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Where did you have the multimeter leads connected? If it was touching the lead posts on the batteries, then I'd say you're battery needs to be charged. 11v is just a dead battery. It needs to be 12.6.
I’ve tried 2 different batteries as well as trying a large jump box in both, one of which I took out of my daily driver, it’s only couple months old. But I’m willing to buy a new one to completely rule this out. Granted this current battery shown maybe a little weaker, but it holds charge and starts other vehicles fine.
I held the leads in two different spots, once on lead post to post and once directly to the bare cables, I get the same results both ways.
I can't open the file, but defective batteries and bad ground connections are fairly common.
Replace and clean electrical connections, charge or replace the battery and keep testing with your meter.
Thinking my main ground from negative terminal has done its time. I will replace and follow up. Prior to any of these issues when the truck was still running and driving fine I started experiencing some sort of temporary no start heat soak issue that I’ve ruled out being the starter. Thinking it’s the same issue just exacerbated. Also, the ground in the picture below has been rerouted by a previous owner, and is sharing a bolt with another ground. Wondering if this could be an issue as well? I’ve attached 3 images of the voltage issue from the video above as well. Voltage just prior to cranking Voltage drop on crank Voltage immediately climbs after releasing the key
Your battery is toast.
Should be at higher than 12V at rest, and not drop below 11 when cranking.
You may also have to look at if your starter is drawing too much and killing your battery.
Your battery is toast.
Should be at higher than 12V at rest, and not drop below 11 when cranking.
You may also have to look at if your starter is drawing too much and killing your battery.
it’s a possibility on the starter. Not sure how I would determine if it’s drawing too much. New pmgr mini starter and solenoid I just replaced. I was under the impression the newer starters actually pull less off the battery compared to the old style?
I just don’t understand how either of the two batteries I’ve tried hold charge fine, start, run and crank other vehicles fine but has such a significant drop on this ford? I was iffy on the original battery also, put the new one in from my daily and still same business, running the battery in my daily driver at work as we speak. And have no problems with it even on 10 degreee mornings.
No they don't hold a charge fine, not according to your Volt Meter.
If they did, the would be well above 12volts.
Fair enough, I’ll accept that. The battery can sit for weeks and start a 4.0 jeep and 5.3 Chevy no issues. This to me is “holding charge.” To my knowledge the engine isn’t seized, ran fine before parked but it has sit sometime. I’m able to turn the engine over fairly easy by hand.
What’s causing this? I can let it sit for a while and it’ll crank semi-fine for a few rotations and pulls down to 9v while cranking but then it turns to this.
the battery was fine in another vehicle. Could this be a bad ground cable? I believe it may possibly start if not for this
Your battery is toast.
Is the engine flooded?
With all the cranking you've done, you could have over heated the starter.
With all the cranking you've done, you could have over heated the starter.
Thanks for the replies. Definitely smelling strong fuel smell up front. This starter has been cranked a very small amount of time, and in small increments due to voltage drop. Only been on there 4-5 days.
Without buying a new one, i have one more “good” battery immediately available to me at home, I will try it today and test voltage.
Why would you go buy a new one without having it tested first?
I didn’t necessarily have intentions to; I have a third battery at home I was going to use to confirm. I have tried 2 different ones and still get basically the same story. Seems odd it would draw both batteries down so low. I guess it’s possible they’re both a little weak, just seems unlikely.What’s your opinion?
I was only questioning the statement about buying a new battery and not having them load tested first. Batteries aren’t cheap.
How old are the battery cables? Is there corrosion at the terminals? Did you or someone else install those temporary terminal ends on one or both cables?
I didn’t necessarily have intentions to; I have a third battery at home I was going to use to confirm. I have tried 2 different ones and still get basically the same story. Seems odd it would draw both batteries down so low. I guess it’s possible they’re both a little weak, just seems unlikely.What’s your opinion?
I was only questioning the statement about buying a new battery and not having them load tested first. Batteries aren’t cheap.
How old are the battery cables? Is there corrosion at the terminals? Did you or someone else install those temporary terminal ends on one or both cables?
Cables are definitely old, unsure of how old. Hot cable visibly looks okay, ground is visibly worn to the point the coating is falling off and cracking throughout. Thinking this could be an issue..? Plan to replace just to be safe anyway.
If by temporary terminal end, you mean one like the image below then yes this is on the ground side.
when the truck was running and driving, I got a no start heat soak issue where after driving the truck would barely turn over. After sitting a few minutes it was fine. Assumed it was the starter but I replaced. Wondering if this isn’t the issue I’m having now. Thanks
Okay the 2 batteries in question are pictured below. The one being used in the video is the one that read 12.40, but it’s the same with either. I get 8-10 seconds of normal cranking then this. Basically the 2 videos are near chronological. Will not crank normal again until several minutes later. I think at this point I’ve ruled the battery out, leaning towards failing ground cable.