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Did you see you have the wrong battery clamps on the wrong posts? There is a reason for manufacturers to label the posts and if you look closely, the clamps are labeled too.
This is why I don't like when people say the connector are good. Sure, the wrong clamps on the wrong posts would still pass current, but as far as I am concerned, it's not good.
Yeah, we have all been there and mistakes like this only happen once. The problem is, there has got to be some jerk to point that you screwed up. I am that jerk, but the next time you replace a battery clamp, you will remember that 'some butcher on the internet told me'.
Another issues I have that people do, only tighten the clamp till the clamp does not move on the post. Make certain the clamp bottoms out on the post. Your positive clamp is not bottomed out. The two ears on the clamps should have a gap, not like the clamp on the negative post. Remember, tighten enough that the clamp does not turn and no more.
There could be a good explanation for what you see here you know. That is a negative battery terminal on the negative post, it is a little big, but there is a small gap between the ears, it is just hidden by the battery recess in the picture. I wouldn’t do that. Now, that is a negative terminal on the positive post, the positive terminal broke and I had a negative terminal laying around to use until I could replace it. That is as wide as I could spread the ears and as far down as I could jam it down the post without possibly damaging the post. It is temporary. Okay, I should have fixed it, but I haven’t yet. You see?
You have red wires going to NEG- terminal.
You have two large wires going to the POS+ terminal.
One of those two large wires is identified as a negative cable, the other is identified as a positive cable.
Do you have dual or auxillary batteries?
Why the extra cable?
Okay, I don’t color coordinate, I use the wire I got. The two large #2 cables going to the positive battery post, the one with red shrink wrap is the hot line from the Alternator through a 50 amp breaker mounted on the side wall. The one with the black shrink wrap (I ran out of red) goes to a big terminal on the Solenoid. See, there is an easy explanation for everything, that is why it looks so good.
Look at the battery clamp. One clamp shows -. Why is that clamp used on the positive post? Why is the clamp labeled + on the negative post?
Do you know that the positive and negative posts of a battery a different diameter? Do you know that the positive battery clamp is designed to go on the positive battery post? To go even further, do you understand that the battery negative clamp is designed to go on the battery negative post?
You got the clamps on backwards. If you can't figure out that, I can see why you can't figure out a starter circuit. The last I checked, electrons are color blind and don't care what color the insulation is.
@wwhite , that is alright, you offered that the starter may have been tight out of the bow and @yardbird offered there may have been grease on the brushes of the new starter which might explain what happened in the parking, if all of the voltage drop tests check out as I expect them to. Did multiple, multiple starts today due to a balky carburetor and the engine spun like a top.
@1Butcher I tried to explain…Yes, negative and positive posts different diameters.. If you look closely, as with a magnifying glass, you will see that there is a negative battery terminal on the negative post. I broke the positive battery terminal of this set and put a negative terminal that I had lying around as a “temporary” fix by spreading the ears as much as I could, shoving it down on the post as much as I could and using an 1 1/2” grade 8 bolt to try and pull the ears together. It is temporary When I fix it I will post a picture. "
As I stated to @wwhite , I had to make multiple, multiple starts today because of carburetor problems and the engine spun like a top every time.
I see what you are saying and I can see that you could tighten the clamp so much that it broke. I can see that because the negative clamp is way too tight. Little things like that tell me the experience of who has been under the hood.
The positive clamp did not break trying to over tighten it. The clamps were big, they were oversized and would not tighten down without the ears touching. I ruined/ broke the clamp trying to widen the gap between the ears with a 4 1/2” grinder so it would tighten over the battery post. The negative clamp is not too tight though it may look like it because the gap between the ears is so small. But it had to be closed that much to tighten over the post because the clamps were too big. It is tightened down until it would not turn and then a little bit more.
I don’t have your type of experience, I have a different kind. I tell you and @wwhite what, I will put my voltage drop tests on the negative and positive starter circuit and engine ground up against any stock Ford circuits.
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