache trying to diag and have this fixed myself.
if you have any questions, let me know
Recharge the battery
Clear codes and retest
Check all the grounds in the chassis, mainly those behind both kick panels
Codes like GEM module battery low are a sure giveaway for a there is a rash of codes to follow













