Using all of the resources I could find, including the Kansas Highway Patrol VIN inspectors, everyone insisted I could find the VIN on the right frame rail in the engine compartment or perhaps under the cab. I spent hours cleaning the right frame rail in the engine compartment and under the cab trying to find the VIN stamped on the frame. No success. Without the VIN I would be unable to title or register the truck, period. I was beginning to think I'd be selling it for scrap. I had stepped back just looking at the passenger side of the truck thinking about my dilemma when, a spot low on the side of the frame just ahead of the rear shackle caught my eye. There it was! F70BVDE5053. I'm hoping this information will help someone that was in the same situation as me. Now if someone can decode it for me please?

There is the VIN clearly visible when you're looking in the right place.

Upside down but perfectly readable: F70BVDE5053.

 

Thanks for that update and pics. Any warranty plate on the driver door? Or white plastic certification lable with GVWR, axle rating etc?

F70BVDE5053

F70 = F700 gas

B = 370 4V "Lima" gas V8 (this code also used '73-'79 for the 300 1V HD six..... You do have a V8 right?)

V = Kentucky Truck Plant

DE5053 = 1979 numerical series, looks to be late '78 production.

 

Thanks for the decode.

The truck had no doors when I bought it. It has doors now but the warranty plate does not apply. It has a yellow certification label on the driver's side door jam that is not original. It is from Arkansas and only partly there. Can still read the axle ratings though.

 

Most states no title no scrap unless cut in pieces to be unrecognizable as a motor vehicle.

 

Time to look into rebuilding the carb on this old truck and I need some advice. The tag says 'D9TE AYB (BJ6). The front float bowl says ' MFD BY HOLLEY FOR MOTORCRAFT'. Using the tag info, I'm often referred to rebuild kits for Holley 4180 - 4190. Does that sound right? The numbers on the choke body repeat those on the tag (with a few additional numbers). Rebuilding this 4 BBL will be a bit of a challenge for me anyway so I sure want to get the right kit. Should I plan on needles and seats and floats? I should add the truck DOES run and drive but only using the choke; choke on to start, choke partially on it runs on FAST idle, choke off it dies. Any tips, pointers, suggestions, ideas or advice will be great fully appreciated.

Lots of dirt and grime on the intake manifold.

Carburetor is pretty dirty as well but it runs!

 

The number labeled "List" I what you need to find a rebuild kit.

 

LIST 8272-1

https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R8272

 

Thanks!

 

check for the build sheet under the seat ,it might have part numbers you could use for finding parts

 

My experience, and that of others with these old trucks, was that having to run choke is more a symptom of multiple vacuum leaks than of a carburetor issue. Also, these 70s carbs really really like their carb intake air temperature regulated to ~100°F, so running an aftermarket air filter, or a malfunctioning/disconnected air cleaner snorkel that doesn't mix heated and cold air anymore, will make it run like it's cold all the time.

Not to discourage disassembling and cleaning the carb, esp. if it's leaking fuel, but to lower your expectations of what you will actually fix after going through it.

On mine, the 15/32" (not 1/2") vacuum line to the brake booster under the cab was leaking severely. I believe the equivalent hose on your 370 is the one I've circled at the rear of the carb. Don't assume those cracks you see are only in the outer jacket. On mine, that hose was kind of a special size that I had to order in, for both the physical dimension and for high vacuum use; don't try to sub a heater hose, fuel hose, or EVAP hose for it.





More info on this hose is in the latter half of this post plus a couple posts further down.

You'd do well to scrutinize that front hose (the lower one circled in red) that appears to be for the PCV valve? Probably a molded hose, it may also be a leaker.

Also, if you're pulling the carb, and if yours is like mine (yours is 4V; mine is 2V), access to the RF base nut (LF as you stand in front of the engine) can only be accessed after you remove the governor bits, and it's a special nut that's 5/16-24 thread but only 7/16" hex. Don't lose those base nuts. You can buy them, but everybody want's $10-12 shipping for four nuts. The tricky one I'm referring to is the one above with the green arrow.

Also, don't final assemble the governor onto the carb and then expect to bolt the carb to the manifold: access, again. You can bench test with the governor on, but you have to remove it before mounting the carb to the manifold.

That is, if yours is like mine.

First pic in this post.

 

WOW! A lot of valuable insight! Would it not be possible to disconnect both of the hoses you have circled and plug the intake manifold to determine if either one or both of the hoses being disconnected make any difference in how the engine runs?

 

Sure, but judging from what I see, at least the booster hose will need replacement anyway, so whether it's a cause of lean or not, you may as well order its replacement. Capping the fitting is as much work as replacing those hose

Ford used a better grade of hose for the PCV hose, one that seems to remain more pliable for longer and it's less likely to be an issue, but I wanted to point it out anyway. IME, they more often leak at the belled ends where they've flared over the hose barbs, rather than outright cracking or "melting".

 

Thanks. I understand. The effort of getting into the engine compartment certainly warrants replacing the hoses. I was suggesting a means of troubleshooting before seriously considering a carb rebuild. I'll check on the availability of vacuum hoses.

The truck has the original air cleaner assembly labeled 370 4V but the snorkel hose and fitting from the exhaust manifold are both missing so getting warm air into the carb intake will require some additional work.

Thanks again for your insight and experience.

Ken

 

Yeah, sounds familiar. My truck had the snorkel, but the guts had been removed, and it took a while to find another 50-year-old snorkel with working guts -- they were frequently gutted by folks, I guess.

Carbs of the 60s, and later carbs on computer-controlled feedback loops, they can deal with minor issues like the wrong intake air or a minor vacuum leak (and set a code, if their OBD-1 system was equipped) but the late 70s stuff was really sketch: no OBD and lots and lots of mechanical and vacuum systems. Add decades and hose rot and they are really not fun to tweak, IMO.

Mine's a '73 and not too loaded with extras, and I was surprised to find how sensitive it is to intake air temp; I would have figured that would have been an issue in '75 or '76, but mine really is happier with the snorkel and working intake air waxstat.