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This goes back to my very first comment on this thread to use an "IV Fuel Tank". In other words, find some small tank you can mount higher than the carburetor and gravity feed fresh clean gasoline to prove the engine runs etc before investing in chasing down fuel problems such as dirty tank, dried out fuel pump, lines that won't suck fuel and so on.
This goes back to my very first comment on this thread to use an "IV Fuel Tank". In other words, find some small tank you can mount higher than the carburetor and gravity feed fresh clean gasoline to prove the engine runs etc before investing in chasing down fuel problems such as dirty tank, dried out fuel pump, lines that won't suck fuel and so on.
Yup with you on that. I need to get an electric fuel pump eventually I am gathering.
Not necessarily... the mechanical pump can be revived/rebuilt and there is nothing really wrong with them. It's just that some less familiar think electric is some magic panacea. My fleet runs stock style mechanical fuel pumps.
There are many many types of solenoids. Generally all have a power in (from battery), power out (to the starter), and a trigger (crank signal from the ignition switch). Where things differ is the run signaling. Early Ford stock setup is looking for a completed ground as the trigger signal. Later Ford styles are looking for a hot signal. But it gets even more complex than that. Some have two small terminals that can be used for the trigger circuit, each requiring a ground and a hot. Some also have two small terminals, but one is a trigger, the other goes to the coil to give resistance bypass for spark on startup. There can be variations from these as well. Once we know what solenoid you have, we can then begin to figure out the rest. See if there is a part number or something. Lots of pictures could help too. Also, in your situation, we need to know 6V or 12V.
From your last picture there, it looks like you probably have a more modern starter solenoid. The two big fat wires are battery and starter, The red wire is the crank signal, probably power trigger. The Yellow wire is the I terminal and is an ignition resistor bypass. Most 12V coils are internally resisted, but yours specifically calls out to be externally resisted. The green wire going to the resistor should be the "run" position of the key.
One won't regret heavier gauge battery cables. There is no telling how old and crunchy/corroded the existing ones are and so it is always recommended to start with new to eliminate any frustrations.
Can someone post a picture of there wiring in the engine. I would like to see what it should look like and try and clean up my wiring. I found this in the paper work that came with the truck.
Your truck is going to be somewhat unique being a factory inline 6 with a V8 installed and a 12V conversion. While there are generalities, nobody is going to have an exact picture clone of your setup and components.
If you were stock 6V, you would have these:
Now, your truck definitely is NOT wired like the above. We did go over your starting circuit earlier, and similar can be done for others. Let's take it bit by bit instead of all the wiring all at once.
The picture you just posted for reference is of a 6V Positive Ground 6 Cylinder setup with Ford Type B generator charging system. Your setup is different in every way.
As for the hand written diagram, it seems to loosely line up with what I have seen of your truck. They also included these diagrams too for you?
Those of course are 6V Positive Ground diagrams, but can be a basis for adapting a conversation to 12V negative ground.
