When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a Vintage Glass 1 pc flat glass kit I did not use. Bought in 2000, decided to go with original vents and glass. Not pictured but included is the felt window channels. PM if you are interested.
What's the difference between flat and curved glass kits?
Originally Posted by oscar1955
I have a Vintage Glass 1 pc flat glass kit I did not use. Bought in 2000, decided to go with original vents and glass. Not pictured but included is the felt window channels. PM if you are interested.
your project is a very ambitious one, Good luck. The coyote swap seems very complicated and expensive. Maybe you can share a little information about the wirirng and how its adapted to this application Have fun and keep swingingfor the fence.
What's the difference between flat and curved glass kits?
The 53-55 doors have a slight curve in them where the door glass meets the vent assy. So the door needs to be modified to fit the
one piece flat glass. I dont know exactly what has to be done though. The curved glass type require no door mods.
The right door I started to modify. The top edge of the door where the wiper strips fit is cut out and replaced with the 90 degree bent metal strips which are included in the kit.
The third picture shows an access panel cut out to gain access to inner structure for modification. The top hinges is shortened.
I forgot to mention, don’t forget the crossmember that needs to be where the cantilevered cab mounts are. It originally had a dual function as a transmission/ engine mount, but it needs to be there to counteract the forces from the cantilevered cab mounts.
Good luck on your build. You are doing great work.
I forgot to mention, don’t forget the crossmember that needs to be where the cantilevered cab mounts are. It originally had a dual function as a transmission/ engine mount, but it needs to be there to counteract the forces from the cantilevered cab mounts.
Good luck on your build. You are doing great work.
Thanks, the stock crossmembers are staying place, I'll be boxing the frame in the middle and the back once I get the new crossmembers in.
