engine block serial number code for 71 302
FTE Community Team
Joined: Dec 2023
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From: sussex county, nj
NC
dang i was thinking about moving down there,checking with DMV about re titling my model a down there from jersey , i got told i would have to lift the body off the frame so they could see the vin stamp.what??? do you know whats involved in taking the body off the frame for a clear view of the vin stamp under the left firewall leg and above the left rear frame kick ? they didn't care ,we stayed in jersey.
op good luck with that 302 sounds like a normal every day save the dizzy issue of which i would throw away the stoker go with a updated after market electronic ,
dang i was thinking about moving down there,checking with DMV about re titling my model a down there from jersey , i got told i would have to lift the body off the frame so they could see the vin stamp.what??? do you know whats involved in taking the body off the frame for a clear view of the vin stamp under the left firewall leg and above the left rear frame kick ? they didn't care ,we stayed in jersey.
op good luck with that 302 sounds like a normal every day save the dizzy issue of which i would throw away the stoker go with a updated after market electronic ,
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: charlotte, nc
the vin was on passenger side about 8/9 inches forward of the forward bolt on engine mount flange, about middle of beam numbers/letters 1/4 inch high easy to miss if covered in grease
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: charlotte, nc
this is original setup before trying npd pickup i had 500 fluctuation on tac, i attribute that to crack in plastic insulator below magnet
this is with npd pickup when i set timing with this unit i had 1500-2000 fluctuation on tack
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: charlotte, nc
fluctuation was so bad i thought i had installed reluctor incorrectly so i put old pickup back in to check, the timing was off by 12 degrees so i retimed it for the original pickup and was back to 500 rpm fluctuation. again which i attribute to the crack in the insulator plastic. i dont know what happened i was thinking that the 1974-79 pickup should work,
D1OE-AA – 6015-AA OM1 this is the code on my engine
D1OE-AA – 6015-AA OM1 this is the code on my engine
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,192
Likes: 4,804
From: Burbank, WA
The 0M1 is the block casting date. year/month/day. 1970, December 1. It tells us nothing we didn't already know, it's a 71 302. The rest is just the casting identifier, and likely millions of them look just like that and went into every Ford product that the 302 was an option in. We already know your engine was installed into some Ford brand vehicle (not a Mercury) built in San Jose in 1971.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
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From: San Jose, CA
The fluctuation was only in RPM, or did you put a timing light on and see if the timing was fluctuating?
One will affect the other.
Some things that can happen inside a distributor are:
The wires can interfere with the advance mechanism.
The advanced mechanism, both vacuum and mechanical, can wear out and flop around. Especially the mechanical.
The magnetic pick up can be at its limit, the old one, even the new one.
Having the timing change when you change parts is absolutely normal. Completely part of the game. especially given the cavalier attitude the manufacturers have these days with consistency, concerning the old parts. Stuff changes…
But having the timing fluctuate means somethings wrong inside the distributor.
One will affect the other.
Some things that can happen inside a distributor are:
The wires can interfere with the advance mechanism.
The advanced mechanism, both vacuum and mechanical, can wear out and flop around. Especially the mechanical.
The magnetic pick up can be at its limit, the old one, even the new one.
Having the timing change when you change parts is absolutely normal. Completely part of the game. especially given the cavalier attitude the manufacturers have these days with consistency, concerning the old parts. Stuff changes…
But having the timing fluctuate means somethings wrong inside the distributor.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Dec 2023
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From: sussex county, nj
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
I suppose we can add one more potential source of oscillating idle/timing.
If there is vacuum reaching the vacuum advance canister, if it's pulsing it would wreak havoc on timing.
But remember, we're only discussing ignition timing on the possibility that variations in timing could also cause fluctuations in idle speed.
Paul
If there is vacuum reaching the vacuum advance canister, if it's pulsing it would wreak havoc on timing.
But remember, we're only discussing ignition timing on the possibility that variations in timing could also cause fluctuations in idle speed.
