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Thanks for the course correction, I’ll stay focused. It’s easy to get grasping at anything that resembles a problem. Appreciate you.
edit: just placed an order for a new solenoid pack. Will be here the 2nd. Not going to wait around for the builder to do it. I’ll bill him for the part once it’s solved.
Last edited by 4x4E350Ambo; Nov 27, 2024 at 07:01 PM.
I’m doing exactly that, can’t wait for builder gotta get it done myself. Swapping the pack is easy, never done it but I can see it’s literally a handful of bolts and two nuts on studs. Easy peasy.
Updated my symptoms on initial post. Stating here as well.
I’ve discovered that it does not quite appear to be heat/temp related. I can make my first drive of the day in the truck without any issues whatsoever. Drives perfectly weather it’s a 10 min drive or an hour. However once I turn off the truck and re start it is when it will begin it’s early shifting problem.
I received my new solenoid pack today and plan on throwing it in tomorrow or Wednesday. The transmission is also no longer throwing codes. Every time I take a reading I get 23,10,11
23 as I understand happens if the throttle is not pressed to floor during testing
10 end of sequence
11 No faults
Also put in new vacuum pump yesterday…only to learn it was defective out of the damn box. Absolute crap parts store junk. Another one going in tomorrow
Did you hold it to the floor during the scan though? If not, you wont know for sure if it's a fault code. Also, just a reminder, you will have early shifts if you left your TPS @ 1.15. Did you my follow my advice in the top of post 30 to set it to 1.2V yet?
Remember, ground lead on meter needs to go to battery, hot to center lead. Cold advance off.
Are you disconnecting the battery and clearing codes, or did code 99 leave on it's own?
The reason for that revised TSB on setting your TPS up to 1.2V was that Ford found that the electronic pressure wasn't high enough for lower settings and was causing premature trans failure. Nothing is stated without very good reason. If you are leaving that TPS set too low and that code 23 is real, you're not helping yourself out here. I don't know where or if it would throw and EPC code if it were set too low. I suspect lower than the old value, which was like 1.1V if I remember right........but still. It's vital you set this properly, do a scan without getting code 23.
Did you hold it to the floor during the scan though? If not, you wont know for sure if it's a fault code. Also, just a reminder, you will have early shifts if you left your TPS @ 1.15. Did you my follow my advice in the top of post 30 to set it to 1.2V yet?
Remember, ground lead on meter needs to go to battery, hot to center lead. Cold advance off.
Are you disconnecting the battery and clearing codes, or did code 99 leave on it's own?
The reason for that revised TSB on setting your TPS up to 1.2V was that Ford found that the electronic pressure wasn't high enough for lower settings and was causing premature trans failure. Nothing is stated without very good reason. If you are leaving that TPS set too low and that code 23 is real, you're not helping yourself out here. I don't know where or if it would throw and EPC code if it were set too low. I suspect lower than the old value, which was like 1.1V if I remember right........but still. It's vital you set this properly, do a scan without getting code 23.
I run a wire from the battery negative to my black lead on VOM. It’s an ambulance chassis so they are in a compartment in the box external to the engine bay. I unplug the cold advance wire, though my cold advance solenoid is not working anyway (still do it). Regarding the codes being cleared. I did it once with the scan tool and I have a battery disconnected switch in my cab mounted to my driver seat that I use to kill the battery every night. It Disconnects the hot side to the vehicle & engine bay. I’ve also had the TPS set to 1.2volts previously during my trouble shooting and it didn’t change the shifting habits. When I say shifting early I mean it will be in 3rd by the time I’m at 20-25 mph. I’ve made several videos showing my process but can’t post video here sadly. Would going over 1.2vdc hurt? I would say mines currently at 1.18-1.2 depending on how the throttle lever settles (I’ve noticed some variations in that voltage if I open the throttle up several times after setting)
But I have followed the below process to a T without no success. Did you see my RABS & Parking brake lights have been on since these issues started, think there is any correlation with that? Also when the problem is occurring you can definitely feel a sort of RMP surging, like it’s momentarily out of gear then back in. This always happens at or around 10 mph. That was actually the very first symptom that was happening about 2 months before the early ****ting/bogging down started.
Last edited by 4x4E350Ambo; Dec 3, 2024 at 07:18 AM.
That's good. It doesn't matter that setting it correctly, doesn't help the issue. I didn't expect it too. Remember, we know your main issue is EPC out of speck. I just wanted to make sure, you were not contributing to the problem. Yeah, your bad vacuum pump is the reason your brake light is on. This is not related to code 99. OK, the reason code 99 (your main trans problem) probably is just because it hasn't had time to throw the code again, between your resets. I think you'd find that if you had a way of leaving the codes stored, it would still be there. It's not to be expected that anything other than addressing code 99 will resolve your issue. This is a constant known that will remain known. While attempting to fix code 99, it's important you don't fiddle with unrelated things, trying to fix the EPC issue, is all I'm trying to get across. No. I strongly recommend, leaving the TPS alone and right where you have it according to that bulletin. This is a known and proven, correct setting.
