Would like opinions, please -- related to a '94 Ranger (3.0 V6, 5M, 2WD w/LS), 95K on the clock. Original battery and exhaust (yeah, irrelevant, but I still can't believe it myself!)

Anyway,

1. Decided that I'm going to change the rear differential oil soon. Don't feel like removing the cover, so I'm thinking "cheap pump". Any recommendations?

2. On the gear oil itself, I see that Pennzoil's version (I think it's 80W-90 or such) claims to have the necessary additive for the LS included. Can I trust this to be suitable for my limited-slip diff? Any recommendations for other brands/weights of gear oil? The Ford manual calls for their "XY-90-QL" oil with added friction modifier (C8AZ-19B546-A). Problem is, I have no idea where to even GET this additive outside of the dealership (and that's only if absolutely nece$$ary), so I'd rather use something easily obtainable (Wally-word, Autozone, etc.) if possible.

3. Also, had an oil analysis done by ANA Labs. The only standout number was lead, at 37. Although ANA called this "mildly above normal" and advised that I "follow established maintenance procedures", I nonetheless would like those more experienced than I to add their $0.02. Other numbers, FWIW: Copper (4), Aluminum (4), Iron (10), Silicon (11), VIS@100C Cst. 11.48, Moly (84), Magnesium (24), Calcium (2193), Phosphorus (861), Zinc (938). Oil was mostly Mobil dino 10W/30 with 2 qts (Exxon) make-up added over the 5K duration. (BTW, requested a TBN but didn't get it. They also "lost" my sample for 2 weeks. For $10, I guess you have to make some exceptions.) Again -- comments, advice?

Please pick a number and fire away. As always, thanks in advance for your comments!

Mike

 

Mike,

Regarding #2, about a year ago I replaced my LS rear diff fluid with Valvoline Durablend which is made for "all hypoid differentials (conventional and limited slip)"...I still ended up having to add a little friction modifier, even though the Durablend supposedly had it in there already. Read here: Limited Slip Additive

My hunch is that the Pennzoil version you mention is similar to the Valvoline that I used.

Also, I've seen limited slip additives on the shelf in autoparts stores, but I opted to get mine (Motorcraft) from the dealer.

 

Re: #3 To tell you the truth, I'd either shorten the duration you use that type of oil (to say, 3 or 4,000 miles max) or switch brands. Mobil DC and Exxon are probably one in the same Mobil-made oil. Okay oils, but not for long use. TBN usually isn't worth the expense unless you are running long duration oil changes...5K miles to infinity.

 

Re # 1 - Don't pump it out. You won't get as much of it out as you would by pulling the cover. It is not hard to pull the cover and replace the gasket. You will also get a much better idea of how good a shape your gears are in and see if and large shavings and pieces that may have just sunk to the bottom. Gives a much better peace of mind than just pumping the fuid.

 

Rockledge -- thanks for relating your experience and the link. I like the idea of just getting the additive from the dealer; after all, how much could they possibly charge for a 4 oz. bottle of something? Wait, I take that back...

Jr. -- Noted, hard to argue that logic. If the gasket is easy enough to get, I'll go that route instead.

2F2 -- Thanks for the comments. BTW, TBN with ANA is only $2 more ($12 instead of $10). When you think about it, a full analysis by ANA added to the cost of 5 qts. oil and filter is still less than what most dealers and garages charge for a change. Seems worth it to me.

Mr. Flash (or anyone else): Can it be safely stated that it's too early to determine if the slightly elevated lead is due to oil type/brand and/or duration, especially since only one analysis has been done? I think "too early", but would like to hear from those who are a bit more experienced than I with oil analysis.

Anyway, I'm not ready to jump off the "any SAE SL/5K duration" bandwagon just yet, especially since Brian might get lonely holding those reins all by himself!

Mike

 

Re: #3

Elevated lead could indeed be bearing corrosion due to the oil running a low TBN, pure speculation that cannot be proven without a number. This should not happen at 5k unless it was all short-trip driving. Two quarts of makeup should also have replenished the additive package. Six months or 5-6K should still be fine for dino under ordinary circumstances. I would do another oil sample at the next change and see if the lead number comes down.

Jim

 

Mike, that gasket can be found at almost any parts store. Fel-pro rear differential cover gasket - $5.49 available at Kragen's.

 

Hello Jim,

First, thanks very much for taking the time to offer your insight -- I do appreciate the advice, and tend to agree with the course of action you suggest. I'll give ANA one more shot and see what comes back. If the data are wildly inconsistent with the previous, I'm going to switch to another service.

FWIW, the type of driving in the truck is mostly highway, 65 miles round-trip about 3 days a week. Since I have a car as well, the truck often sits idle a couple days in a row, sometimes as long as a week. I wonder if these "rest periods" have had any impact over the past 9+ years, since I've often read that the best thing one can do for their car/truck is something very simple: drive it everyday. I do follow the other mandates, though: don't beat on a cold engine, but occasionally exercise a fully warm one.

Again, thanks!

(Jr., thanks to you as well for getting that gasket info -- much appreciated!)

 

Anytime Mickey.