When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In my rehabbing of the 03Xlt FX4 Screw that I purchased, I was replacing the leaking axle seals I came across. While draining the diff I noticed a lot of crud under the ID band on the axle tube. I didn't think much of it figuring it was old mud behind the label. Nope. It is rust. Close to all the way through in part of it. I have never experienced this. And I used to drive Jeep TJs! (If you know, you know). I have a section of schedule 40 pipe that is 3 inch. It will be slightly small but I was going to split it and mash it to fit then weld the heck out of it. Has anyone done this? The POS is becoming a money pit so I am not trying to swap out the rear. The spot is centered between the spring mount and shock mount. I cleaned it up yesterday with my die grinder and primed it with weld through primer. I would think schedule 40 is thicker than the tube so it should be ok.
I've seen other threads about similar problems. Can't remember where. The solution probably depends on the area rusted through and where it is. Do you have a picture?
Of course, one problem with welding is avoiding warping or bending. People cut and weld axle housings often in the hot rod world to narrrow them for wider tires so it's not unheard of. Search narrowing axle hot rod and there's a bunch out there.
If you can you should probably make sure it's not already bent. If it is you'll need to straighten it before fixing it. Good luck.
I've seen other threads about similar problems. Can't remember where. The solution probably depends on the area rusted through and where it is. Do you have a picture?
Of course, one problem with welding is avoiding warping or bending. People cut and weld axle housings often in the hot rod world to narrrow them for wider tires so it's not unheard of. Search narrowing axle hot rod and there's a bunch out there.
If you can you should probably make sure it's not already bent. If it is you'll need to straighten it before fixing it. Good luck.
Yes, shortening is different. It is also done on hitrods as you mention for decent coin. I am putting a mass produced F150 with the clearcoat peeling off and a soon to be built wooden bed on the road. I just need to rig it up enough to go.
It is not bent. It is rusted about a third of the way around but not all the way through. It is between the spring mounts and the shock mount. I guess 1.5 inch wide band. Here is a picture holding paper behind for clarity.
you could drill a 1/8 inch hole thru the tube in the BAD SPOT just to see how thick the metal is and convince yourself if it is "BAD"...... grind around the hole when done and fill with JB WELD to cover it up.
Thanks. I have the axle out to replace the seal. I think I am going to split a short piece of pipe, about 5 inches, and weld it over the spot. It's clean and primed with some weld through primer now. I'll just run a strap around the shock and unbolt it so it is out of the way. It should be easy and give me piece of mind. If it is still strong and the pipe is not needed, great, it won't hurt anything.
Can't wait to smell that burning friction modifier in the tube! I sprayed it out with some brake clean the other day when I cleaned and prepped the outside but there is more in there.
Well, the axle tube is welded up and painted. I figured I would follow up on what I did.
Before, rust under ID band was considerably bad with deep pitting.
The axle tube is about 3.25" outside diameter. The closest thing I had was 3" ID schedule 40 steel pipe. I cut a 5" section and split it. From there I set the half on my vice and whacked ita couple of times with a BFH. I got it to spread so it was a nice fit.
The pipe was a little short because the inside diameter was a little small. That was OK since about 1/3 of the axle tube was not pitted. I welded the two halves on and on theside you dont see, filled the gap with weld. That looked a bit nasty along with welding upside down getting a bit messy. Thats ok though "A grinder and paint make the welder you ain't!".
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