Main focus since you stated it: Code 99.
See post #30.
I keep hearing you, wondering and asking if it could be something else.......No. It's not. I know me personally, I would have already had that pack pulled and that solenoid tested. I would know it's resistance reading within an hour of getting code 99 and I would know whether or not it was clicking, with 12v supplied. If it passed, I would know if I had 0 ohms to all my wires from the trans controller to the pack. As noted in post #30.
That's good. It doesn't matter that setting it correctly, doesn't help the issue. I didn't expect it too. Remember, we know your main issue is EPC out of speck. I just wanted to make sure, you were not contributing to the problem. Yeah, your bad vacuum pump is the reason your brake light is on. This is not related to code 99. OK, the reason code 99 (your main trans problem) probably is just because it hasn't had time to throw the code again, between your resets. I think you'd find that if you had a way of leaving the codes stored, it would still be there. It's not to be expected that anything other than addressing code 99 will resolve your issue. This is a constant known that will remain known. While attempting to fix code 99, it's important you don't fiddle with unrelated things, trying to fix the EPC issue, is all I'm trying to get across. No. I strongly recommend, leaving the TPS alone and right where you have it according to that bulletin. This is a known and proven, correct setting.
Main focus since you stated it: Code 99.
See post #30.
I keep hearing you, wondering and asking if it could be something else.......No. It's not. I know me personally, I would have already had that pack pulled and that solenoid tested. I would know it's resistance reading within an hour of getting code 99 and I would know whether or not it was clicking, with 12v supplied. If it passed, I would know if I had 0 ohms to all my wires from the trans controller to the pack. As noted in post #30.
opened up my "new" solenoid and it’s quite the opposite. Should I be concerned putting this in if it tests good? Ohm testing now. It has a noticeable difference in circuit board design, looks older than what I have now. Had some obvious dirt in passage ways.
No worries. There's some differences over the years, but so long as it's 89-94 they're all compatible. Cool. The moment we've all been waiting for. What about pins 11/12 this is the focus.
Interesting about the lockup solenoid though. Sounds barley within spec uh? Not bad enough to set code 62 cus it goes within spec at warmup.
That tot reading just verified the pack is bad though, by the sounds of things.
Pins 11 and 12. What's a ya got?
Oh wait, "this pack" you mean you're testing the one that just came in, not the one in the trans? Oh no. You might have gotten a bad pack? Crap!
You just went ahead and got a new pack without first testing your old one? Yeah, you really don't trust your trans shop do you? haha
Yeah the pins all passed ohm testing once I warmed the pack up. I had left it in the truck over night and it was 20 degrees out. That must have been a part of it. I’m running out of time so I’d rather have the parts I may need on hand in case I need them to reduce time spent waiting. I’m currently traveling the country in this rig and stuck in NJ right now.
Pack’s going in tomorrow morning, had to fix my brakes first. New vacuum pump in and everything is stopping like it should now.
I did have a brief moment of “maybe this is it’ today while putting the vacuum pump in. I noticed nearly all the wires at the cruise control unit in the engine bay were exposed with little no no jacket insulating them. Picture below for reference. Anyway, I cut the harness off and tied the wires back… no help to the shifting problem.
I did finally get a code thrown today. I’m sure if it’s related to cutting back those wires. Code 14. Book says ‘ignition profile pickup (PIP) circuit failure" is what triggered. Any correlation to what I found and did today?
I know what you’re going to say @FORD250HDXLT “stop messing with other stuff until the packs replaced’ I won’t touch anything else after this lol, promise!
Question, does the torque converter make a grumbling sound when it’s trying to engage too early? Wondering if that’s also happening because that’s what I’m hearing when it does this and it sounds like crap.
Cross everyone’s fingers for tomorrow
Last edited by 4x4E350Ambo; Dec 3, 2024 at 04:24 PM.
Uh oh. No, you're good to fix this one! 14 is actually the tach sensor code in E4OD IDI trucks. I'll add a thread for codes here.
To test your tach sensor, you remove it and hold it away from any metal, put your meter on it and measure resistance (ohms) and it should read between 2,0000 to 3,000 ohms.
Often the wiring can chafe through around the vacuum pump, but I dunno what the plug your showing there is. That's not related to the tach sensor? Did you unplug the tach sensor when replacing the vac pump? Notice any wiring there that got disturbed? Hmmm. I'd like to see the van setup to know what I'm looking at, but this should give you an idea on what's going on there.
At any rate. Yes, get some liquid electrical tape and fix that, whatever it is haha. Related to trans issue or not, that needs to be fixed.
Tach sensor and RPM sensors the same thing? The big boy on the IP gear housings with the 1" size socket? If yes replaced it previously because it threw a RPM sensor fault early on, kept it just in case. Transmission builder didn’t like that I replaced it with a non US made part (I tried & couldn’t source one promptly) so he asked me to swap it back. I did that yesterday.
the harness I’m holding in that photo plugs into the big cruise control thingy with vacuum lines going to it. Pictured below and circled
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