When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah pull the rubber line off, and shoot a little compressed air through it to make sure it's open all the way. And then very carefully stick like a piece of wire down through the metal fitting thats threaded in the housing to make sure that's not plugged.
I have drilled out clogged vent tubes before. I'm not sure what size, but I know I did bigger than the original holes. Rich, what is the draw back to having the vent holes too big? Just more chance of oil vapors escaping? I have seen planty of people use a small filter on the end of the rubber vent hoses, I do like that idea.
And just to be clear that is take the hose completely off and blow air all the way through it, with it not on the truck. I've had to drill out a clogged axle vent fitting before, use appropriate size drill bit. Put some tape around it to use it as a grip point to hand drill the mud, guck or whatever out. Put grease on it to catch the gunk and stuff, so you're not pushing it inside the axle.
Can't think of anything wrong with having a bigger than whatever might normally be vent hose size. Yeah I've seen little wire cage filters, I've seen one way check valves. Whatever helps keep the water out.
I had similar leaks from those plug welds. Cleaned them up real good with brake cleaner and mashed some JB Quick Steel putty in them. Did this several years ago and so far so good.
John,
I guess my whole point in all this typing is that there should be NO oil in the axle tube to start with.
Yea you might have covered up the outwards look of the problem but I would think the real problem is still ther,
Leaking into the tube...
Maybe I am all wet but that is just how I approach problems. Dig in and take it apart and look to be sure that it has been solved.
Alex
I did the putty after installing new inner seals. It is kinda tough from memory and this picture to tell if those holes are inside the seal/pumpkin or on the tube side.
I know they are a couple of inches inside of where the axle tube meets the pumpkin, but without having it apart I can't tell how it lines up with the seal.
I did not and do not have gear oil leaking near the wheels, so I assume the inner seals are working and the vent is not plugged.
The inner seals are inboard of the plugs on the tube, however, the tubes are only pressed into the housing. On the inside of the housing, where you can see the end of the tubes, there is a bead of silicone from factory to keep gear oil from seeping between the tube and housing. That is more than likely where you are getting the leak from. If the seals are good you won't have any gear oil inside the tubes themselves, but you may still get some seeping around the tube if that silicon inside is degraded or was damaged/removed when you replaced the seals. When I replaced the seals on mine a couple years back, the silicon came out when I was cleaning everything up. I cleaned the area really well and ran a bead of silicone after I got the seals installed.
Good morning all and thanks for the replies. So the vent tube was clear, I put a small wire down fitting n there may have been a small block but hard to tell
I shot some air into the vent, went right in and I could hear it exit the fitting
I only put about ten miles since the fluid change. I think there are a couple very fine hairline cracks in the plugs that it may be seeping from. It’s not excessive but definitely seeping and if I leave it parked a few days it will drip to the floor.
when I return from vacation I will tilt it clean it and put a sealer of some sort n c what happens.
my concern would be if the seals are leaking what problems can occur? Remember this was parked almost 20 years, but no other seals at all have leaked, not even brake seals or wheel seals. Kinda crazy, thought for sure this thing would be leaking like a sieve once I got it rolling.
Sorry forgot to mention, there was oil drip when I purchased it, I’ve just been all the other stuff first. So I think it’s been leaking for a while because I cleaned up a lot of old dry oil/dirt back away from the diff, so it was probably blowing back but who knows for how long. When I dumped the gear oil it appeared to be the correct amount but I didn’t measure. I thought it was the gasket leaking, but that’s not the case.
Air down the vent tube ONLY when disconnected from the axle. NO air IN the vent tube fitting (that is screwed into the axle). Worse case the inner seals give up completely and you start leaking major amounts of 80/90 into the axle tubes. And then it runs down the tubes and comes out both ends and all over the u-joints and steering knuckles, the ground and probably the tires. And then its gets slung all over inside your inner fenderwell. And you leak oil all the time until you are out and you burn up the front ring and pinion gears. At least when you replace them you will be right in there to replace the seals. Real worse case scenario.
I know guys that have trucks with leaking front axles seals for years, just ck the fluid on a normal maint basis.
Sorry but that is why in post #30 I said with the rubber line off...and real sorry I did not say completely off the axle. Since one end is always "off" the axle, I figured you knew what I meant. I hope that tip did not make you blow your seals out. Or blow a bunch of gunk into the seals and make them start to leak. Sorry I did not clarify that detailed step until later.
Pro tip #47 when putting compressed air to anything (but the tires), make sure it is real low air pressure. And always think about the design of what you are putting the air into and what can be damaged. Always pause and think twice.... before you act. Lol
Gweedo,
My guess is by looking at your shop, and the way you work on your projects, you prolly already figured to take the front apart and clean up and replace needed inner and outer seals, re pack wheel bearings, and check brakes..
Just guessing LOL
Please don’t be sorry 77&79 , in post #41 you said no air in the vent tube screwed into the axle. I figured if the seal is bad then i can only make it worse, so it’s on me not you.
Either way I’m gonna have to repair it, which means everything on the axle will have to be replaced as well
running short on time for the truck, I have a lot of other project going on and I don’t want to neglect her. I may decide to sell her but I can’t in good conscience sell to someone knowing there’s an issue. But that’s if I decide to.
Still have all the rubber seals for doors and windows sitting in a box and 3 of the 4 gas tanks to re-install. Plus I need to have the drivers door adjusted correctly, I tacoed it forward n almost died, but that’s another story to tell with a 🥃whiskey n a cigar.
thnx again and happy thanksgiving to all!!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.