Starter removal
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 131
Likes: 65
Starter removal
Hi everyone, Last week I picked up a 1949 F1 in real decent shape. A few minor problems that I am working on. I would like to remove the starter and have it rebuilt as it seems to have a dead spot from time to time. Two outside bolts easy to get at, then there is the bolt on the other side tucked in between the starter and the oil panWhat is the trick in getting at this bolt. . I have tried my 3/8th and quarter inch drive socket sets and cannot get into where this bolt is located. I am open to suggestions, thanks in advance
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
There are only 2 long bolts that go thru the starter body. Do not take them out, only loosen from the block plate and hold the starter together as you pull it out. For what it's worth, I put nuts on the threads of the long bolts as soon as I get it out. If the starter comes apart, you need three hands to reassemble it. 
Guess how I know that!
edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Guess how I know that!edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 827
Likes: 153
From: Port Ludlow, WA
When I bought my 51 with the 226 6cyl., it would lockup and not be able to run the starter. I had to put the truck in 4th gear and rock it back and forth to move from that spot.
It turned out to be the fiber timing gear.
Just something else to think about if the started rebuild doesn't solve your problem.
It turned out to be the fiber timing gear.
Just something else to think about if the started rebuild doesn't solve your problem.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 131
Likes: 65
There are only 2 long bolts that go thru the starter body. Do not take them out, only loosen from the block plate and hold the starter together as you pull it out. For what it's worth, I put nuts on the threads of the long bolts as soon as I get it out. If the starter comes apart, you need three hands to reassemble it. Guess how I know that!
edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Guess how I know that!edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 131
Likes: 65
When I bought my 51 with the 226 6cyl., it would lockup and not be able to run the starter. I had to put the truck in 4th gear and rock it back and forth to move from that spot.
It turned out to be the fiber timing gear.
Just something else to think about if the started rebuild doesn't solve your problem.
It turned out to be the fiber timing gear.
Just something else to think about if the started rebuild doesn't solve your problem.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 131
Likes: 65
There are only 2 long bolts that go thru the starter body. Do not take them out, only loosen from the block plate and hold the starter together as you pull it out. For what it's worth, I put nuts on the threads of the long bolts as soon as I get it out. If the starter comes apart, you need three hands to reassemble it. Guess how I know that!
edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Guess how I know that!edit: I just looked at my 6 cyl and your description makes more sense now. You're removing bolts that will disconnect the clutch housing from the block plate. You want to remove the two bolts on the end of the starter. IIRC it takes a 7/16" socket.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
Yes the starter and bendix are one unit, but are not held together by anything more that the 2 thru bolts.
Hold the case together as you wiggle the bendix around the flywheel. You usually have to lean the starter body toward the engine.
The bendix gear/spring assembly sits behind the flywheel and pulls into it when you hit the starter.
The "cup" that shields the bendix is what you see behind the bellhousing and it does not come off.
Hold the case together as you wiggle the bendix around the flywheel. You usually have to lean the starter body toward the engine.
The bendix gear/spring assembly sits behind the flywheel and pulls into it when you hit the starter.
The "cup" that shields the bendix is what you see behind the bellhousing and it does not come off.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 131
Likes: 65
Yes the starter and bendix are one unit, but are not held together by anything more that the 2 thru bolts.
Hold the case together as you wiggle the bendix around the flywheel. You usually have to lean the starter body toward the engine.
The bendix gear/spring assembly sits behind the flywheel and pulls into it when you hit the starter.
The "cup" that shields the bendix is what you see behind the bellhousing and it does not come off.
Hold the case together as you wiggle the bendix around the flywheel. You usually have to lean the starter body toward the engine.
The bendix gear/spring assembly sits behind the flywheel and pulls into it when you hit the starter.
The "cup" that shields the bendix is what you see behind the bellhousing and it does not come off.
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