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Your battery sits at 12.4, then you turn the key on and it drops to 12.06-12.10 volts, and drops to 9.4volts cranking.
The second video, the battery is toast, starts at 12.3v, engine backfires, battery drops to 3-4volts, sounds like your timing is out.
Your pictures show voltage of 11.79v, the battery is low, probably over heated and overcharged.
You need a NEW battery, anything over 4 years old is toast as you are experiencing.
Your battery sits at 12.4, then you turn the key on and it drops to 12.06-12.10 volts, and drops to 9.4volts cranking.
The second video, the battery is toast, starts at 12.3v, engine backfires, battery drops to 3-4volts, sounds like your timing is out.
Your pictures show voltage of 11.79v, the battery is low, probably over heated and overcharged.
You need a NEW battery, anything over 4 years old is toast as you are experiencing.
I must of been unclear. The images you see are of 2 different batteries that I’ve tried, one 11.79, one 12.4. But the 2 videos you see are both using the same single battery, the battery that read 12.4. . Respectfully im not understanding how you’re concluding the 12.4 battery is no good. It maintains 12v or more resting, it’s only 6 months old purchased 6/24 no where near 4 years, it isn’t overcharged because it hasn’t been on a charger. So what exactly qualifies it as toast.
What would cause a battery to overheat like you’re saying, within 10 seconds of cranking?
The 11.7 battery is not functioning at 100% full capacity. I’ll give you that, but what’s the issue with the 12.4 battery shown in the videos?
just to clarify, the 11.7 battery, and the 12.4 battery shown in the images are two different batteries.
As an experiment, I will pull the coil wire and fuel pump relay, and attempt to crank my other truck to see how long until I experience a voltage drop on this battery. Willing to bet it’s a significant amount of time.
I’ll double check the timing again tomorrow, but I just reset the distributor while on compression stroke, tdc, rotor pointing at #1.
You need to verify grounds and no short.
verify your starter is good.
from my experience a battery that drops to near 9 volts while cranking is bad. And now you only have near 9 volts to fire the coil, not enough spark for it to fire.
You need to verify grounds and no short.
verify your starter is good.
from my experience a battery that drops to near 9 volts while cranking is bad. And now you only have near 9 volts to fire the coil, not enough spark for it to fire.
What CCA are the batteries?
The battery is 800 cca, and the starter is good I just put it on there brand new Sunday. You got me thinking, I looked for spark from the coil which was present(possibly weak?), but I did not check voltage to the coil. At this moment I have 12.45 on battery. To the coil I have 10.2v with the key on and truck off, getting around 9-9.5 on crank.what is normal voltage to the coil ?
The battery is 800 cca, and the starter is good I just put it on there brand new Sunday. You got me thinking, I looked for spark from the coil which was present(possibly weak?), but I did not check voltage to the coil. At this moment I have 12.45 on battery. To the coil I have 10.2v with the key on and truck off, getting around 9-9.5 on crank.what is normal voltage to the coil ?
Should be 12V, you have an issue there.
If you still have all your old parts, I'd be testing each one individually to make sure they are in spec. Then I'd test all your new parts as they may be faulty as well.
If all your parts are OK, then you need to check each connection in the harness and verify your harness is good.
Create a list, check off each step when complete.
Follow Fords troubleshooting process steps, easy to follow, or something like below.
Cables are definitely old, unsure of how old. Hot cable visibly looks okay, ground is visibly worn to the point the coating is falling off and cracking throughout. Thinking this could be an issue..? Plan to replace just to be safe anyway.
If by temporary terminal end, you mean one like the image below then yes this is on the ground side.
when the truck was running and driving, I got a no start heat soak issue where after driving the truck would barely turn over. After sitting a few minutes it was fine. Assumed it was the starter but I replaced. Wondering if this isn’t the issue I’m having now. Thanks
Look at the two light bulbs in this video.
Now imagine that your main ground cable and your clamp style battery terminal, is one of those light bulbs.
Your cable and terminal are adding an extra resistor to the circuit, so the other components aren't receiving 12 volts. Simple solution: install new battery terminals and cables.
Look at the two light bulbs in this video.
Now imagine that your main ground cable and your clamp style battery terminal, is one of those light bulbs.
Your cable and terminal are adding an extra resistor to the circuit, so the other components aren't receiving 12 volts. Simple solution: install new battery terminals and cables. https://youtu.be/v3O7fnw15KE?si=OfegATaUZXiU1UB-
This makes perfect sense, thanks for the response. Will replace immediately.
I would try a different coil wire just to see. I had an '84 mustang w/ 5.0l that had similar no start and I tried everything control module, tore down carburetor to check fuel delivery, checked plugs and pick-up. Spent a whole day and finally towed to a shop. Told the guy everything I had done. He pulled a new coil wire off the rack, installed it and it fired the first time. Never been so embarrassed or pissed about the tow bill. Back then the coil wire was $4. Tow was $50.
+1 for the checking the obvious,
which is not so obvious at times
Check the center terminal in the cap, if the little ball rolls around or the terminal gets loose, that's a problem
Check for carbon tracking inside the rotor sending the spark to ground through the shaft
New parts can be no good
+1 for the checking the obvious,
which is not so obvious at times
Check the center terminal in the cap, if the little ball rolls around or the terminal gets loose, that's a problem
Check for carbon tracking inside the rotor sending the spark to ground through the shaft
New parts can be no good
Absolutely! I bought a '94 f150 this summer and it barely ran. Got trans rebuilt and seller claimed it had been tuned up when he parked it. Well i found the inside of a boot that supposed to clamp on a terminal was a big ball of rust. Take nothing for granted. 3 things Must be present for ignition. Air, fuel and fire. Two out of 3 aint bad but it aint good in this case.
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