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If I remember correctly, this truck has a PSOM (Programmable Speedo/Odo Module) located on the back of the instrument cluster. When the PSOM starts to fail you get erratic operation such as what you're describing.
If I remember correctly, this truck has a PSOM (Programmable Speedo/Odo Module) located on the back of the instrument cluster. When the PSOM starts to fail you get erratic operation such as what you're describing.
Is there a way to test the PSOM? Will a bad PSOM throw a code? I'm having similar problems with my 1997 F250 HD, 460, E4OD, 4x4. What code reader or APP or laptop software is recommended for these old trucks? My '97 is EEC IV, fwiw.......
Is there a way to test the PSOM? Will a bad PSOM throw a code? I'm having similar problems with my 1997 F250 HD, 460, E4OD, 4x4. What code reader or APP or laptop software is recommended for these old trucks? My '97 is EEC IV, fwiw.......
An LED 3rd brake light won't cause a problem as long as your left and/or right brake lights are still incandescent.
There is no special tool to diagnose a the PSOM signal. You'd need to use an oscilloscope and watch the signal. The easiest place to tap into the PSOM speed signal is under the hood, at the cruise control servo. Unplug it and find the speed sensor wire to back-probe.
An LED 3rd brake light won't cause a problem as long as your left and/or right brake lights are still incandescent.
There is no special tool to diagnose a the PSOM signal. You'd need to use an oscilloscope and watch the signal. The easiest place to tap into the PSOM speed signal is under the hood, at the cruise control servo. Unplug it and find the speed sensor wire to back-probe.
All the lights work and they're all incandescent. The cruise control doesn't work. Could that be part of the problem too? It is all plugged in under the hood. However, I'm sure it's disconnected under the horn button. The horn button/pad popped off in my hand while driving along a few months ago. I realized that there weren't any wires connected to it and wondered if that was why the CC wasn't working. I never looked into it any further because the CC isn't that important to me. I suppose I ought to check into it further......
So after a long time troubleshooting and spending WAY too much money. I finally fixed everything. My problems were caused by a multitude of issues. First off, the transmission was toast. When I dropped the pan to check the solenoids, it looked like someone threw a party in it with how much glitter. Turns out an E4OD can only handle 300k miles of abuse and no maintenance.
I got a "new" transmission (50k miles on it), put in a brand new solenoid pack, added a trans-go shift kit, and a new torque converter and low and behold, I had 3rd gear again and 1-3 shifts were like normal. However I still had a problem with locking up in 4th way too early and not getting out of it.
I did have an oscilloscope so I couldn't test the VSS, but I had tried of couple different new VSS and all of them didnt work. I went to pick and pull and took a VSS from a junked f150 and that fixed everything. IDK why but I guess my truck doesn't want new parts.
TLR: Transmission was cooked. New parts suck. VSS was the issue.
One thing about all these VSS sensors is that there is a possibility that the sensor does not go far enough in to 'see' the tone ring. The stock ones do and that is why an old used one is better then a new one. If you get a new one and it does not work, modify the mount so the sensor goes further into the differential. It seems to fix issues with the new sensors that all seem to not work.