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I'd be happy with a Delphi Quadrasteer like they used in GM trucks back in '02-'05.
Ok, I just got the axles swapped out and of course I wait till I get home to look at it and such because I didn't have the opportunity to there it's not a Hands-On kind of salvage place they do all the colon and stuff.
This tag reads 3 73 10 5 8J15. So this rear and is a 98 and it came out of a 99 truck which either tells me this was made in the end of 98 or not sure if had a rear axle swapped out already grrr. Will a 98 rear end work just fine or not in my 2000? please help thanks
I'd be happy with a Delphi Quadrasteer like they used in GM trucks back in '02-'05.
Ok, I just got the axles swapped out and of course I wait till I get home to look at it and such because I didn't have the opportunity to there it's not a Hands-On kind of salvage place they do all the colon and stuff.
This tag reads 3 73 10 5 8J15. So this rear and is a 98 and it came out of a 99 truck which either tells me this was made in the end of 98 or not sure if had a rear axle swapped out already grrr. Will a 98 rear end work just fine or not in my 2000? please help thanks
It's a 10.5 with 3.73's. It's just an early 99, the only real difference I'm aware of would be the caliper you're already aware of and possibly the lug studs will be different. If your truck already has coarse thread studs then there'll be no difference. If it checks out mechanically then run it.
It's a 10.5 with 3.73's. It's just an early 99, the only real difference I'm aware of would be the caliper you're already aware of and possibly the lug studs will be different. If your truck already has coarse thread studs then there'll be no difference. If it checks out mechanically then run it.
Sweet!! Thanx. It does have the opposing ended calipers but that shouldn't affect the fitment of my wheels, I hope not. My wheels do fit as I've already had them on there but that's without the rotors and calipers also. The diff cover that was on this one was questionable looking because it had so much surface rust on it. However, when I removed it I was very pleasantly surprised with how new looking the differential appears. I'm going to attach some pics but not with this, I'll follow up because last time I had a long text written out and then it got deleted when I was trying to upload pics. That'll **** a guy off LOL. My apologies for any mispunctuation because I'm using speak text
I did not expect the inside of the differential cover to look like this. And I promise you the only thing that I did was wiped it out with a clean & dry
microfiber cloth
Can anybody tell by looking at this what make it is if it's a Dana or Sterling?
Most Dana 60's and 70's have 10 bolt covers, except some Dodge units on later models have 12. You can count the pinion splines. If it's a Dana it will have the size cast in the housing. My money is on it being a Sterling, but honestly does it matter? If it was under a 99 it will go under your 00. From there the only concern is are the gears 3.73's. From the look of it no one has had that cover off since it was assembled at the factory. So if he tag says it's 3.73's then it's a good bet they are 3.73's. the only other thing that could throw a wrench in the works is the pinion yoke. Not all SD's had 1410 u joints. Not even all 7.3 equipped trucks have 1410's, hell I don't know if you've got 1410's. Anyway my point is if the yoke on the donor doesn't match the joint on your driveshaft then you'll need to swap your yoke to the replacement axle. If the replacement axle isn't a Sterling then it won't fit, but again my money is on Sterling.
Update: I finished my rear end swap yesterday evening just after 8pm. I filled the differential fluid(Valvoline 75w140 full synthetic oil. I took it for a drive and everything was great. I've been driving it a bit more today and all is still great.
I want to thank you ALL for your input in answering my questions, offering your own knowledge so THANK YOU. I appreciate you.
Good on you for coming back to provide closure. Not enough people do this.
It's the least that I can do for the valuable knowledge and advice that y'all are generous enough to share.
I've fallen short before by neglecting to take the time to thank everyone and provide the results of my repair/replacement
I do have one more follow-up question. I do a lot of driving in wet road conditions and snow and ice etc during the winter in either or both, Washington state and Montana. If I decide that I prefer the Limited Slip differential better and therefore I wanted to swap out with my original rear end, is it possible/doable, to use the ring gear & pinion that are in my current differential, and install them into my original rear end, meaning removing the ring gear with the 2 broken teeth and replacing it with the ring gear from another differential, as long as their both Ford 10.5" ring gears and the pinion mated to it is installed also? I'm hoping to purchase a "new" ring gear & pinion for my original rear end FYI. I'm just curious if this is possible. I'm just trying to learn more about the way these things work. Thanx again for your time and knowledge
No you're thinking of a spool. Those install on place of the side and spider gears. There are clutch plates that install between the 2 halves which lets the differential slip when cornering.
