I shook the crap out of those wires while I was measuring the ohm’s. Could very well be between that and me re bundling things up tight I corrected (even temporarily) a faulty wire. I’m staying hopeful though. I’ve got if anything confirmation that the fault does not lie within the transmission , which if anything cuts any potential troubleshooting in half.

My alternator has a separate connection for charging the batteries, this alternator is unique to ambulances if I understand correctly. So if the other much heavier gauge wire was nice and tight on its post I think the battery charging would never be an issue. Unless my understanding is wrong, please correct if so.

Could the the EPC fault code have been erroneous?

Another side question, would you happen to know if swapping out the incandescent bulbs in the dash would introduce any issues the way they do in the brake circuit? I have a set I want to throw in but have been holding off until I resolve this issue.

I’ll keep ya updated over my few days test driving.

 

‘Yeah that one’s been stumping me also, and I still can’t quite resolve that with this fix. Part of me is wondering if the PCM is screwy or was made so by volt/amp fluctuations from the loose connection. I have a replacement on hand to try if the problem returns and I have ruled out any other wiring; Another thing I can’t quite resolve is that I would expect some arc signatures on that post if it was doing it bad enough.

I’m really hoping this fixed the issue, I need to start making my way down to FL to be there before Christmas
​​​​​​.

 

I'm sure the code 99 was real. If anything, these controllers are good at, is not throwing false codes. Well if it's shifting good, I think it's a success in that, if it hasn't been fixed, then it's probably going to be soon, because your issue, if all seems to be resolved right now after moving the wires around, is pointing right to the issue, so I mean even if it starts in again, I'm sure you'll find it.

You can put whatever you want in the dash for bulbs. LED's is just a no-no in the brake lights at least, I dunno, perhaps with load resistors as a work a around? Not sure, but no issues in the dash.......or anywhere else actually.

 

Rad, I’ll throw them in!
I agree, if the problem returns then I think it would be safe to say it’s wiring since the only thing I really did was disturb them really good, and I’d know exactly where to start repairs​​​​​​.

 

This is the circuit I found/referenced that was loose on the alternator. Although my wire was green/black. When I touched it to the post I heard the click of the temp switch (I think that’s what it is) on the IP.

 

I don't see how it could cause code 99 or be related to poor shifting. Besides, a constant loose connection where it would effect the trans, should have been bad shifting all the time too right, not just after things warmed up? That's not like corrosion in a connector/wire. If it's easy to get too, loosen it back up and see the symptom instantly returns.

In fact, unhook the wire altogether (from where it was lose) and go for a drive. You'll find out right quick, if it's cause or coincidence. If cause, keep driving a bit to get us the code it throws, if any.

Plus, looks at the other things on that line, that you didn't mention having issues with. Side note; see that stupid fuel filter heater,where it doesn't belong? Cheap assembly line, mass produced crap haha. I bet the E4OD engineers were happy when they saw that trick back in the day. Hope ya snipped that. You know, it doesn't cause common problems, as stupid and cheap as that was, it just bugs me to even see it was done. Hey, guys I got this great idea, lets tie in something unrelated, to where if it shorts out, it can take the power out to the trans and leave them stranded haha. Ok, so there's a fuse link there at least, but still. That circuit bugs me just looking at it.

 

Having no power to the trans does not leave one stranded.

With no power to the trans, reverse works fine. In D, the trans will always be in fourth gear with the converter unlocked. In M1 and M2 the trans will be in second gear with the converter unlocked.

 

Yeah, I told him that back in post #74. That was just tongue in cheek. Poking fun and ribbing you engineers.
Actually, it probably was someones else's call after. About saving $ on the line. If that was you guys, than shame on you Mark!

 

That my friend is a very good idea, I’ll see if I can re-introduce the problem by disconnecting the post then with it loose. Though I’m going to wait a couple days before I do. I drove this morning and haven’t had the issue yet. Knock on wood. Also I know my cold idle solenoid was not working, and right after I did my glow plugs 3 weeks ago it seemed like they were kinda worse then before ai had replaced them, though have been fine and better than before since. It’s only as of this last few days that I’ve learned enough of the circuit to see they could be related. I’ve learned an enormous amount the last two weeks thanks to you all.

I haven’t snipped that fuel heater line but I did zip tie it up and onto one of the hard lines. It was just chilling.

 

Well I hope it continues to work after all the time you have put in to this quagmire--somebody deserves a beer or three!

 

Well everyone, the problem returned on Sunday afternoon, however I was/am able to manage it pretty confidently so on Monday I started my 1300 mile drive south to FL. I made it without much of a hitch, but I did discover my Alternator wasn’t putting out enough voltage. While driving the first night I noticed my headlights dimmed out so I pulled out my VOM meter and confirmed what I suspected. Alternator was only putting out 11.3 vdc. Batteries had the same voltage so I’m guessing the output was even lower and I was reading the partial charge left on them. Stopped over in Charleston where I found a shop that rebuilds them and had mine rebuilt and upgraded to output 240amps.

The shop showed me the internals and the entire pos. side of the alternator was fried inside. Wish I thought to snap a photo before letting him toss it. Anyway my subsequent drives seemed pretty good, though I don’t think my issue is completely solved. Seems to still shift on the early side but nowhere near how bad it was at its worst. I will continue to troubleshoot and report back until this one’s wrapped up. I’m going to try swapping the PCM this weekend, after seeing the alternator fried the way it was I’m thinking there may be other electrical damage elsewhere.

 

Manual 2nd position is shifting through the gears, as explained via pm. Manual 2 should be 2 and 2 only. No shifting through gears.

So, the first thing you want to do here, is unhook the power from the trans. Unplug the solenoid pack connector.
You should have:
Manual 1 - 2nd gear only.
Manual 2 - 2nd gear only.
D - 4th gear only. (You may need to give it a lot of fuel, to feel it start to move. In fact, if it just feels "stuck in the mud" this is good enough to know it's in 4th.)

Post your results.

 

‘Will do and report back asap

 

Ok pulled the connection off and it behaved exactly as you described. Had reverse, manual 1 & 2 both felt like 2nd and D/O felt like it wouldn’t even move.

 

I went ahead and swapped in my reman PCM/TECA. Trucks shifting perfectly and it’s staying in manual 2nd and 1st respectively when I put it there. Hoping We’ve got a winner.