The only thing worse than turning over a dry engine, is having a half-cup of oil spraying out of each of the spark plug holes.
The usual recommendation is a teaspoon in each cylinder. Let it sit overnight, then turn over by hand a few revolutions with spark plugs out. If it turns freely, then use the starter to spin it (still with plugs out).

 

I'm done here I guess...I said let it sit and soak...unless the thing is seized up, its going to make it's way past the rings and down to the underside of the cylinder and piston and into the oil pan. And you can always clean up a little oil.

 

Hey Guys. I really love all the replies. Please keep them comming even if there is a difference of opinions. I have already learned a lot.

Today: I sprayed all the plugs with PB Blaster.

TMW: I am going to plug all the plugs and inspect them. I am also going to pure some Mystery Oil in all the cylinders and let them sit over night.

Monday: I am going to attempt to turn the engine by hand.

Question:
1. Drain and add fresh oil??
2. Do I need to remove the belt before I hand turn the engine?

 

I removed the spark plugs rusted and dirty. What plugs should I purchase to replace?

 

Autolite 216
Champion H-10

 

Pulled all plugs. Added Mystery Oil to all cylinders. Was able to hand turn the engine about 20 times pretty easily. Draining oil now and going to add new oil, spark plugs, and oil filter.

It needs an air filter. Is there something I can get locally or do I need to get it on line? I am not looking for anything fancy.

Thank you again for all the help.

 

As for the actual cleaner housing, be aware that there are two predominant mounting styles - the passenger vehicle style and the truck style. You have the truck style which uses a v channel type clamp.

You will need a gasket, 7RT-9654, which is 3.10" OD, 2.62" ID. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225840225172

As for the air cleaner housing, it is 7RT-9600-C. Be sure it comes with the clamp.

I'm afraid most aftermarket air cleaners I come across do not accommodate the truck clamping style, only the car straight style. You'll likely need to find a used original truck style air cleaner assembly, or swap your carburetor top section for a car style top section. If you try to swap the whole carburetor, then you need to consider all the linkage changes for the throttles, choke and such.

 

Any chance it has an electric fuel pump? It doesn’t look like the carburetor is connected to the mechanical pump on the back of the intake. It looks like it’s connected to the fuel line coming from the tank.

If so, and it doesn’t get gas when you get ready to start it, you might check to see that the pump is running.

 

I believe it is contacted directly to fuel line.

 

There is probably an aftermarket inline fuel pump under the truck. The carburetor itself won't pull fuel from the tank. You will also need to be on the lookout for fuel pump shutoff safety wiring which commonly is connected to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid AND an oil pressure switch (albeit there are other safety methods that could be utilized).

 

Here are some pictures. The fuel filter was in a box of parts I have. It looks like there is another original fuel filter in there.

.

 

So there was no "original" fuel filter in these trucks besides the customary sediment bowl setup on the fuel pump.

If you follow the fuel line from your aftermarket filter down the firewall and under the truck, I'd expect you will find an electric fuel pump.

 

Does it make sense that the modern fuel filter I showed was used contacted to the two hoses shown?

 

Yes, provided there is a fuel pump under the truck as previously described.

 

I do not see a fuel pump under the truck. But to be honest I do not know exactly what I am looking for. The steel line from fuel tank runs until it is spliced to a rubber hose up to the engine where it is again cut.



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