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I'm going to point this out one last time then I'll shut up about it. If the reservoir is full and you open some type of vent down stream the oil should gravity out of the reservoir through the pump into the rails and eventually out whatever vent you've provided. If it's not then something must be preventing it. If something is preventing oil from getting through the pump it stands to reason it could be preventing oil from getting TO the pump. A pump can't move what it doesn't have. There are exceptions to everything in this world but the chances of one of these pump to flat quit moving any fluid without some kind of catastrophic failure is basically unheard of. You can break half the piston springs in one and still put up the pressure necessary to run the engine.
I'm going to point this out one last time then I'll shut up about it. If the reservoir is full and you open some type of vent down stream the oil should gravity out of the reservoir through the pump into the rails and eventually out whatever vent you've provided. If it's not then something must be preventing it. If something is preventing oil from getting through the pump it stands to reason it could be preventing oil from getting TO the pump. A pump can't move what it doesn't have. There are exceptions to everything in this world but the chances of one of these pump to flat quit moving any fluid without some kind of catastrophic failure is basically unheard of. You can break half the piston springs in one and still put up the pressure necessary to run the engine.
I've never had one empty the reservoir changing a high pressure line or injectors. So that theory is debatable wether or not the hpop and/or ipr will pass oil just sitting. But I do understand your theory.
Topped off hpop reservoir, installed ipr plug, removed icp, cranked motor for about 15 secs and oil starded to flow out of icp orafice. Shut down waited a few seconds and cranked over agin same, oil flowing of of icp opening. When i say flowing oil was not shooting out but flowing out similar to flow out of hpop resevoir. Next step should be to test hpop psi with dead head?
Thanks again.
Topped off hpop reservoir, installed ipr plug, removed icp, cranked motor for about 15 secs and oil starded to flow out of icp orafice. Shut down waited a few seconds and cranked over agin same, oil flowing of of icp opening. When i say flowing oil was not shooting out but flowing out similar to flow out of hpop resevoir. Next step should be to test hpop psi with dead head?
Thanks again.
Leave the ipr plug installed. Put icp sensor back in the head and plug up. Pull up forscan and monitor icp v and psi. Crank over see if it shows any pressure being built up.
Leave the ipr plug installed. Put icp sensor back in the head and plug up. Pull up forscan and monitor icp v and psi. Crank over see if it shows any pressure being built up.
Copy That.
Need to charge up my battery charger then will proceed with forscan test.
Thanks
Copy That.
Need to charge up my battery charger then will proceed with forscan test.
Thanks
you need to keep a Battery Tender on that truck at all times, not just once in a Blue Moon.
that truck has not been started since the rains began over six weeks ago,
if it moves, it will leave ruts 18 inches deep, no lie....
I have ruts to fill in where the power company came into my yard to fix a power pole.
that pix was taken a year ago, the Excursion is now way behind that tree in the background, parked a couple weeks before the rains began, but after a Tornado took down tree limbs laying in that exact spot...
if it moves, it will be like a plowed field, sunk way down deep.
An industrial supply house will often be able to order these parts. I ordered mine from Motion Industries who were able to get the parts from Danfoss, who made them. The HPOP has 3/8" female STC fittings on it as do the heads. The HPOP lines are double-ended male STC. So, you can use either female STC fittings at the end of the HPOP lines to block them off (easier) or male STC fittings to block things off directly at the pump (harder to get to.) I strongly recommend female fittings as working at the end of the HPOP lines is much easier to get to than connecting things directly to the HPOP.
You will need:
1. An HPOP disconnect tool. I got mine from Riffraff, it works well.
2. A 4000 PSI or better gauge on an STC fitting to test to see if the ICP sensor is correct and this will also block off the passenger side HPOP line to do leak testing on the passenger side head. I used Riffraff's gauge here, it is on a female fitting and goes at the end of an HPOP line.
3. A 3/8" female STC to 5/16" female O-ring boss adapter. The ICP sensor must be kept connected to high pressure oil in order to perform leak testing, else the PCM does not know the actual ICP and won't control the IPR properly, giving useless data that looks like you have a big high pressure oil leak in that head even though there may not be. Disconnecting the high pressure oil line from the driver's side head takes the ICP sensor out of the oil circuit as the ICP sensor is attached to the driver's side oil rail. I used a 3/8" female STC to 3/8" NPT male adapter, connected this to a 3/8" female NPT to 5/16" female O-ring boss adapter, and attached the ICP sensor to this. There is no 3/8" female STC direct to 5/16" female O-ring boss adapter currently made, that was the "special tool" in the shop manual that is no longer available so I pieced it together using multiple parts.
4. An IPR block-off tool, Riffraff also sells one of these.
With all of that and the shop manual, you will be able to troubleshoot a low ICP problem. When doing leak testing, go in order and don't skip steps unless you want to just replace parts that don't necessarily need replaced. Do note that if you get a start when running on only one cylinder bank, let it run for about 20-30 seconds to get the IPR% to settle down. The air in the system from disconnecting the lines will initially cause the IPR% to be >16% briefly after it starts even if there is no leak.
He's talking about making something like Riffraff HPOP test gauge. but if you have a parker store or whatever they are called now..you can make one cheaper. you'd still need the out of stock male fitting unless you can find a cap to fit in the HPOP
There are different options on fitting that will fit the hpop that you could get caps for...I'm trying to get an image off diesel orings but it's not letting me but check out Diesel orings and use your imagination for fittings/ caps
I don't know where mine is but I made one for dirt cheap about 5 yrs ago. I used an old hpop fitting but I never isolated the lines, I don't think...I can't recall.
It's not the source of your issue and I really don't want to clutter up this thread but I have questions about how your HPOP lines are routed. I can't recall ever seeing that front port have a straight connection. The factory routing should be a 90 there and straight into the head on the driver's side.
No, that would not work as the fittings look like JIC (hydraulic) fittings, they are definitely not STC fittings. That might work on a 94-97 or on a later truck that was converted from STC to JIC fittings though.
The #8-021 Diesel O Rings fitting is a 3/8" female STC to something male (NPT?) that you can adapt to, though.
Again, you don’t need a deadhead test yet. Please do what Tpayne suggested first.
Originally Posted by Tpayne621
Leave the ipr plug installed. Put icp sensor back in the head and plug up. Pull up forscan and monitor icp v and psi. Crank over see if it shows any pressure being built up.
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