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Ok, I had some clunking sound occur on Thursday.. yesterday I removed my rear diff cover to inspect it and discovered 2 broken teeth. Both teeth were in the small pockets at the bottom of the housing.
My question is can I replace just the ring gear and pinion?
My truck is a 2000 F350 Lariat crew cab, sb, 7.3L 4x4 with automatic transmission. Differential tags read-
75 W 140 SYNTH S 409 H
OIL ONLY L 73 10 5 0F29
It's a Sterling 10.5" limited slip differential w/3.73:1 gear ratio made June 29th 2000.
Question - can I replace just the ring gear? Also, is it a 10.5" ring gear or rear end? Thanx in advance
My question is can I replace just the ring gear and pinion?
Yes.
Originally Posted by Hammer&Nails
Question - can I replace just the ring gear?
No, you must replace the ring gear and pinion as a matched set. There is a procedure in the Tech Folder at the top of this forum that tells you how to do it. I have put the link below for your convenience.
X2 on just swapping the whole differential. I see them around here on Marketplace constantly for around $500 or so sometimes even lower. The swap can be done for the price of new u bolts and gear oil in half a Saturday afternoon. Way less work and money than a gear swap.
Just noticed you've got the limited slip rear, those might be a little more difficult to source, but correct me if I'm wrong, I'm thinking the factory units aren't the greatest to begin with. So I would probably just swap a non LS unit and be done, but that's me.
Great information, everyone that's contributed. Question for clarity, by "swapping out the whole differential" are you referring to the gear assembly, or the entire axle? Also, what am I able to do in regards to changing from 3.73 to 4.10/4.11? Can I install 4.10 gears into my housing? Yes, I'm obviously still learning about this type of wrenching(gear mechanism) work as of yet but I gotta learn it at some point. Like many of you, especially in this current time with costs being what they are, I want to know that nothing else is screwed up in the meantime, while something else is being worked on. Plus I like to learn new things.
Anyway my point is, that I told a lot mostly my dump trailer with either broken up concrete or my skid steer which is a Kubota that weighs about 8,300 lb so with 410 gears be better than 373 and I'm certain that if I do change the gearing, them I also have to change the front differential as well, correct?
Also, do I have to pull the entire axle out from under my truck or can I do it while it's still under there, meaning ,changing the differential or ring & pinion gears?
Great information, everyone that's contributed. Question for clarity, by "swapping out the whole differential" are you referring to the gear assembly, or the entire axle? Also, what am I able to do in regards to changing from 3.73 to 4.10/4.11? Can I install 4.10 gears into my housing? Yes, I'm obviously still learning about this type of wrenching(gear mechanism) work as of yet but I gotta learn it at some point. Like many of you, especially in this current time with costs being what they are, I want to know that nothing else is screwed up in the meantime, while something else is being worked on. Plus I like to learn new things.
Anyway my point is, that I told a lot mostly my dump trailer with either broken up concrete or my skid steer which is a Kubota that weighs about 8,300 lb so with 410 gears be better than 373 and I'm certain that if I do change the gearing, them I also have to change the front differential as well, correct?
The axle / differential change means the entire housing and everything within. Drop the axle at the springs, universal joint at the pinion and misc brake lines and wiring. I would not recommend attempting an in truck ring and pinion install, especially if you've not done this type work. BTW, my local LKQ has at least four choices for your entire rear axle assembly, different ratios, most listed as lockers
. The replacement ratio should be the same.
The axle / differential change means the entire housing and everything within. Drop the axle at the springs, universal joint at the pinion and misc brake lines and wiring. I would not recommend attempting an in truck ring and pinion install, especially if you've not done this type work. BTW, my local LKQ has at least four choices for your entire rear axle assembly, different ratios, most listed as lockers
. The replacement ratio should be the same.
Thanks. How do I know what all axles will work for my setup?
If it were my problem, I would consider finding a replacement rear end from a recycling facility. A whole lot fewer hours involved.
I agree, when my Suburban rear diff locked up,
the mechanic at the local salvage yard, went online and found me a "new 88k miles" rear axle complete for $500, with his labor and new rotors, calipers, pads, it came to $1500
the burb used to be my Tow Pig, under powered, and slow.
I just completed the purchase through eBay for a replacement axle that lists my truck as being compatible 2000-2002(mine's a 2000) with (S 409 H) tag code.
It was the last one available it said.
Crap I just thought of something what if it's not a limited slip I don't believe that it said would that still work with my truck?
Price was only $740 after tax with free shipping
Yes the limited slip is just an option available. It doesn't change the physical size or compatibility. It's only a traction aid, but like I said before I'm pretty sure they were prone to failure so not a big loss.
To answer your earlier question, any Sterling 10.5 rear end should be a straight across direct bolt in plug and play swap. Though to be honest almost any rear end from from any make or model will technically work. It just becomes a matter of mounting brackets and such. Plus maybe a custom driveshaft. Just a matter of how bad do you want whatever differential under whatever vehicle.
Yes the limited slip is just an option available. It doesn't change the physical size or compatibility. It's only a traction aid, but like I said before I'm pretty sure they were prone to failure so not a big loss.
To answer your earlier question, any Sterling 10.5 rear end should be a straight across direct bolt in plug and play swap. Though to be honest almost any rear end from from any make or model will technically work. It just becomes a matter of mounting brackets and such. Plus maybe a custom driveshaft. Just a matter of how bad do you want whatever differential under whatever vehicle.
Good to know. Thank for the info. I'm going to call the outfit tomorrow to verify and see if it's a limited slip or not
Thanks. How do I know what all axles will work for my setup?
Well, Sorry I am late to your follow up questions but I see you have the replacement on order. They probably wanted your vehicle VIN and asked how it is actually configured. Good luck, hope you get a good part.
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