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Aug 13, 2025 | 08:12 PM

OZ Drives Ford

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Trying to get 1993 F250 lightning running again. Two years ago had a rebuild facility rebuild the long block. Then the nightmare bagan. Swapped the parts to the new engine finding the engine harness damaged in multiple places. Fixed all the issues with the harness and replaced the catalytic converter, distributor, spark plugs and wires. I stalled and hooked everything up. Primed an preset timing and started. It was hard to start but finally started and got it timed. A little over idle runs good but would sputter little and running throttle up it would back fire. Checked fuel pressure and it was zero. Replaced fuel regulator valve restarted and still no pressure and still shutters a little and backfires. Not sure what to check next. Wondering about distributor for sputtering but not sure about fuel pressure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Aug 13, 2025 | 08:23 PM

85e150

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Welcome to FTE!

Do you have the correct firing order? There were two served for these engines, although the usual victim is the 302 which sometimes got a 351W cam in the field, and then later was changed as an OEM change for some versions.

If you had no fuel pressure it wouldn't run for long at all. Double check that. You may have a fuel pickup issue, filter, fuel lines etc.

Is this still an EFI motor?

Aug 14, 2025 | 12:35 AM

wwhite

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Rebuild facility gave you a regular f150 block.

I put a lighting tune on my stock 94 ‘roller, it ran as you described.

is your long block have a flat tappet or roller cam?

Aug 14, 2025 | 07:09 AM

torq'ta 5 8

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From: N.W. Alabama

Did they give specs on cam installed.

Aug 14, 2025 | 07:20 AM

My4Fordtrucks

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OZ Drives Ford

Trying to get 1993 F250 lightning running again…..Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What vehicle do you have? Is it a F-250 or a Lightning? Lightning trucks were based on the F-150. What engine?

Quote:

Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8

Did they give specs on cam installed.

This is important information to know.

Aug 21, 2025 | 10:09 AM

Conanski

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

Its not possible to have a running engine with zero fuel pressure so you have a gauge problem, a common issue with those is that the hose doesn't have anything to depress the shrader valve in the fuel rail so the valve has to be removed and the gauge attached before the engine is started.

Backfiring can result from using the incorrect firing order.. it has always been 13726548 for the 351w but you can try the old 5.0 firing order as an experiment.
It can also result from cross firing between plug wires, cylinders 5&6 are particularly sensitive to this since they follow in the firing order so those wires need to be separated as much as possible.

Aug 21, 2025 | 12:07 PM

torq'ta 5 8

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From: N.W. Alabama

I luv how these re, re's never answer

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Aug 22, 2025 | 10:03 AM

1Butcher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Conanski

It can also result from cross firing between plug wires, cylinders 5&6 are particularly sensitive to this since they follow in the firing order so those wires need to be separated as much as possible.

I had this issue for decades. Raising a family, paying for a house, bread winner.... prevented me from find the issue. I replaced the ignition wires twice [not cheap junk too], plugs, etc. I was at my wits end and thought that this was not the problem, but how much time would it take to change my nicely run ignition wires so they look like ship? I pulled over at a rest area, jumbled the wires so they crossed, and got back on the freeway. WTF! That was it. I never would have thought that, but I know about this phenomenon. As I was driving, I had a smile on my face because the problem was fixed after decades of dealing with it. Then I thought I was just an F'n idiot because it took me decades to pull my head out of my A.

Everyone should know this.