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1) Remove the bolt and hold-down clamp at the base of the distributer with a 1/2" wrench or socket.
2) pull the distributer straight up about 2" to dis-engage the gears inside the engine.
3) rotate the distributer rotor to align the tip of the rotor with the #1 sparkplug wire terminal on the cap.
4) reinstall the distributer, but notice the rotor will rotate about 30° as the gears mesh. Once the distributor is seated, double check to ensure the rotor is still pointing at #1 sparkplug wire terminal on the cap. If it's not, repeat the steps and account for the 30° rotation as you're meshing the gears.
5) reinstall the hold down clamp and the bolt. Torque to snug.
6) try to start the engine.
7) if it starts, remove the spout connector and use a timing light to get the timing set to 8°btdc.
and make sure it is on the compression stroke not the exhaust stoke it will feel the same. you might take the valve cover off. and figure out which side has no 1.
okay so after double checking and confirming, getting on the compression stroke, then bumping it on over to 0 degrees tdc, it looks like the rotor is pointed towards right around #5. Whats my next move? Thanks again!!
What engine is in the truck or am I missing where that information was given? The rotor should be pointing at number 1 on the cap
Early 302 on the left. 351W on the right
Or do you have a 300 six cylinder?
Originally Posted by dremtofford
you might take the valve cover off. and figure out which side has no 1.
Not an easy task to remove the passenger side valve cover on a 302 or 351W. Number one is the right front cylinder.
Just to be clear, this is what I mean when I say "the rotor should be pointing at the #1 sparkplug wire terminal on the distributer cap. The red finger-doodle art is your rotor inside your distributer. Your #1 terminal may be in a different spot, but this is how the Ford tells you how to set up the sparkplug wires.
Just to be clear, this is what I mean when I say "the rotor should be pointing at the #1 sparkplug wire terminal on the distributer cap. The red finger-doodle art is your rotor inside your distributer. Your #1 terminal may be in a different spot, but this is how the Ford tells you how to set up the sparkplug wires.
Yes sir thanks for the clarification. I’m working on a 351w in this case. I have my firing order correct and the picture below is pretty much exactly how my cap and rotor are positioned, with the red line being the direction of the rotor currently when on compression stroke and tdc. I plan to follow your instructions today with pulling the distributor and placing again, I’ll follow up after. Thanks again.
Just to be clear, this is what I mean when I say "the rotor should be pointing at the #1 sparkplug wire terminal on the distributer cap. The red finger-doodle art is your rotor inside your distributer. Your #1 terminal may be in a different spot, but this is how the Ford tells you how to set up the sparkplug wires.
Double checked everything, took my time and made sure I had the rotor in perfect position, got it all back together and still no change. I’m at a loss of where to go next.
What specific distributor and Ignition Control Module are in the truck?
The PIP sensor in the distributor or the Ignition Control.Module could be the problem, but you'll need a volt meter and a testing procedure to follow.
The ignition system includes the ICM, the PIP sensor, a resistor, fusible links and electrical harness connectors.
You need a repair manual to methodically test those components.
Also, I'm the "check your grounds" guy.
The ground connections are just as important as the hot wires.
How's the main ground cable, from the battery negative terminal, to the face of the engine block? That can cause hard to troubleshoot issues. That cable can look ok but be internally corroded.
What kind of battery terminals do you have? How are the positive connections at the battery and fender mounted starter relay/solenoid?
What's the voltage at the battery terminals while you're cranking the truck?
What specific distributor and Ignition Control Module are in the truck?
The PIP sensor in the distributor or the Ignition Control.Module could be the problem, but you'll need a volt meter and a testing procedure to follow.
The ignition system includes the ICM, the PIP sensor, a resistor, fusible links and electrical harness connectors.
You need a repair manual to methodically test those components.
Also, I'm the "check your grounds" guy.
The ground connections are just as important as the hot wires.
How's the main ground cable, from the battery negative terminal, to the face of the engine block? That can cause hard to troubleshoot issues. That cable can look ok but be internally corroded.
What kind of battery terminals do you have? How are the positive connections at the battery and fender mounted starter relay/solenoid?
What's the voltage at the battery terminals while you're cranking the truck?
Appreciate the response, you’ve given me several things to think on.
1)I checked my receipt the distributor is CarQuest. Not 100% positive on the icm but I’m sure it’s CarQuest as well.
2)I managed to check power and ground to the icm, both check out good but I was under the impression the module itself is nearly impossible to test at home without a special machine. I was also under the impression to test pip signal I would need a special led test light, that I haven’t been able to find.
3)ground from battery to the block is visibly old and worn, I will replace.
4)the terminals are old cheap and basic, i will replace as well
5)the fender mount solenoid i just replaced over the weekend , seems to have good connection on both sides of the hot wire, but again the wire and positive terminal is old.
6)have not measured battery voltage while cranking, will do so immediately.
Appreciate the response, you’ve given me several things to think on.
1)I checked my receipt the distributor is CarQuest. Not 100% positive on the icm but I’m sure it’s CarQuest as well.
2)I managed to check power and ground to the icm, both check out good but I was under the impression the module itself is nearly impossible to test at home without a special machine. I was also under the impression to test pip signal I would need a special led test light, that I haven’t been able to find.
3)ground from battery to the block is visibly old and worn, I will replace.
4)the terminals are old cheap and basic, i will replace as well
5)the fender mount solenoid i just replaced over the weekend , seems to have good connection on both sides of the hot wire, but again the wire and positive terminal is old.
6)have not measured battery voltage while cranking, will do so immediately.
In the Red Haynes manual, in the third post of the thread I posted the link to, there are specific tests, for the ignition control module, that you can do with a digital multimeter. Yes, to see the PIP signal in real time, you need a specific led test light, but there are plenty of tests, both voltage and resistance, that you can do with a digital volt meter.
What’s causing this? I can let it sit for a while and it’ll crank semi-fine for a few rotations and pulls down to 9v while cranking but then it turns to this.
the battery was fine in another vehicle. Could this be a bad ground cable? I believe it may possibly start if not for this
Where did you have the multimeter leads connected? If it was touching the lead posts on the batteries, then I'd say you're battery needs to be charged. 11v is just a dead battery. It needs to be 12.6.
What’s causing this? I can let it sit for a while and it’ll crank semi-fine for a few rotations and pulls down to 9v while cranking but then it turns to this.
the battery was fine in another vehicle. Could this be a bad ground cable? I believe it may possibly start if not for this
I can't open the file, but defective batteries and bad ground connections are fairly common.
Replace and clean electrical connections, charge or replace the battery and keep testing with your meter.
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