Paul
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: charlotte, nc
ok i redid npd pickup and moved wires cleaned up so no obstructions, it ran at 40 degrees btdc and shut down when i got to 20 degrees btdc, ran it 2 more time with same result. tried a pickup from 1974 e100 302, that did not work either. interestingly i came across pickups for 1971-73 jeep, the wire colors were exactly the same as my original pickup. i remembered that amc and jeep both used autolite and motorcraft distributors. i checked to see what size motors were available for jeeps those years, turns out there was a 304 available, so for 30 bucks and free shipping i took a chance. had to do a little sanding to get it to fit all the way down on the shaft of the dist plate but it worked, awesome. but now am back to original issue which was fluctuating rpm. no timing light did not fluctuate so started looking at other possibilities. the egr is frozen closed, vacuum on vac retard could run a vacuum cleaner and im thinking vacuum leak somewhere. so currently working that point
will keep you posted
will keep you posted
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
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From: San Jose, CA
Thanks for the update. But when you say these parts “didn’t fit” what exactly didn’t work?
I ask because you mentioned that before with other replacement parts.
and for this last one, what exactly did you sand down?
Also, in all of this, I don’t think we have touched on one common fault. A failing tachometer.
They often fail, and some don’t work right out of the box. So if everything is running properly, and you can get it timed properly, and the engine does not seem to be hunting up and down, then your tach is probably busted.
Speaking of hunting up and down, I forget if you mentioned this, but when the tach is fluctuating is the engine speed changing in unison?
This would have been especially noticeable with one of your previous attempts, which resulted in a 1500 RPM fluctuation.
I ask because you mentioned that before with other replacement parts.
and for this last one, what exactly did you sand down?
Also, in all of this, I don’t think we have touched on one common fault. A failing tachometer.
They often fail, and some don’t work right out of the box. So if everything is running properly, and you can get it timed properly, and the engine does not seem to be hunting up and down, then your tach is probably busted.
Speaking of hunting up and down, I forget if you mentioned this, but when the tach is fluctuating is the engine speed changing in unison?
This would have been especially noticeable with one of your previous attempts, which resulted in a 1500 RPM fluctuation.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: charlotte, nc
well the jeep pickup had a 1/32 or 1/16 lip inside the collar so the pickup would catch on the interior shaft of the dist, i filed it out and it slipped over and down the shaft. i got ready to put the wire retaining clip on to hold it in place and discovered it had not gone down far enough for clip to fit it recess. i determined the metal rim on bottom of pickup was thicker than mine so i sanded it with emory until clip could slip into recess. made sure everything moved smoothly and fired it up.
saw somebody using carb cleaner to spray looking for leaks found 2. pulled off carb and have ordered new gaskets. checked egr valve it was clogged so ordered egr cleaner, still soaking. looked at cast iron space and one of the 2 holes is clogged. it too is soaking. spacer is in good shape but i am trying to determine if both of the holes are supposed to be fully open or it there is reduced hole like on the egr.
tach is all good
yes when the tach is fluctuating the engine speed changing in unison
thats about where i am now. can take pics if needed
saw somebody using carb cleaner to spray looking for leaks found 2. pulled off carb and have ordered new gaskets. checked egr valve it was clogged so ordered egr cleaner, still soaking. looked at cast iron space and one of the 2 holes is clogged. it too is soaking. spacer is in good shape but i am trying to determine if both of the holes are supposed to be fully open or it there is reduced hole like on the egr.
tach is all good
yes when the tach is fluctuating the engine speed changing in unison
thats about where i am now. can take pics if needed
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
Sounds like progress! Glad it runs, and even though vacuum leaks are bad, it's good when you can find them!
The vacuum leaks can cause at least some fluctuations too, so get those sorted and see what happens.
Good luck!
Paul
The vacuum leaks can cause at least some fluctuations too, so get those sorted and see what happens.
Good luck!
Paul
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