Any tips on getting the rear drums off my '69 f-100? My sources talk about (three) retaining nuts, but I can't find them. I've done this before and should remember...I know backing off the brake adjuster helps, but I need more help! Also, this truck has a history of frying rear bearings(the main reason for drum removal). Anyone else have this problem with bearings or do I just carry too much weight...I didn't think I did?

Thanks, Joe

 

Those three "nots" were just little flat pieces or sheetmetal tha pushed over the studs. Although you can still buy them hardly no one puts them back on. You have to destroy them to get them off. Dord 9 inch rear ends are notorious for the drum friezing or rusting to the axle and I have fought some battles with them. If you have a torch you may try heat around the center. Sometimes just pounding around the center will do it but put the lugnuts partly on to protect the threads on the studs and one errant blow may ruin the threads on a stud. If you have patience use a good penetrant and pounding. It may take a while if they are stubborn. I have had good luck with my air chisel with that round blunt end in it. Before you start off with the drum you may also want to file the axle center protrusion. If it is rusty the drum will still come off hard after it gets unstuck.

 

I was fairly sure WD40 and elbow grease were the answer(and heat maybe). I'll try again when the rain stops. Thanks Willowbilly...what about the rear bearing failure. It seems too often and something is grinding again...I suspect the bearingsl

Joe

 

Hmm, the only thing I can think of that would cause premature faiure would be some sort of misalignment or lack of lubrication, unless you routinely and grossly overload the pickup. When I was a kid my uncle had a mid 60s F-100 that they hauled a slide in camper in. He would have to get new wheel bearings a couple times on a trip from California to South Dakota and back, but had no problems without the camper on.

 

One side failed when I was moving, towing and hauling alot. The other side failed dramatically taking the axle out to the hubcap off on the highway...cool sparks! It didn't seem to have anything to do with weight though. I hope the grinding isn't more serious. It gets worse when I go uphill, especially when gear is too high and rpms too low.

Joe

 

aoldford,
What rearend is in the truck?

 

The stamp on the door says 17 (3.25 ...my 67 shop manual adds 3.3M with a subnote "pounds capacity in thousands"...can you tell me what that part means?). I know from past axle pullings that the bearings are sealed and pressed on (or in my case once pounded on with a pipe and a sledgehammer) with a retaining ring and there are 28 splines on each axle. Hope thats more than enough info...why did you want to know? Also, there is this clicking once on takeoff sometimes that sounds like u-joints going, but I can't move any u-joints by hand...could there be a more sinister source of this sound?

Joe

 

U-joints can click or chirp without being loose. It is when they are very dry and the needles have rusted. They still would need replaced at this point. That may or may not be the problem.

 

Thanks. Replacement is due and I carry new u-joints with me at all times.

 

As for removing the drums, I am working on one myself right now. One side wasn't too bad, adjust the starwheel so that it's loose, I use a screwdriver between the backing plate and the drum to pry it out just a little. If the hub is rusted to the axle, towards the center, the hub will flex a little, allowing you to get some penetrant (PB Blaster) into the holes around the lugs.

Let it sit a day or two, heat it around the center with a propane torch, whack it with a hammer while prying on the big screwdriver, and eventually it will pop off.

 

Thanks all for not making me feel too stupid for not being able to take a drum off. I appreciate the tips. Shot both sides full of WD40...will pick up project next weather break. It does tend to rain a bit here in Oregon...probably why the drums are rusted to the axles.

rlh...still wondering why asking about the rear end

anyone...re axle code: if a rear axle 17 is 3.25 gear ratio and the rating is 3.3M, does that mean 3300 lbs is the max weight the axle will handle...is the suspension rated seperately(oops, another thread)?

 

Cause I had a 70 F100 SWB with a Dana with ls rearend and the drums came off with much problems and the axles had about 4 bolts holding it in. The axles came out so easy. Makes me hate my 8.8. My point is all those F100s didn't come with the same rearend and you can't always go by the door plate/firewall plate in a truck that old either...that's all.

 

I took one of the rear drums off my 67 f100 this afternoon - took about half an hour. I used some penetrating oil around the lugnuts, let it soak in, and then put a block of wood behind the rim of the drum that protrudes above the backing plate (about a 1/4") and whacked at that at several points. Eventually it loosened up.

I don't have much experience with this, but I read something that said you shouldn't use a screwdriver to pry between the drum and the backing plate as you can bend the backing plate. That's why I used the block of wood. Others probably know if that's really something you should be concerned about, but I thought I'd mention it.

 

rlh...yeah this one has 4 bolts(when I get to them) and the axles always come out easy. Why would I have reason to think the rear end doesn't match the door code, everything else seems to?

Joe

 

Don't forget that some pounding with a hammer really helps that penetrant get in there. WD-40 will dry out in a short time so reapply it often and always give the area a few good raps when you do.