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Well, Sorry I am late to your follow up questions but I see you have the replacement on order. They probably wanted your vehicle VIN and asked how it is actually configured. Good luck, hope you get a good part.
I actually cancelled my order because I didn't see the pics of the actual axle until this morning and discovered that it wasn't even what was in the description of the axle. Ugg. Currently trying to find a source of information that shows all compatible rear ends for my truck
Ok I have a question. A local salvage yard has a rear end out of a 1999 Ford F350 with a tag code S 138 C
My truck's code is S 409 H
Is the S 138 C compatible with mine?
I actually cancelled my order because I didn't see the pics of the actual axle until this morning and discovered that it wasn't even what was in the description of the axle. Ugg. Currently trying to find a source of information that shows all compatible rear ends for my truck
Sounds about right for eBay. Have you checked FB Marketplace yet? There always seems to be at least one or two on there in my area and usually at a fair price. Honestly Marketplace is the only reason I even have a FB account. As for what's compatible, any single wheel Ford 3/4 or 1 ton from 99 and up should work. If your truck is 4wd you'll want to stick with the 3.73's unless you find a deal on a matched set of 4.10's. If your truck is a two-wheel drive then anything should work you can even roll that Dana 80 noob wants, under there and make it a dually. Second thought you'll want to steer clear of cab and chassis differentials. The frame width is different on those and you'd have to move the spring perches to match your frame.
You might do a little Googling to double check me but I'm thinking you'd be better off without the factory limited slip. Hell that could be why you're shopping for a rear end now.
Ok, based on what I just learned from a Ford rep., the S 409 H code on my truck is related to the axle itself.
So if I'm understanding everything correctly, that code doesn't matter if I'm swapping out the entire axle. If I'm wrong, please let me know
Last question: why is it that some have said that the axle has to be removed in order to remove the rear differential from the axle housing? He just said that once the axle shafts are removed from both sides, the differential can be removed from the housing without needing to remove the axle. Is that not correct?
Sounds about right for eBay. Have you checked FB Marketplace yet? There always seems to be at least one or two on there in my area and usually at a fair price. Honestly Marketplace is the only reason I even have a FB account. As for what's compatible, any single wheel Ford 3/4 or 1 ton from 99 and up should work. If your truck is 4wd you'll want to stick with the 3.73's unless you find a deal on a matched set of 4.10's. If your truck is a two-wheel drive then anything should work you can even roll that Dana 80 noob wants, under there and make it a dually. Second thought you'll want to steer clear of cab and chassis differentials. The frame width is different on those and you'd have to move the spring perches to match your frame.
You might do a little Googling to double check me but I'm thinking you'd be better off without the factory limited slip. Hell that could be why you're shopping for a rear end now.
That's a good point and idea regarding getting rid of the limited slip..could I just replace the differential and install a non limited slip back into my axle housing?
Last question: why is it that some have said that the axle has to be removed in order to remove the rear differential from the axle housing? He just said that once the axle shafts are removed from both sides, the differential can be removed from the housing without needing to remove the axle. Is that not correct?
I did my differential rebuild with the axle still attached to the truck. What the guy told you is correct. Just make sure you leave enough room on either side of the truck to pull the shafts out.
The reason most people say to remove the axle is because, unless you have a lift, it is a lot easier to to set the ring and pinion not laying on your back with crap falling in your eyes and mouth every time you move.
The reason most people say to remove the axle is because, unless you have a lift, it is a lot easier to to set the ring and pinion not laying on your back with crap falling in your eyes and mouth every time you move.
Ok cool, and thanx.i wasn't sure if there was a certain procedure that was going to require clearance or access that couldn't be achieved with it still connected underneath. 👍
The reason most people say to remove the axle is because, unless you have a lift, it is a lot easier to to set the ring and pinion not laying on your back with crap falling in your eyes and mouth every time you move.
Ok cool, and thanx.i wasn't sure if there was a certain procedure that was going to require clearance or access that couldn't be achieved with it still connected underneath. 👍
Ok I picked up a rear axle at a local recycling yard. It's a 99 with 3.73 10.5" non-limited slip. I'm trying to find out what the numbers mean on the housing itself cast into the lower left & right sides on the back of the housing itself. The left side is KN21 the right side is 52299??
This axle also has the calipers on opposite sides of each other. Left side is on the front, right side is on the rear.
Ok I picked up a rear axle at a local recycling yard. It's a 99 with 3.73 10.5" non-limited slip. I'm trying to find out what the numbers mean on the housing itself cast into the lower left & right sides on the back of the housing itself. The left side is KN21 the right side is 52299??
This axle also has the calipers on opposite sides of each other. Left side is on the front, right side is on the rear.
Yeah that normal for the 99's to have the calipers like that. It was an attempt to get by with only one caliper for both sides. It was short-lived because of warranty claims for rock strikes on calipers. Personally I've never had any trouble out of them on my 99 and it lives a hard life in the oilfield. Look at it this way, you only have to keep one spare.
As for your numbers, I'll have to check. The 52299 might just be a date code.
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