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That would be right in the middle of a coolant port on the block, so someone may have drilled and tapped a hole for a temperature gauge. I bet the chrome part is just a slip-on cap over a hex head bolt.
I am off today so I was surfing the net with all the great videos on F1s on youtube, "Will it start?" and "total refurbs". I know I am jumping ahead but I would like to put a wood liner in the truck bed. The bed panels, tailgate are pretty rough. I see you can buy a "Brand New" truck bed, panels, rails, tailgate online. Thoughts on the condition of that for my truck apposed to having someone repair the rusted out places.
My 2c, fwiw, is buying a new bed will be some of the best money you can spend on your truck. For a couple of grand, basically half of the bodywork on your truck is done. You can't buy the materials to get your old parts to the condition new metal is, let alone the massive amount of labor involved in rust repair, hammer and dolly work on both sides of the sides, filler and block sanding both sides of the sides, priming and block sanding over and over again both sides of the sides, arrrrgghhh. Do I need to say more...?
The bed ad says kit, and the subframe rails are sold separately, so I would say yes, there is going to be welding involved with these parts shown. I have seen complete assemblies sold, but that, obviously, will increase the price of the part and the shipping. It's still well worth it especially if you don't have the talent or equipment to assemble the kit. https://www.ecklers.com/1948-50-ford...8-66102-1.html
The bed ad says kit, and the subframe rails are sold separately, so I would say yes, there is going to be welding involved with these parts shown. I have seen complete assemblies sold, but that, obviously, will increase the price of the part and the shipping. It's still well worth it especially if you don't have the talent or equipment to assemble the kit. https://www.ecklers.com/1948-50-ford...8-66102-1.html
That is a good starting point. There should also be a power wire somewhere to the key switch which is on your hand written paper diagram.
Going through old threads:
8 cyl negative ground 12V with a generator.
@bmoran4 The "power wire" you mentioned last year missing from my photo of the wires. Would that come from the battery terminal on the solenoid to the ignition switch? Or do I not need that with the new Fuse Panel?
Also, should the battery connect directly to the B Terminal on the Regulator?
Last edited by red21sweep; Jan 20, 2026 at 09:16 AM.
