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Just a heads up for us autotrans people. The little cable that connects the shifter to the indicator in the cluster is fragile under the best circumstances. After a couple of decades, it's as brittle as dry leaves.
At least the bracket on mine is as it just crumbled last night. After measuring and modeling to print a new one,
Maybe others already knew, but I just found out that a MIM replacement is available on amzn for $7.98. A search for DORMAN 83244 will get you there.
I post up pics when the part arrives.
Don't know why I bothered to look since mine is a manual, but I was curious.
I think it should be pointed out that searching that on amazon will get the MIM part in the search results, but the actual Dorman part is still plastic.
I searched up the Dorman part on google first and thought "wait a minute that looks like plastic", then went over to Amazon and the metal copies showed up. Don't order the Dorman part thinking that is is MIM. Of course depending on the quality of the MIM process and materials, the plastic may be just as sturdy.
I expected this to take a few hours. In reality, 20 minutes because I couldn't find my 5.5mm socket. I feel jinxed...too easy.
The RED arrow indicates that my ziptie fix did not work. That's a good thing, as there is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution that works.
You will need a 5.5mm socket for the single tiny bolt.
The GREEN arrow points to the loop on the end, and it's hook on the shifter column. I was afraid of this and expected a fuss & fight, but it just slipped off. Went back on just as easily.
In this pic, the RED arrow points to the remaining broken piece and the adjustment wheel. Both will have to be removed. The threads on the end of mine are messed up, but no major issues, just a tight spot.
NOTICE. The ferrule on the loop will not prevent the cable from being pulled into the tube. Use a small pair of hemostats, or whatever you have on hand to keep it in place.
The adjustment wheel is dimpled for a corresponding nub on the bracket that acts as a detent. You will need to insert the wheel into the bracket, then thread the cable through.
After that, it is just a matter of not crossthreading the plastic tube. Rotate the Adjuster until the tube is poking out the other side.
The remaining pics didn't turn out, but it is pretty simple.
Once everything is assembled on the cable, you'll want to make sure it is routed correctly with regard to the various wiring harnesses under the dash and around the steering column.
It has been in its position since the truck was built, so it holds its shape and springs back into its position.
Loop the end of the cable back on the hook on the shifter column, then attach the bracket to the steering column. There is a cavity on the base of the bracket that will slip over a boss on the steering column.
You'll see it when you take off the old one... and that's it. Adjust until the indicator is positioned to your liking.
Just remember, the other end of the cable is attached to plastic parts that are just as old and brittle. So do be careful pulling on it.
It won't necessarily leave you stranded, but how the problem reveals itself is quite unfriendly. Shift it into D and give it some go, only to have it rev followed by a bit of "oh no, what's wrong with it" panic before I caught on.
After that, it's a hassle shifting it back into park and counting the detents.
I'm just glad it went into neutral. Imagine thinking it was in reverse when it was actually in drive. That could be tragic.
You’ve got that right!
