I’m looking for diagrams, how to’s and any good useful advice! I have a 1990 bronco 5.8. When I got it there was an 87 5.8 in it the original wire harness (1989) was destroyed. (Not exactly how that worked out with the e4od OD that’s just what I got) I took out the 87 motor because I thought it was seized up. Turns out it was a replacement but it had a standard fly wheel so the fly wheel was locked up on the torque converter yada yada so I bought a different motor in the dark lol I was told it was a 90 and it’s a 92 with a 42 pin out connector. So then for a cheap price I bought a 92 wire harness. Problem solved? Hell no now on my firewall I have one round plug and on this harness I have two for the pcm. The round one obviously goes to all the interior electronics. Someone just tell me how to make this thing run PLEASE. None of the connections are the same. I really want to keep the 92 motor. Ideallly I want a 90 firewall harness with a 42 pin out for the engine. Is this possible it seems so far beyond reach. I am not a mechanic I’m doing this 100% on my own the simplest easiest way to resolve this please! Trying to keep it plug and play

 

You got a budget to stick to?

 

Free? Lol this bronco has got me into a predicament, now it will be my only running vehicle and I’m borrowing a friends atm. This has been going on for a while now I need to get this thing running by the end of next week. I am a 40 year old athletic female that just found out I have a rare heart condition that I have to tend to sooner than later. Not going for sympathy here but I dropped the current motor by myself I don’t know if I could do it all over again with the older one and switch out the fly wheel get a 90 harness. It’s such a mess i also have everything I think I would need to switch it from an efi to a carb. Then again I’m getting back into unknown territory that’s just going to slow progress more. As I would have to learn more and read more on it. I was trying to resolve it with what I have already but that’s why I’m here

 

Unfortunately I think you probably have a electronic controlled transmission. Which adds 1000 bucks and 3 hours to your project if you go carb. So need to know which transmission you have to use. Restoring the existing harness that matches the connectors is hopefully the way to move forward. I don't see an economical solution. Harness isn't cheap. The pin outs exist. But that's hours and hours of work also. So if I'm in this boat I would either trade for a vehicle thats a runner. Broncos are popular and people will offer something usually to trade. Or buy a cheap car and use it while wiring the aftermarket trans controller and doing the carb swap or efi swap or standalone. If you really like the truck.

it might also be possible using the pinout of your existing ECU to get enough sensors and the fuel injectors hooked up so it can run in limp. But that's some zombie apocalypse level stuff.

a ford truck wrecking yard. That's got these trucks. Probably the best place to start. But they're not very common around me. Maybe someone here on the forum has a harness just sitting in their garage they don't need.

carb swap requires the low pressure fuel pump so that can be laborious. Plus a choke. And the trans. I'd personally do this and a manual swap. And a generic wiring harness. For the lights and all the rest. I mean it is a Bronco. The sports car of trucks.
so it's worth fixing and it's a decent item to trade for a running truck or car. So there are upsides to having one.

if you're electronically inclined and have the tools and the wiring color codes and everything you need. And the values of the sensors that don't share part numbers you could make it work. Using resistors where needed. But I've only done that with a European car. Which was basic EFI. Very time consuming.

 

Ok can you give me step by step instructions on how to do a generic harness for 1992 efi I have a generic harness already, I also have all the parts to convert it minus the upper intake manifold gaskets and a fuel pressure regulator. I’ve seen on a previous forum about not needing a controller on the e40d which is what I have. I’ve read ways around it I’ll have to look for it. So how do I it? In order to make the intake manifold set on the motor I’ll have to break it down to the lower manifold, also I’ll need instructions on the dizzy all of it actually. Thank you for offering your knowledge

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1505153-using-e4od-with-carburetor.html

 

Well all you need is lights. Brake light swirch at your pedal. And then turn signals. So they just need access to power from a relay. I don't know off the top of my head how the door switches and chimes are all wired. So the key would be mostly to unlock the column. You have Make sure your distributor gear is compatible and then you need an ignition control wired in that will work. I think you could use an older duraspark and a vacuum advance distributor the older motor. (Can get both an Amazon for like 150 ish) If the trans doesn't need a controller you can bypass the park neutral safety if you can't wire it in. I would need materials and the truck to make it happen. This is ambitious but in the realm of possibility. I have only done wiring hacks with digifant and it's been a long time. And my heads not the clearest right now. I'm probably forgetting stuff. But I'm hoping someone hops in here. With some fresher advice. But if you have the time and the parts and some resources and the hours. Yes. Carb and mechanical automatic with your lights wired in within a week is plausible. 450 to 600 CFM I think.

Is duraspark the way to go? Or Mallory street fire or another economy performance ignition box. If any of you guys is about this stuff. Please help us out.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...sion-help.html

A previous thread on it. has some answers

 

Dur

duraspark 2 you want. And 650 CFM AVS2 if possible. Manifold lower.

 

How to make it run is to start with some basic diagnostics
Like fuel pressure compression and spark (the BIG 3)
You are wanting to replace the harness why?
Work with what you got is my advice
Check the codes and the "big 3"

 

1990 bronco with 1989 harness? Explain
Who switched it if you're no mechanic? When? Why? The harnesses are about the same with the exception of the fuel pump wiring
You looking at numbers on the harness or what?