Granted, but it is very simple, first, had to see if the battery was good, it checked out, second, had to see if the solenoid circuit and the solenoid were good, I was lead to believe that was it, that checked out, now the starter circuit has to be tested with a voltage drop test, if that checks out, the starter has to be checked. As for the length of the discussion for what to you appears to be a very straight forward question, there is nothing wrong with shooting the **** every once in a while.

Again, what brand Starter do you use?

Voltage Drop Test coming up, I have got money that says it is good.

Thanks
mjac

 

Isn’t it true…

mjac

 

I agree, as you do not have a starting issue any longer as you posted above the "engine is starting without issue".

I use factory starter rebuilt by local electrical shop that specializes in alternators, generators, starter motors, etc...

 

I never really thought of that, the circuit must be healthy if the starter and engine are spinning freely now, if it was a bad circuit the problem would still be there. Could the Starter have been tight right oiut of the box. I mean, I jumped that battery with a big deep cycle agm battery and for the first few times that starter would not engage, then suddenly it spun and spun the engine real well and the regular in truck battery has spun the starter and engine every time since, about 10 starts. I really don’t know what happened in that parking lot.

You must trust that rebuild shop.

Thanks
mjac

 

If everything is working as it should now, it may be OK. There's always the possibility the brushes weren't making good contact in the new starter, and after a few starts, they are.

Could have been brushes had grease/dirt on them, not seated well, ect.

 

That is something I would not know anything about, that is a new one on me, I never would have guessed that, I don’t have that sort of experience. I am sitting in that parking lot with no idea what was going on. So I decided to pour as much juice into that battery as I could to get home. If the jump would not have worked I was going to hook up the generator and the jump.

Thanks
mjac

 

If everything is working properly, the odds of knowing what happened are slimmer. More reasons why testing is important. My job at the dealership for 20+ years was to fix/diagnose problems that could not be fixed. Building a solid foundation with testing and the results of those tests, eliminated many things. Things I thought were bad but were not. Things I thought were good, was really bad. If/when the system started to work again, I can fall back on those tests to narrow down what it is not. Sometimes you got to guess, but facts will give you better odds when you do.

All too often connections that 'look' ok were considered 'good' but when testing, there were not. I got paid by what I did and I learned real quick it does not pay to think. I lost hours on a job because I thought the door latch pin bolted to the body was grounded. My test light did not light up, so I though the circuit was dead. What an idiot I was when I found out the door pin was not a ground. I have never ever assumed that again.

I truly believe you have a connection issue. Your thought process is seriously flawed and you took those ideas and ran with it. I have never had to 'break in' a starter. It either works or not. Sending your starter out to get fixed locally is a good idea. It's better for the people you live with and you know who is working on it. Sadly, those places are going away. If you find a place that does good work, when you pick up your fixed part, bring them some cookies/donuts/popsicles. I've never seen anyone turn down that. You could even put a smile on a mechanics face.

 

You think I could put a smile on your face…somehow I doubt this.

How do you expect me to think like you when I do not have those years of experience.

It ain’t going to kill me to do a positive and negative starter circuit voltage drop test, information will come out of it and replace some guessing and for no other reason, to just learn how to do a voltage drop test. I have already figured out a coupke of convenient ways to do them including getting a good contact on the battery posts with the leads.

shooting the ****
mjac

 

Put a smile on my face? Probably not, I'm just a grumpy old mechanic sharing what works for me. I too was young and a know it all. I was soon put in my place. I was told to sit down, shut up, and listen. I am glad that happened, but not at that time. If I did not have the mentors that made me listen, I would have continued to go on my merry way being a half a$$ mechanic.

I don't expect that anyone can think like someone else. We all are different with different life stories. I would think that you could listen to others and take what you want from their opinions. I would also expect that you may not agree with some clown on the internet like me, but you still could walk away not upset. I'm sharing what has worked for me and it's up to you to do what you want.

Although I believe I am right, I do understand my skills behind the keyboard are not top notch. There was a reason why they kept me behind the shop door/away from clients. Many service advisors steered clear of me, until they wanted it fixed. Many clients appreciated my talents. I run a small shop now and for the last 14 years, I have always been 4-6 weeks out. Why they wait that long I don't know. Probably because I do what I say and I say what I do. Those that did not like that have gone elsewhere.

 

You have got your own personalized shop now, going on 14 years?…Nice

Juuust remember, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Thanks
mjac

 

@Soup bean This is a picture of the terminals for what it is wortth…

Thanks
mjac

 

The battery may be new, but those battery terminal posts are dirty.
That lead should be shiny silver, not dull faded gray.

 

Those are not lead battery terminals, they are gold plated brass…coated with Dialectic Grease.

Thanks
mjac

 

Did you put the Dielectric grease on after the terminal clamps or before?

 

You are right, I have made that mistake before not knowing any better, I thought dialectic grease was a conductor and improved an electrical connection, someone implied that to me, but dialectic grease is an insulator and should be put on after the electric connection to prevent corrosion, not between the connection itself. I was going by what someone had said.

Thanks
mjac